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Wings on guardrails and frogs shortened and positioned to American practice

Cast frog heights that match approach rail height

Positive electrical connection of feeder tabs to frog (existing ones sometimes fail)

Plastic in gaps to assure an insulated frog

redesigned rail joiners that grip the rail's web for positive alignment

 

and has been mentioned - stronger throw bars

 

With 60+ years of model railroad experience - there should be no excuse for AtlasO track being anything other than reliable and prototype looking.  

 

Ed Rappe

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Keystoned Ed

I know this won't go over well, but I actually wish they would loosen the tolerances a bit so that we could run MTH Proto 3/2 Hi-Rail steam through them. That would open up a lot more options for motive power. Old head 2 railers wouldn't like it, but if they could be built to allow MTH Hi-Rail and NMRA engines that would be great. Perhaps not possible, but if someone would make a realistic looking (not GG or RCS) 2 rail track system that would allow the 3 rail Hi-Rail crowd to easily switch over to 2 rail we might see more new modelers in 2 rail.  Just a thought.

The old Roco switches would probably handle both.   they have a pretty crude frog and come with an insert to let the flange on 2-rail equipment go through them.   They are about equivalent to a #6.    I have many on my layout and they work fine with 2-rail, but some equipment will bump over the wide frog.

 

these are not the same as the ones imported by Altas that were 24 inch radius.   These came in 2 pieces with railjoiners connecting them.    I don't know if they are still available in the states or even in Europe.  

 

They were quite common for awhile and are actually DCC friendly and have plastic insulated frogs.   

I think the frog may be ok.   I really don't know.   But the guard rails look over long and silly.    Also the rail heads on all the Atlas track look very wide.    It does not have the slender look of scale rail.   It looks more like 3-rail tinplate track without the center rail.

 

I don't have any Atlas switches, so I never noticed that the frog may be at a different height than running rails as mentioned above.    That would be a very big issue for me.   

Originally Posted by prr: "I never noticed that the frog may be at a different height than running rails as mentioned above".
 
Correction:  
 
The rail height difference is with the lower code 138 guard rails against the outside code 148 stock rails. 
 
 
Below is a photo of a pair of Atlas 7.5 turnouts. 
 
The lower photo is a factory finished product.
 
The upper photo is shows what you can achieve when you cut back the frog wing rails to a prototypical length and replace the lower height / over long guard rails with a pair of Lou Cross' code 148 guard rails.
 
The frog is left in place through out the resizing.
 
Not being a techno rivet counter I simply placed a Right Of Way #8 frog over the Atlas frog.  Aligned the frog point, marked the ROW wing rail ends and fired up the Dremel. 
 
If you look closely at the tie base you will see the wing rails were shortened four tie spaces.
 
A side benefit is that with the correct length wing rails you now have clear access to address the too close rail joints.
 

 

Atlas 7.5

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  • Atlas 7.5
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed:

I know this won't go over well, but I actually wish they would loosen the tolerances a bit so that we could run MTH Proto 3/2 Hi-Rail steam through them. That would open up a lot more options for motive power. Old head 2 railers wouldn't like it, but if they could be built to allow MTH Hi-Rail and NMRA engines that would be great. Perhaps not possible, but if someone would make a realistic looking (not GG or RCS) 2 rail track system that would allow the 3 rail Hi-Rail crowd to easily switch over to 2 rail we might see more new modelers in 2 rail.  Just a thought.

Please don't blame Atlas (or anyone else) for MTH's disregard for NMRA Specs in 1/48.  It's something they cannot do in other scales.  I heard a rumor a few years ago that one of the reasons why Lionel is so adamant about not doing anything in 2-rail is some past feud between Lionel (or someone at Lionel) and the NMRA.

ncng,

 

If you need excellent curved turnouts call Brad Strong, 801 area code 884.6354.

 

Several of us have been getting his custom curved turnouts over the last year

 

I have installed many of his custom curved turnouts of any radius.  They are CAD based and perform flawlessly.  60"/72",  72"/84", half curved / half straight, any radii.  He even presolders 18 gauge drops in what ever color code needed.

 

All points share polarity with their stock rail.

 

He will be making special industrial turnouts for me with an slight "S" curve for a tight run a round spot.

