Atlas 0-6-0 smoke not working

If this is the original Seuthe unit, it may have just failed.  They're not terribly robust.

How do you like this locomotive?  I've been searching for the UP version and would be interested to hear your opinion of it.

John,

How can I tell if it is a Seuthe unit? What brand do you recommend I replace it with? Can I use a Lionel with a fan, if so any suggestions as to which one?

Thanks,

RAY

To 86TA355SR,

My opinion of this engine - FANTASTIC!

I model the CB&Q, the detail is excellent, the control is excellent, the sound is excellent, it is a hardy engine that should pull many cars. I had it on our club layout pulling 8 or 10 cars last months. No problem, we do not have any inclines. 

Now I just need to get the smoke working.

Would I buy it again - you bet I would. In fact, I would like to get another some day.

RAY

Peek down the stack, if it's a Seuthe unit, you'll see a post in the center.

Personally, I use MTH smoke units in many upgrades, sometimes I use Lionel ones as well.  Obviously, if I'm doing an upgrade, it's a fan driven smoke unit that goes in.

There will be some work to using a fan driven smoke unit, first off is fitting it into the locomotive since this is a smaller unit.  You'd also have to deal with wiring it up, it doesn't use the same 6 volts the Seuthe does.

John,

Have not looked into the stack yet, I'm away until later tonight. You said you prefer MTH smoke units. Are all the MTH units with a fan? I really don't want to "make room" for a fan smoke unit, and also worry about the 6 volts. 

So can I get a 6 volt standard smoke unit, if in fact the one I have is a Seuthe and is shot?

Thanks, John for your help on this and other issues I have posted in the past.

RAY

First step would be to remove the shell and see if there's anything amiss with the wiring.  You can also check to see if the smoke unit is actually getting power.  Pictures would help us know exactly what you have.

Ray,

Thanks!  

They're hard to find.  I did see on the bay, but it was more than what I wanted to pay for one.  I'm bookmarking your thread so if I do find one, I'll know how to fix the smoke unit.

John,

There is a post in the center of the stack. Will start removing the shell in the next day or two and post some photos for you to look at.

Different subject. I started out with DCS over 3 years ago, and about 6 months ago installed a Legacy base with a Cab 2. Everything works well. However, I have a question regarding conventional engines.

I know I can set the TIU to Variable Track Voltage and use the MTH remote to operate conventional engines. Is there a way to use the Cab 2 to run conventional engines? I have searched the manual and Lionel web site and have can not find any reference using Legacy for conventional engines. I haven't seen anything on how to use a Cab1 with conventional engines either. I also have a TMCC base with a Cab1, not hooked up. 

I have some seuthe unit if you need them.  Is this Atlas a TMCC engine?  I am surprised the smoke switch is at the tender.  Normally the smoke switch is at the engine for Lionel, TMCC, and Seuthe units.

To run conventional with Legacy or TMCC you need a Power Master that varies the voltage to the track.  G

Ray,

As G stated, you need to buy a Legacy Power Master to run conventional using the Legacy CAB2.  The Power Master needs to be installed between the transformer and track just like the TIU, and requires a special plug from the transformer (like the one on a Power house 180).  If you are currently running all your track power through the variable channels of the TIU, I'd just stay with the DCS system for conventional to keep things less complicated.

FYI:  Because I'm experimenting with the Lionel's Layout Control System, I run all my track power through Power Masters and TPCs.  My TIUs are set up in passive mode where track power does not run through the TIU.  The TIUs are connected sort of like the Legacy base; do a search for passive mode. 

GGG,

Here is a photo of the tender with all the control switches, including the smoke ON/OFF switch.

I have not yet been able to remove the boiler from the frame. I removed the 2 main screws from under the cab and the single screw from behind the front coupler, but the frame will not release.

The back of the frame is loose, but something is still holding the front of the frame to the boiler, and I can not figure out what it is. I did send an email off to Atlas for help.

As for the Seuthe smoke units you have, how much and are they new or used? I would be interested in getting one once I remove the boiler. 

RAY

GGG and Gunrunnerjohn,

I received an email from Bill Serratelli of Atlas trains. He said that removing the boiler is very tricky and he is right.

The front is a tight shoe fit but I did manage to loosen it up. However, the rear where the motor and wires are located, although loose, are even a tighter fit. I am afraid if I force the removal, either something will give or it will be next to impossible to reassemble. So I decided to leave the boiler as is and not attempt to replace the smoke unit. 

However, Bill said I should first try to reprogram the R2LC, that that may be the thing that is causing the unit not to smoke.

So, how does one reprogram the R2LC? Do I need to hook up it up to a computer or is there an easier way to do that?

RAY

Disassembly of a lot of models is somewhat tricky, but it's not rocket science.

STEP 1: Move switch on locomotive from run to program.
STEP 2: Turn on Command Base.
STEP 3: Place locomotive on track, then turn on power to track.
STEP 4: Press “ENG” then input locomotive ID#. Press “SET”.
STEP 5: Press ”ENG” then input locomotive ID# again.
STEP 6: Press “AUX 1”, 4 for this locomotive.

STEP 7: Turn off power to track, wait ten seconds.
STEP 8: Remove locomotive from track, move switch from program to run.
STEP 9: Place locomotive back on track. Turn power on to track.
STEP 10: Press “ENG” and ID#, then operate as normal.

I am surprise a seuthe unit with TAS.  Since this looks like a TMCC TAS set up. 

The back of your instructions should have the Reset procedure and # to use.  John gave you the instructions with the generic steam #.  I would use the one in the instruction if different. 

If that doesn't fix it you would be best to get one from ATLAS.  Not sure if they are a different voltage.  Ultimately you might need to get the shell off if the reset doesn't work.  G