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Hey Guys,

I want to build something on the cheap.

I have on/off toggle switches on my control board, for turning on/off 8 separate power blocks in my track layout.

When I turn a switch on, it would sure be convenient to just see a little 3 inch tower light come-on, out at the track itself,  to confirm to me that there is actually track power running through that particular block.  I would do this by running  power lines directly from the track over to the little tower.

So, I want to make 8 little towers, by myself, for as cheap as possible.

I plan to use standard Lionel 022 switch bulbs.  But where would I get little sockets/bases, either bayonet or screw in, to mount the bulbs in?

Can anybody think a real cheap source for these?

I also considered using old/broken 022 Switch controllers, and just salvaging the two light bulb bases in them. But, I was not sure if the bulbs in those switch controllers are rated for 18 AC volts or not.  Even though the tiny controller wires run out to the powered track switches, I am not sure how much "juice" flows back to the controllers to light those bulbs.

Thanks for any thoughts.   (I have a little MTH green lighted, power lock on, and it works great, but it was really expensive.)

Mannyrock

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Manny

Just a suggestion.  Lionel 22 switch lights add up to serious wattage when hooked up to the track.  That is same issue with Lionel 22 switch lights on Lionel switches.

If you used mini Christmas tree lights, 12volt bulbs, you could use the Christmas Tree light string (as pigtails) wires and sockets and bulb holders all for free is you get a junk Christmas tree light string, any volt.  You may have to buy the 12 bulbs on eBay.  These bulbs are adequate for indicator lights on the layout.  You may find some 12v bulbs in colors or you can color them with a Sharpie or paint if wanted.

I have mini slide switches on my track diagram control panel that indicate to be if power is applied or not to each track section.  No bulbs needed.

Charlie

Last edited by Choo Choo Charlie

Wow Gunnrunner,  now I feel sick!

My eight 022 switches and controllers are drawing 48 watts, just sitting there.   So, my Z-1000 100 watt transformer is suddenly a 52 watt transformer just by turning on the layout!

Guess I'll forget the side light idea, and go see how well two large engines run on my layout simultaneously.

Just when I thought that I was finished with the track and electrical work.  :-(      (I see a trash can in my Z-1000s future.)

Thanks as always.

Mannyrock

Have you ruled out using LEDs instead of an incandescent bulb (plus socket)?

AC LED components

When you buy a pre-wired AC-operable LED or even an AC-operable LED-bulb replacement there are "only" 3 inexpensive components: LED, resistor, diode...maybe 5-10 cents each in small quantities.  It's another one of those you'll pay more for shipping.  The big win is the power will be closer to 1/4 Watt rather than 3 Watts.  LEDs are available in a choice of colors.  Apparently you're willing to do some soldering if considering the bulb sockets.

I don't know what you had in mind for the 3" tower but if cost is the issue, I'd think you could cram all this into a plastic soda straw.

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  • AC LED components
@stan2004 posted:

When you buy a pre-wired AC-operable LED or even an AC-operable LED-bulb replacement there are "only" 3 inexpensive components: LED, resistor, diode... I'd think you could cram all this into a plastic soda straw.

Good suggestion Stan.  Manny, If you don't already have some, ordering 1/16 and 1/8" heat shrink tubing would also be advisable to insulate the LED, diode, and resistor leads.

Last edited by SteveH

If you want inexpensive, Stan's methods above will be very hard to beat (and also fun to do projects, IMO). GRJ's offer for sockets is hard to beat as well (and LED bulbs are available for those sockets, see below).  I always enjoy following GRJ and Stan's posts as I like learning and fiddling with the electronics part of the hobby. None better to learn from that those guys!

For those folks with little interest in the electronics there is Town & Country Hobbies. They have replacement LED bulbs for many of our train items. They also have them in 18 volt versions. In the past, other OGR forum members have used and recommended the T&C LED bulbs.  There is also Autolumination and Superlumination, but these used to be a bit more expensive than Town & Country.  I haven't compared them lately... Then there are also Ebay sellers offering these LED bulbs. I have never tried any from ebay so quality is unknown to me.