 

This pair is 62"72"

60 72 Strong curved switches 002

 

This Brad Strong turnout is a 72"/84"

 

72_84_Left_Hand

 

This is Brad's 90"/108"

 

108 90 Right Hand

He usually delivers in a few weeks.  Regular #6 is about $74.  Any curved turnout is $124.  Best recent product in 0 scale track work IMO. tt

 

 

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Images (3)
  • 60 72 Strong curved switches 002
  • 72_84_Left_Hand
  • 108 90 Right Hand
Last edited by Tom Tee
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed:

I know this won't go over well, but I actually wish they would loosen the tolerances a bit so that we could run MTH Proto 3/2 Hi-Rail steam through them. That would open up a lot more options for motive power. Old head 2 railers wouldn't like it, but if they could be built to allow MTH Hi-Rail and NMRA engines that would be great. Perhaps not possible, but if someone would make a realistic looking (not GG or RCS) 2 rail track system that would allow the 3 rail Hi-Rail crowd to easily switch over to 2 rail we might see more new modelers in 2 rail.  Just a thought.

The answer here is to buy actual 2 rail equipment.........or maybe ask Mike to make you some track.

 

Simon

Originally Posted by Simon Winter:
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed:

I know this won't go over well, but I actually wish they would loosen the tolerances a bit so that we could run MTH Proto 3/2 Hi-Rail steam through them. That would open up a lot more options for motive power. Old head 2 railers wouldn't like it, but if they could be built to allow MTH Hi-Rail and NMRA engines that would be great. Perhaps not possible, but if someone would make a realistic looking (not GG or RCS) 2 rail track system that would allow the 3 rail Hi-Rail crowd to easily switch over to 2 rail we might see more new modelers in 2 rail.  Just a thought.

The answer here is to buy actual 2 rail equipment.........or maybe ask Mike to make you some track.

 

Simon

Unfortunately, there is less and less 2R equipment being made. I'm sick of MTH canceling scale-wheel versions of models I like so I quit ordering them. Trust me, I have pleaded with MTH to build their Hi-Rail models with code .172 tread and NMRA spec gauging. But they don't seem to care. Ironically, if they would build them like that then they truly would operate on 2 or 3 rail track.

 

Sorry to get off topic.

Last edited by jonnyspeed
Thanks Tom Tee,
 
At this point I have rebuilt all of mine and they are as good as they have ever been, however if I need more those Brad Strong one look beautiful! Wow!
 
ncng
 
Originally Posted by Tom Tee:

ncng,

 

If you need excellent curved turnouts call Brad Strong, 801 area code 884.6354.

 

Several of us have been getting his custom curved turnouts over the last year

 

I have installed many of his custom curved turnouts of any radius.  They are CAD based and perform flawlessly.  60"/72",  72"/84", half curved / half straight, any radii.  He even presolders 18 gauge drops in what ever color code needed.

 

All points share polarity with their stock rail.

 

He will be making special industrial turnouts for me with an slight "S" curve for a tight run a round spot.

 

This pair is 62"72"

60 72 Strong curved switches 002

 

This Brad Strong turnout is a 72"/84"

 

72_84_Left_Hand

 

This is Brad's 90"/108"

 

108 90 Right Hand

He usually delivers in a few weeks.  Regular #6 is about $74.  Any curved turnout is $124.  Best recent product in 0 scale track work IMO. tt

 

 

 

As I look around my layout with about 35 pieces of motive power, steam and diesel, the makers are listed below, MTH is a 3 rail maker in my opinion.
 
Rivarossi = 2 (rebuilt)
Old Atlas/Roco = 2 (rebuilt)
Brass = 9, various makers
Atlas O = 14
3rd Rail Sunset = 8
MTH = 1 (E6 A-B-A set)
 
ncng
 
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed:
Originally Posted by Simon Winter:
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed:

I know this won't go over well, but I actually wish they would loosen the tolerances a bit so that we could run MTH Proto 3/2 Hi-Rail steam through them. That would open up a lot more options for motive power. Old head 2 railers wouldn't like it, but if they could be built to allow MTH Hi-Rail and NMRA engines that would be great. Perhaps not possible, but if someone would make a realistic looking (not GG or RCS) 2 rail track system that would allow the 3 rail Hi-Rail crowd to easily switch over to 2 rail we might see more new modelers in 2 rail.  Just a thought.

The answer here is to buy actual 2 rail equipment.........or maybe ask Mike to make you some track.

