Battery removal from a tough spot

Don't leave the old battery. Pull it out to prevent it from leaking and damaging the engine. 

If you're not comfortable taking it out, this is something that your local train store could potentially help you with.  You could also post some pictures of your engine and forum members could help walk you through it as another option. 

Hello H1000

I have a Railking NW-2 diesel switcher and to remove the battery, I just remove 3 screws and fuel tank with the speaker comes out thus the battery comes out too.  Perhaps you can check out the fuel tank of your GP-7 and see if you can take the battery out from the bottom.  When you do this, you might as well replace battery with a J&W BCR2.   I believe the fuel tank is held on the frame by bottom screws of each end of the fuel tank.  Take care to not pull wires or pitch the wires when putting the tank back on. Try that and let us know .

"But the kindness God shows is greater. As the  Scripture says, 'God is against the proud, but he is kind to the humble" James 4:6 ERV (Easy to Read Version)

Tiffany

Excellent suggestion. The tank only holds the speaker and left about a two inch hole to access the bottom of the battery.  Not big enough to remove it and the battery is wedge in a way that it could not be extracted through that hole anyhow.  It brought me to the more destructive option of removing the battery cells one at a time. 

This was a bit tedious but still easier to do than removing the board, wiring, and smoke unit.  I slid the battery cells out one at a time on each side. Cutting the metal connecting strap on the back of the batteries covered by heat shrink was the hardest part.

H1000 posted:

Excellent suggestion. The tank only holds the speaker and left about a two inch hole to access the bottom of the battery.  Not big enough to remove it and the battery is wedge in a way that it could not be extracted through that hole anyhow.  It brought me to the more destructive option of removing the battery cells one at a time. 

This was a bit tedious but still easier to do than removing the board, wiring, and smoke unit.  I slid the battery cells out one at a time on each side. Cutting the metal connecting strap on the back of the batteries covered by heat shrink was the hardest part.

Hello H1000

ok, try this way loosen the board screws just enough to gain even little more play room to take out the dead battery but Don't take the screws out completely.  Then you should be able to take it out but get a J&W BCR2 FIRST so not have to do this again but once.  Just take care to not pull any wires or pitch the wires when doing this.  I hope this helps.  Let us know how this comes out, fingers crossed 

"Your faith has a goal, and you are reaching that goal - your salvation" 1 Peter 1:9 ERV (Easy to Read Version)

Tiffany

You can fit a 3V supercap replacement in a pretty small space, but I agree that you need to remove the battery out.  I "roll my own" by simply using the mating connector and a SuperCap.  Here's mine compared to a pair of AAA batteries.

Color code cross wire makes my eyes hurt

For the PS-1, just unscrew the board bracket and raise slightly.  While it is a pain, less intrusive than cutting a 9V battery through a speaker hole.  G

After analyzing the price of the BCR2 and following GRJ wisdom, I picked up a few Super Caps from Mouser (AVX Supercap - Mouser). Figured I can recycle the connector from the bad battery.

My luck with the BCR2 is not great. I have only two engines with them installed and a few engines that absolutely ran horrible when installed.  Those picky engines got new batteries instead.

H1000

H1000 posted:

After analyzing the price of the BCR2 and following GRJ wisdom, I picked up a few Super Caps from Mouser (AVX Supercap - Mouser). Figured I can recycle the connector from the bad battery.

Just double check the polarity on the connector when you install them.

Yep, the Supercaps worked out pretty good and for the sake of GGG's sanity, I used Brown & Blue wire with Yellow and White heat shrink.