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Originally Posted by baltimoretrainworks:

I picked up a blank  Williams shell on Ebay a few months ago with the idea to do this very same thing. What held me up was should I do it like you did a single warbonnet or do a double warbonnet paint job. Looks pretty cool, just wait til Lee Willis sees it!

 

Jerry

That's exactly what I was about to post -- I thought at first glance that this had to be a Lee Willis article.  Not to take anything away from brwebster's beautiful work, but personally, I think the double-ended nature of the GG1 almost requires a dual warbonnet scheme.

 

Last edited by Balshis

Wow.  I love it - for a host of reasons!  First, Warbonnet looks fantastic on just about anything, and particuarly here, where it improves the looks of the always sleek GG1. I particularly like how you interpreted  Warbonnet's non-symmetrical design front to back onto Loewy's symmetrical shape. It it quite striking.

 

Second, because I also love repainting great eastern-railway locos into even greater western-US locos, as with the two below, I know how difficult this paint job was.  warbonnet is as difficult as any re-paint scheme I have seen.  I repainted a scale GG1 olive drab, and in a simple military graphics scheme, for photos in the Veranda Turbine book, but I never did anything scheme so difficult on such a complicated shape.  Extremely well executed.  Just superb!

 

Third, I love the whole idea of striking out in a new direction, particularly against the current.  This is one of my favorites!  Just fantastic.

 

Below: N&W J in UP Greyhound, ATSF's never-built, late-'40s, 6-4-4-4 "Super Steam-Liner' (formerly a TMCC T-1).

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Last edited by Lee Willis

The war bonnet is one of the best looking if not THE best looking diesel paint schemes ever.  It looks fantastic in SF and D&H colors, on Es, Fs and sharks, even modern engines.

 

The GG1 is one of the best looking if not THE best looking locomotive ever, but as far as its paint scheme, Raymond Loewy had it right.

 

As much work as you must have put in to this and as much as I have tried to like it, I just can’t.  But I will have to agree with Brian, George and Dave...It DOES look better than PC or Amtrak black.

 

Bob

Originally Posted by G3750:

OK, Terry, Matt, Lee, Josef, Elliot, Rusty - I just want to let you know that you're all going straight to train **** for those thoughts.   There you will be sentenced to playing with broken wind-up and wooden trains. 

 

 

Well, at least the warbonnet paint scheme is better than anything painted for Penn Central.

 

George

What's Penn Central?

Thanks to all of you....even those who lost their cookies.  Half the fun was knowing the results would produce surprise, controversy and maybe a tiny bit of offense.  A casual look around the net showed GG1's in Great Northern, Milwaukee and New Haven but thankfully I never found one in warbonnet paint.  Had there been 2, A unit decal sets on hand then it might have gotten the double end treatment.  The extras in the set for E's and B units were certainly needed for the wrap around stripe.  If only the GG1 had no right hand grills I would have positioned the flying Indian head logos there.  Paint is Dupli-color lacquers and I borrowed the pair of pants off my MTH GG1... they snap right on the Williams shell perfectly.  I really need to find the rest of a Williams GG1 though.  The plan is to continue the overall SF effect by painting the side frames, pilots and all silver.

 

Bruce

 

 

Last edited by brwebster

As I said earlier, I love the Warbonnet GG1!

 

And I have been thinking.  After F does come G, and a bit later comes J.

 

A Warbonnet N&W J?!!  Now that would be even more spectacular than a UP Greyhound J, because one the the fundamental truths of this universe is that anything looks better in Warbonnet, right?  See what I mean, below.

 

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/warbonnet-brick

 

Originally Posted by SantaFeJim:

Can somebody please tell me the best way to rinse vomit out of a keyboard. 

It would help if you provided the make and model number at least.  See this post.  https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...-help-please-do-this

 

But here goes anyway.  This will work for some, but not all keyboards, depending on the model.

 

If you feel comfortable with disassembly, turn it upside down and see if there are some Philips head screws.  If so, remove them.  Take a photo that shows the location of the keys as you will be removing them later.  Then carefully undo the top keyboard case from the bottom.  There are probably some tabs that need to be pried apart CAREFULLY.  Remove the keys AFTER taking a photo so you can put them back in the correct position. There should be a flexible plastic membrane between the keys and the electronics that can be removed and cleaned.  Remove the membrane.  Clean the membrane, the keys and the top of the keyboard using a water / dishwashing detergent solution.  At this point the…uh…contaminant may be somewhat difficult to remove so a thorough soaking followed by scrubbing may be required.  Let the keys and membrane air dry.  Blowing compressed air on them will help the drying process.  When they are dry, reassemble in the reverse order using the photo to locate the keys correctly.  Test to make sure the keys are all in the correct location.

 

If you are not comfortable with disassembly, it might be best just to purchase a new keyboard.  They are fairly reasonably priced.

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