 

Simon

Unfortunately, there is less and less 2R equipment being made. I'm sick of MTH canceling scale-wheel versions of models I like so I quit ordering them. Trust me, I have pleaded with MTH to build their Hi-Rail models with code .172 tread and NMRA spec gauging. But they don't seem to care. Ironically, if they would build them like that then they truly would operate on 2 or 3 rail track.

 

Sorry to get off topic.

 

Tom, Those switches look fantastic! Does Brad have email as well?  If so, Can you send a PM with his email address?
 
Originally Posted by Tom Tee:

ncng,

 

If you need excellent curved turnouts call Brad Strong, 801 area code 884.6354.

 

Several of us have been getting his custom curved turnouts over the last year

 

I have installed many of his custom curved turnouts of any radius.  They are CAD based and perform flawlessly.  60"/72",  72"/84", half curved / half straight, any radii.  He even presolders 18 gauge drops in what ever color code needed.

 

All points share polarity with their stock rail.

 

He will be making special industrial turnouts for me with an slight "S" curve for a tight run a round spot.

 

This pair is 62"72"

60 72 Strong curved switches 002

 

This Brad Strong turnout is a 72"/84"

 

72_84_Left_Hand

 

This is Brad's 90"/108"

 

108 90 Right Hand

He usually delivers in a few weeks.  Regular #6 is about $74.  Any curved turnout is $124.  Best recent product in 0 scale track work IMO. tt

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Mike DeBerg:
Tom, Those switches look fantastic! Does Brad have email as well?  If so, Can you send a PM with his email address?
 
Originally Posted by Tom Tee:

ncng,

 

If you need excellent curved turnouts call Brad Strong, 801 area code 884.6354.

 

Several of us have been getting his custom curved turnouts over the last year

 

I have installed many of his custom curved turnouts of any radius.  They are CAD based and perform flawlessly.  60"/72",  72"/84", half curved / half straight, any radii.  He even presolders 18 gauge drops in what ever color code needed.

 

All points share polarity with their stock rail.

 

He will be making special industrial turnouts for me with an slight "S" curve for a tight run a round spot.

 

This pair is 62"72"

60 72 Strong curved switches 002

 

This Brad Strong turnout is a 72"/84"

 

72_84_Left_Hand

 

This is Brad's 90"/108"

 

108 90 Right Hand

He usually delivers in a few weeks.  Regular #6 is about $74.  Any curved turnout is $124.  Best recent product in 0 scale track work IMO. tt

 

 

 

 

Brad built me a code 125 #5 turnout for an industrial area ($70).

 

I'm sorry and wish Atlas well but for ready-built turnouts, I'm using Signature Switch.

 

Even though I lay most of my own switches, I used Brad Strong @ Signature Switch to build this beauty for a critical location requiring perfect operation...he delivered on that need exceptionally well. This is a 49"/49" radius with a slightly altered point alignment per his suggestion based upon my particular need.

 

I'd easily recommend his services to anyone needing a quality switch.

 

Bob

 

 

IMG_2422

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Images (1)
  • IMG_2422
Last edited by flanger
Originally Posted by Enginear-Joe:
 
Lines up Perfectly Joe...this guy is working in CAD and tracks all the details. High end products for sure.
 
Bob

I have all Atlas track and switches. How does the switch from Brad with ME rail line up with Atlas (code 148) ?

 Does the profile match up?

I figure a lot of you guys are using ME track?

 

Hi Joe,
 
For what it's worth I've used both Atlas and ME Code 148 flex track extensively and their profiles are very similar and mate up nicely. I prefer joining them together with ME railjoiners though.
 
John
 
Originally Posted by Enginear-Joe:

I have all Atlas track and switches. How does the switch from Brad with ME rail line up with Atlas (code 148) ?

 Does the profile match up?

I figure a lot of you guys are using ME track?

 

I have a coupla questions for those of you who have used turnouts and other special work that use a mix of copper-clad and conventional [ wood, usually, I imagine ] ties regarding their 'scenic' treatment:

 

1.  How do you handle the difference in appearance when painted, such as the way they might reflect light differently ?  Do you give the copper ties a hand coat of primer or say grimy black first, etc ?  I ask this because I have had some visual problems where plastic and wood, or even different types of plastic, ties are comingled.  Yes, I realize "every tie is different" and I purposely have different tie types, etc, in various locations -- but it's where the ties "shouldn't" be different that gives me the problems.

 

2.  What about the isolating cut on the copper surface ?  Sure, the old "derailment" thing -- but suppose you don't want that look ?

