Decaling with Micro Mark Paper

Not familiar with the Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating 1303A.  I used Krylon's Crystal Clear Satin 51313 to seal after printing.  No problems whatsoever.

If there was no bleeding of the printing during water soak, you had sufficient coating.  The curling, if I understand your experience, is typical of decals when they hit water.  The backing paper expands as it absorbs the water to release the decal film.  Since the paper expands, but the film doesn't, all decals will curl.  Not usually a problem...unless you leave it in the water too long and the decal floats free of the paper while in the water.  Then, problem...and good luck.

Also, when you say the decal wouldn't set...are you saying Microscale Sol wouldn't soften the decal sufficiently to get it to snuggle into the base contours?  If that's the case, did you try applying more Sol?  Sometimes a heavy coat of the clear sealant you applied to the freshly printed decal will result in more time, more applications required to get the film to snuggle down after application to the model.  I've had to apply final setting solution (MS Sol) multiple times (Let it dry between each application, though!!!) on some decals to finally get them to snuggle without any silvering remaining.

Alternatively I've had some success in switching to Walthers' Solvaset on additional applications.  It seems to be a bit more aggressive setting solution than MS Sol for some situations.

BTW...You ARE applying the decals to a gloss finish, aren't you?  Trying to get the film to disappear when applied to a flat/matte finish is unnecessarily difficult-to-impossible.....IMHO.  Applying to a satin finish sometimes is OK, too, but gloss is best.

All in all, though, I've had great success with the Micro-Mark decal films.

FWIW....always.

KD

I have used the Micro mark decals without any issues.  After printing I use krylon clear matte finish to protect the decal.  I use warm water and let to decal sit for 10-15 seconds before applying.  If it sits too long in the water the glue washes off.  Once everything is dry I give everything an over spray of the matte finish.

The only difference between the matte and the acrylic is that the acrylic is a gloss finish so, I don’t think it would be causing your problem.

KD, the curling I'm talking about is after the decal has been removed from the paper and is applied to the caboose.  It curls the edges  length of the decal and would not set.  If I tried to blot it came off .  The caboose was sprayed with Apple Barrel Acrylic art paint.  Mixed with distilled water and 92% isopropyl alcohol.  I finally used the same Krylon 51313 to get the decal to stick to the wet paint.  The decorative trim with the name was made out of balsa wood. The rest of the caboose body was plastic and ladders & grab irons were welding wire.  In the past I have used dry transfers on wood with no problems. I would have thought the paint sealed the balsa trim board.  I very much appreciate all your help & suggestions.

Gerry        

Gerry,

First of all...and I chalk it up to my old age...I had to edit my first response to you.  Where I referenced MicroScale's "Set", I meant to say "Sol".   So, re-read my comments...perhaps it clarifies, perhaps not.

Well, if you're applying water slide decals over acrylic craft paint on balsa wood without first applying a clear gloss coat, I believe you've found your problem.  Balsa is VERY porous with a serious grain contour.  Without sealing the wood first with several coats of sanding sealer, lightly sanding between coats, to yield a less porous, smoother base, you're not giving the decal film a chance to grab onto anything.  Acrylic craft paint alone on balsa will be tough to accept water slide decals. There's not that much adhesive on the decal film...which is a good thing because excess adhesive can cause long term yellowing of the film...even under a final sealing clear coat. 

So, the reason for preferring a glossy surface for waterslide decals is to give the adhesive a chance to find something to grab onto ASAP.  Your film edges are drying out before the adhesive is having a chance to grab.

As for your prior experience with dry transfers on the same surface/paint/preparation, I'm surprised if they were that easily transferred.  Here again, the waxy bonding medium on dry transfers needs something to consistently grab onto.  I know there's no film involved, and burnishing dry transfers with a well-rounded point can help, but as dry transfers age before application, the waxy bonding medium becomes less aggressive...even with prior gentle heating to restore some of its 'grabiness'.   My own experience with older dry transfers is that even with what I considered to be adequate burnishing at application, you might find some of the lettering/logo/striping/...whatever...still remaining on the original sheet when pulled away from the model.

Have you tried using styrene strip stock, instead of balsa, for your lettering boards?  That might help your situation, too.

These sorts of experiences while attending the School of Hard Knocks for a lifetime is a primary cause of baldness....IMHO.  But they help you find your way to an acceptable solution.  When The Forum came along, it helped all of us learn the 'quicks more trickly'...a good thing.  I 'spect others will chime in shortly to offer their perspectives. 

Hang in there!

KD

KD:  Thank you.  I feel you cleared up my decaling dilemma.    The use of plastics.   I would have used.  Unfortunately,  Carr's Hobby of Duluth Mn. closed when Jack was ill and passed.  Sometimes I just don't have the patience and want to get things done.   Thank goodness for O Gauge Forum members like you KD.

Gerry (Gary