Fastrack switch reliability

I ran Fastrack switches for several years without issue including a reversing loop.  The auto derail on the reversing loop is easier than the wear and tear the remote lever experiences from you throwing the switch.

@Genemed posted:

Just out of curiosity, during normal run times, maybe a hour or so a day, how long will a Fastrack remote/command switch last? Like the LED bulb and the switching mechanism(the automatic derailing function)? Has anyone had Fastrack switches on their layout for many years working flawlessly? I’m asking because I have 2 048 switches on the inner reversing loop that the automatic derailing function works every time the locomotive enters and exits the loop from either direction as it should. Should I use this loop only when reversing is needed? All 12 switches are working properly now.

Gene

Have run them since the beginning, no issues at all.

Four years, almost perfect.

@Steims posted:

The auto derail on the reversing loop is easier than the wear and tear the remote lever experiences from you throwing the switch.

That’s good to know, I figured just the opposite. Thank you

Gene

Surprisingly, Fastrack switches are quite reliable.  The one issue I found is taking the back off and soldering all the crimped joints.  Especially important if you're going to fasten them down and maybe ballast around them.

I've had 20 or so of these switches going for about 10 years. I have had an led go out once (easy to fix) and had a couple of switches stick so they wouldn't move. I disassembled one and found that the tips of rack and pinion gear teeth ended up on top of each other. I fooled around with it and it seemed to work. Then it stuck again and in a frustrating moment I rapped the switch with the back handle of a screwdriver. And it worked fine after that. Another switch a couple years later did the same thing so I rapped that one...fixed! I have to say that I'm ok with these switches that sort of fix themselves.

@cjack posted:

had a couple of switches stick so they wouldn't move. I disassembled one and found that the tips of rack and pinion gear teeth ended up on top of each other. I fooled around with it and it seemed to work. Then it stuck again and in a frustrating moment I rapped the switch with the back handle of a screwdriver. And it worked fine after that. Another switch a couple years later did the same thing so I rapped that one...fixed!

Not to say your method doesn't work. However , I was able to stop the jamming by snagging down the small can motor mount which was allowing it to rock ever so slightly allowing the gear to climb out the end of the rack.

The way things go in this hobby. I'm sure both repair methods are correct lol!

I tried that. Even replaced the motor with pinion. Then it stuck again and rapping it was easier that removing the switch from the layout and taking out 14 screws. It's only happened once on the one switch and a few times on the first one.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Surprisingly, Fastrack switches are quite reliable.  The one issue I found is taking the back off and soldering all the crimped joints.  Especially important if you're going to fasten them down and maybe ballast around them.

Good point, I did forget that, for whatever reason they do develop continuity issues.

@ThatGuy posted:

Good point, I did forget that, for whatever reason they do develop continuity issues.

No mystery as to the reason, crimping two pieces of tin together and expecting them to maintain good contact for years is pretty foolish, and Lionel certainly should know that!

IMHO.....its cost, cost cost. Soldering requires another step in the manufacturing process along with the equipment to do it. Then there's the health or environmental issues of soldering thousands  of connections. And I've always wondered about Lionel's "quality control". I ended up adjusting at minimum and rebuilding at most all of my O Gauge 072 switches. They were the worst.....but they work good now. Its sad that I had to do that to items that cost me between $90 and $110 a piece.

@Junior posted:

Its sad that I had to do that to items that cost me between $90 and $110 a piece.

There's nothing new here.  The original O-72's are basically a very old design.  It's not sad.  Sad would be if the quality declined over the years, or if you as a tinkerer with all of your experience couldn't get them to work.

They are what they are, and most of us who are not tinkerers have moved on from them as a result.

My compliments though to the those of us who find a way to make them work in spite of this.  Our hobby benefits greatly from this kind of dedication.

Mike

22 switches on my layout for over 10 years and no issues at all.  Considering what we go through with our trains in our hobby, I'd say that is a pretty reliable track record.  Nothing is perfect and you will always find a dud here and there.

Thank you all for your feedback.

Gene