Would it be a good idea to power up with the shell OFF to test all lights and couplers? This way it’s possible to make any corrections easily before tying everything up and removing any unused wires.
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I always test every install before installing the shell, whether it be DCS, TMCC, or anything else.
Thank you. My idea is to make sure all is working then remove any unused wires and shorten the remaining as necessary to complete a clean install.
When removing excess wiring, remember to leave a little extra so repairs/replacement can be performed at a later date.
Great tip thanks.
I am mainly focusing on unused light wires.
You can remove the unwanted control wires from the 40 pin and clip the PV lead once you know what is not used. PS-2 molex plugs can have polarity for markers reversed from PS-3 so just make sure you have the polarity correct. If you don't used conventional you can omit the vol/smoke pots, but they are nice feature if you sell later. G
On first power up, the upgrade instructions say to start in conventional mode, I assume this is to confirm movement, all lights, smoke unit and couplers are working and there are no excessive current draws.
I read in another post about needing to use a minimum length cables from the TIU or Z4000 to the track, however I didn’t see anything about this in the PS3 upgrade instructions.
Also, is it possible to program the locomotive using the remote to the TIU or does it have to be done with the Z4000?
I have both so just wondering. I prefer to use the best recommended way to eliminate issues.
GGG
thanks for the reply
will be removing the unused wire after initial testing.
Actually, the smart money may be removing the unused wiring BEFORE testing, might as well test the final configuration. 
Thanks John,
that was my initial thought going by the diagram and knowing the FT does not have all the lights anyway. Definitely will make a neater bundle.
Grj,
Does the DCS/conventional mode switch need to be mounted? The Chassis does not have a cut out that fits the switch. There is a smoke on-off switch opening I could use if necessary.
If you mean the DCS/DCC switch, you don't need it if you don't run DCC. For DCS the switch wiring is connected together.
is it worthwhile to leave the switch installed? Maybe if I decide to sell or for initial set up and programming?
Entirely up to you what you do there. Personally, I never installed the DCS/DCC switch as I never intend on running them in DCC mode.
Sound logical, will probably do the same.
I have a programming question, is it ok to post it here, it is related to this locomotive project.
Works for me. 
The original locomotive is the MTH 2-2563-1 FT ABA Harley Davidson PS2.0. I have the sound files for PS2.0.
my question is, can I install the original sound file after installing the FT chain file?
or is the sound file and chain file the same?
Ok I think I figured out the sound file question, as long as the PS 2.0 sound file is from the 3V PS 2.0 system it will work with PS 3.0. But can‘t go from PS3 to PS2.
@Harlee62 posted:Ok I think I figured out the sound file question, as long as the PS 2.0 sound file is from the 3V PS 2.0 system it will work with PS 3.0. But can‘t go from PS3 to PS2.
Correct, PS/3 files are usually 4mb, and the maximum memory on the 3V boards is 2mb.