There's probably other sources I have missed/forgotten here, but that's a start.

@Windy City posted:

How much are pre-made led bulbs for 022 switches?

How difficult is it to make your own led bulbs?  (how do you handle to bulb base or do you wire it up by-passing the socket?)

See this OGR thread which shows a couple different sources for just the bulb base...albeit the bayonet type.

It frequently comes down to how many you are making, minimum order $, and postage.  The above thread was about the bayonet base style but it stands to reason someone out there is selling "just" the screw-type base for the DIY LED hobbyist...

The LED, diode, and resistor should run you, say, 25 cents in small quantities.

Last edited by stan2004

Thanks Guys,

I am already using LED bulbs in the switch lanterns.  That is why I was wondering what those draw.  If it isn't much, I can just go forth and use LED bulbs.

If the LEDs draw too much, then following up on Gunrunner's comment, are you guys telling me that I can have the fixed voltage plug wires that run to my switches be wired to the hot terminal of a separate AC transformer?    (It is pretty easy for me to do, because I already have a small 1040 mounted under the table to blow a whistle.)   

If I go that route,  do I also have to hook up another common wire somewhere at the switch, and have it run back to the common terminal of the second transformer?   Or, is the current common wire of the track good enough to carry any common current back to my Z-1000 without any issues or damage?    Or do I have to do some type of "phasing" of the two transformers?

Thanks, you guys are great.

Mannyrock

Gunrunner,

Thanks for your generous offer of the sockets.  When I figure out what I'm going to do, I may well take you up on that.

I checked online, regarding LED 12 wattage, and as you mentioned, they all say they draw 3 watts.

OK Guys this means I should go with a separate transformer.  But, what about that second common wire please?

Thanks for the construction ideas.  I think my socket will sit atop a short, fat, pole, probably made from 1/2 inch water pvc pipe.  Should be pretty easy to construct.   I will use a regular 022 lantern on top to cover the bulb, with the red lenses blacked out.  (Or, I recently bought a few new lanterns, and one of the red lenses just popped out.  If this is standard, I can pop out the red lenses and replace those with green.)

And, as always, thanks for all replies.

Mannyrock

@Mannyrock posted:


...

I checked online, regarding LED 12 wattage, and as you mentioned, they all say they draw 3 watts.



I find this hard to believe.  Please post a link or whatever that states an O22 bulb in LED form draws 3 Watts?  I'd expect it to be closer to 1/4 Watt...the power depends on the track voltage since you're operating in conventional mode so 1/4 Watt is what I'd suggest as an average.

Stated differently, if the LED version of the O22 bulb draws the same 3 Watts of power as the incandescent version, why bother changing

Last edited by stan2004

And, IIRC, you had a bad experience with a multimeter so we can skip going down the path of asking you to make meter measurements of voltage/current or whatever.

But since you already have O22 bulbs in LED form, can you touch them while powered in your turnouts?  If they are indeed drawing 3 Watts, you will burn your finger.  If they are cool or only warm to the touch they are NOT drawing 3 Watts!   Again, I'd expect something around 1/4 Watt  so just a couple Watts for all your tower power indicators.

Plus, I must be missing something...but I don't see how an additional transformer helps for the matter at hand.  If the 8 tower bulb indicators are meant to show track power is "live" on the 8 blocks, then it seems to me the bulbs must be powered by whatever transformer powers the tracks.

Stan,

Thanks for all of that advice.   The only online checking I did was to Google the generic topic of 12 volt LED flashlight bulbs.  I couldn't find anything specifically about 022 switch bulbs.

Perhaps  you are correct about LEDs drawing minimal power. 

I think what I am going to do is build the 8 little towers, put LED bulbs in all of them, and see what happens to my train speeds.

Right now, with the 8 switches I have with LED bulbs, and the 5 controllers I have, with 10 bulbs, my Z-1000 will run three dual motor diesels at a time, at high speeds. 

One good thing, is that I'm not going to try to run any other accessories off of my main transformer, aside from the 8 little tower lights.

Thanks,

Mannyrock

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