 

Best regards, SZ

From what I can tell the biggest difference between Signature Switch and O Scale Turnouts is that Signature Switch is using all rail and what looks like the Fast Tracks jigs/templates, quick sticks for ties whereas O Scale Turnouts is using rail and castings for the points, frog and guardrails.  The ties on the O Scales Turnouts RL (Ready to Lay) switches also are individual ties vs. the quick sticks approach. 

As far as I know Brad laser cuts 1/4" HDF ties for his turnouts.  I get my turnouts from OScaleTurnouts because I do not want the ties preinstalled.  I'm not sure what Bill uses for ties but in both cases they are glued to the rail.  I like using tie plates so that is not an option.  Bill gets his components from RoW and I think Brad get his from American Switch and Signal.  In my opinion they are both absolutely worth the premium over Atlas turnouts.  The fact that I'm moving over to 4'8.5" gauge is just icing on the cake.

 

Steinzeit,
 
For my track, Atlas O and Old Pullman, plus bridge ties, wood and plastic ties that fill in gaps between flex track-all my track, I rattle can paint it to blend.
 
I start with all frogs and switch points with a gloss grimy black. Then I use brown and grays to paint the rest of track and rails. Then I highlight ties in white at end of sidings for me that tell me max train advance on siding. I do all this with cheap spray paint or brush on paint, then I go around and air brush detailed areas of track and dry brush other areas. The clear coat it all.
 
FYI-I am passionate about painting model railroad track, I have scene to many beautifully built layouts that have unpainted or went-back-later hand painted track that ruins the whole layout in my opinion!
 
ncng
 
Originally Posted by Steinzeit:

I have a coupla questions for those of you who have used turnouts and other special work that use a mix of copper-clad and conventional [ wood, usually, I imagine ] ties regarding their 'scenic' treatment:

 

1.  How do you handle the difference in appearance when painted, such as the way they might reflect light differently ?  Do you give the copper ties a hand coat of primer or say grimy black first, etc ?  I ask this because I have had some visual problems where plastic and wood, or even different types of plastic, ties are comingled.  Yes, I realize "every tie is different" and I purposely have different tie types, etc, in various locations -- but it's where the ties "shouldn't" be different that gives me the problems.

 

2.  What about the isolating cut on the copper surface ?  Sure, the old "derailment" thing -- but suppose you don't want that look ?

 

Best regards, SZ

 

Bill and Brad both make excellent products, both are very responsible "nice guy" business people bringing a sorely needed product to the 0 scale market.  I have used both and would use either again. 

 

One of the deciding things for me was the need for custom curved turnouts.  Working in 0 scale 2 rail I find that most all switches need to be pushed back well into the previous curve.  Standard straight turnouts just require too much real estate in an already too small space.

 

Sidings coming off standard turnouts frequently are forced to be shorter.  Using standard turnouts I am usually surgically altering 1, 2 or all three ends to make it work best.  Time is money either in savings or billing.

Last edited by Tom Tee
Cheap Krylon or like, Gloss, 2 coats usually, then go back will Dull Cote on most of track except greasy areas. Then sand track with sanding block. Try to miss all the guards rails on turnouts, crossings and bridges. Keep first 6-12" of tunnel entrances gloss black to represent creosote. I have used this method in HO, O, On3 and G, hand laid, cheap and expensive track and have never been disappointed. I forgot to mention moss green for little used branch lines or swampy areas of track.
 
ncng
 
Originally Posted by Steinzeit:

ncng, thank you for your post.  That's about the same as my approach -- except I never thought of the clear coat afterwards, which might be the answer to my problem.  What do you use for the clear coat ?

 

Best regards, SZ

 

Originally Posted by jonnyspeed:

 

Unfortunately, there is less and less 2R equipment being made. I'm sick of MTH canceling scale-wheel versions of models I like so I quit ordering them. Trust me, I have pleaded with MTH to build their Hi-Rail models with code .172 tread and NMRA spec gauging. But they don't seem to care. Ironically, if they would build them like that then they truly would operate on 2 or 3 rail track.

 

Sorry to get off topic.

There are TONS of 2R stuff on the secondary market. Almost everything I have in 2R was acquired from secondary sources, including track. Sell the 3R and buy 2R if that is where you want to be. I did it, the only difference being I was in HO. It might take a bit of time, but it can be done......and the great bulk of what I bought from secondary sources was in NEW unused condition. You just have to look.

 

Simon

Last edited by Simon Winter
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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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