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Well, transitioning from one rail height to another is a messy deal, isn't it?  I have read the usual tricks involving soldering and find them unappealing.  However I recall reading in this forum about commercially produced .100 to .125 transition rail joiners.  Anybody care to help me on this?  I have quite a few of these transitions on my modular waterfront switching layout.  And I admit, I am looking for an easy solution.  Thanx.                                                        -Salty Rails- 

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I have had good luck with grinding away a little material from the bottom of the larger rail with a cut off wheel (But using it as a grinder) for the 3/8" or so where it slips into the joiner.  Only takes a few seconds per rail.  Maybe it will at least get you by until the joiners arrive.  I usually solder all by rail joints also, but grinding the larger rail will make it even

Having used the ROW transition joiners, they do not slide, on, they need to be glued or soldered. I glued mine. I do wish that there were slide on joiners made.

If you look to the right of the building, where the two unstained wood ties are, you can see the compromise joint bars. The grey plastic joiners in the middle of the building are the code 100 glue on joiners. I would be a buyer for code 100 nickel silver slide on joiners

 

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If you look to the bottom of this picture, or the right where the unstained ties are, you can see the slide on code 125 rail joiners from ROW. I REALLY love these.

 

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When you need to mix different height rail just lightly solder the traditional slide-on rail joiner onto the larger rail size be careful not to get excess solder into the void.   Then snip a sliver off of a feeler gauge of the correct difference & insert it into the 1/2 empty side of the rail joiner and slide on the smaller rail, solder this side optional.   Keep .023", .025" & .009" feeler gauges handy.  Available individually from your Snap-On dealer.  Not  Right-of-Way but it works fine.

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