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I looked through the forum and have not seen this issue addressed: light is on and the track out put is a constant 20 volts... any ideas on the cause?  I fear it is the chopper circuit on the little green PC board in which case this may be the end for this unit.  Could the cause be something easy to fix like the potentiometer? 

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Just in case you did not actually read the article.

 

"Each of the Triacs is bypassed by a resistor and capacitor in series to reduce transients across the Triacs. NOTE: These rather large 1 uF capacitors will cause misleading output voltage readings on a high-impedance digital voltmeter if there is little or no resistance connected from A or B to U at the output. The impedance of the capacitor, even with the Triac shut off, will be much lower than the input impedance of the digital voltmeter, causing virtually the entire available 18 VAC to appear across the meter. When testing this transformer, add a light bulb across the output being tested. The bulb will not only offer a low resistance shunt to help the meter read correctly, but it will also give a visual indication of what is happening with the output voltage as the lever is changed or the Accessory voltage is programmed.

 

   Don

I always test transformers with some kind of load, I usually use the bank of 8 ohm 75W resistors I have from when I worked on old hi-fi equipment.   Even a pair of automotive bulbs in series makes a good load, just enough to prevent false readings.

 

FWIW, with any of my meters, the CW-80 tests zero volts at a closed throttle setting open circuit.  If he's getting voltage of any magnitude at the zero throttle setting, I'd say something is probably wrong.  If you can get power under load from the transformer with the throttle closed, I'd take a stab at replacing the BTA32 triac on the track circuit first.

 

The schematic is available on that link Dale posted.

 

John,

Before you go replacing triacs, there are some adjustments that can be made.
First, there are two potentiometers. One big one, attached to the orange handle, and one small one in series with the big one. The small one can be adjusted to bring voltage down to zero, if necessary.
If that does not work, the magic light bulb trick will. Just add a 24v incandescent bulb in parallel with track output.

Finally got some time a few minutes ago and put a loco on the track. Voltage went to zero and train ran normally normally as I cranked the handle up. This is one of the original cw-80 units, there is no date code on the bottom. The cw80 I have been using prior is one with the G designation and is a newer generation unit. That one functions like my 1033 and KW, meaning zero volts when handle is off and no load. Volts increase as speed handle is turned. The old cw80 units need the load as several have noted along with the article referenced and Don't act like the new ones in this situation. My lesson is to test transformers with a load and do not assume that old and new generations will act the same. Thanks to all for the help.

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