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RickM46 posted:

There was no damage to the wires above the flywheel but since I was in there, I taped them to the top of the shell as Stephen did.  Also noticed that there were some wires snug on both sides of the motor that were quite close to the flanges of the front wheels.  Taped those to the side of the motor to keep them away from the flanges.  Noticed that pesky capacitor that was missing from my Big Boy that made it run smoother - it was included on the E6.  Lastly, in the last pic, I saw that the boiler shell was made in Korea.  Tested the engine and all is well.

Do yourself and anyone else that has to go inside that shell and invest in some Kapton tape!  Black electrical tape quickly turns into a gooey mess!  I detest working on anything that has been slathered in black tape!

Actually, most any of them will do, I've been using some generic Polyimide Film Tape that I bought on Amazon three or four years ago.  Before that, I was using some of the high priced spread left over from when I worked in aerospace.  I haven't noticed any difference in the performance of the big buck stuff and the Amazon stuff in my usage.  Eleven bucks gets you four sizes of 36 yard rolls, probably enough for many years.

Hxtape Multi Size Choices High Temperature Kapton Tape,Polyimide Film Tape for Masking,3D Printing,Electric Task,Soldering,1/4 inch,1/2 inch,3/4 inch,1 inch, 36yds/roll, Pack of 4

Ted S posted:
RickM46 posted:

Took a look at the bottom of my E6 and there is no obvious bottom plate; just a grease port above the gear;

Your photos suggest that you're right.  However, the exploded photos of 6-84943 on the Lionel parts website suggest it's the same as mine (look at part #24):

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...1C-87CB-085D74602447

These Legacy 4-4-2 Atlantics are curious beasts.  The first Legacy version, 6-11117 Santa Fe was built like yours (and like the earlier conventional Atlantics of the mid-2000s.)  Captive axles, no bottom plate.  Mine is the 6-11225.  It has a split chassis as depicted in the link above, and you can easily remove the wheels and axles, which is my preferred design.  I guess it depends on which Chinese contractor du jour gives Lionel the low bid.  20 years from now the replacement parts situation is gonna be fun!!

I would get some new traction tires and see if that helps.  I'll be following this thread for further developments.

The 6-11117 Santa Fe is a split chassis. The bottom plate with brakes is prone to breakage

also, I believe the wheel bearings are not exactly square. Check; if reming wheel sets

Last edited by shawn

Just did  a little coarse experiment on the bobbing issue; the roof of the cab easily shows movement; taped a Craftsman 1/2" drive extension above the cow catcher - don't have anything to weigh it with - that produced no significant change.  Then, tried a 1 1/8" socket easily 3 times the weight of the extension - that reduced the bobbing to 0 - only noticeable if you were looking for it.  Seemed like the motor was laboring a bit though.

Next, removed all weight; added 10" lengths of straight track to the circular loop to create an oval and saw that the bobbing on the straight track was almost nil.  So, adding the right amount of weight does have an effect on curve track; a decision between stopping the movement and labor on the motor.

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Last edited by RickM46

After some thought (a few drinks; nap) about adding weight to the E6 to deal with the bobbing, I have decided to not add weight to it unless there is a pulling or switch track or climbing issue up a ramp or O36 curves (I did order these just in case https://www.amazon.com/TourGear-Hireko-FlexTee-Tungsten-Weights/dp/B01EUYPF8I/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1549028545&sr=8-28&keywords=lead+tape).

Jeff mentioned that his MTH with 2 axle drivers does the same; I am thinking that a bit more engineering would have to been done with balance - too late for the E6. 

In spite of the bobbing, I still like this little guy and like how it makes its way around the O72 oval - no derailing yet; I like the whistle - my top criteria for buying a steamer.

Years ago in Model Railroader magazine there was an article on getting a brass E-6 to run well. Of course HO has the problem of very little weight compared to O but the point was that the engine should balance at the center point of the drivers for optimal performance. Doubt this is something Lionel has looked at and I don't have an E-6 to check but it might be an idea for a place to begin trying to weight the loco.

I think most of the Atlantic's tend to bob without some careful tuning,  I've owned a few of the Lionel models, and I don't remember any of them that didn't have some bobbing as they ran.  I have a Weaver that I upgraded to TMCC, it's pretty good, but there is a hint of bobbing with it.

This is not really surprising, there are only four drivers actually supporting the weight, any slight weight shift when you're pulling a load will shift the balance.

As Don Padova quoted Chruchill "In the course of my life I have had to eat my words, and I must confess it was a wholesome diet"..........Winston Churchill.

While removing the shell off my E6 to remove the black tape, I saw a nice rectangular box cavity behind the boiler front and forward of the Bluetooth board to add weights - see pic.  With its depth ~7/16 and headroom above it of ~7/16, one could place a bit of weight there.  Love eating my words!

GRJ, is the Kapton tape conductive??

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pennsy484 posted:

Hi Rick. They are pine car strip weights, available at hobby shops, Michael's  and of course Amazon.  Lead tape would be good too, perhaps even better.

As to how many, they really fit in there well and I just stacked as many as I could fit.

It always seems like just a little more weight would be perfect but filling that space really did have an affect.  I am not really sure why that is since even though the engine is back heavy, it's the rear drivers that have the traction tires, so one might think it's actually better to leave it rear heavy.  Idk.  

Even if no improvement in pulling power, for me just reducing that bobbing was key. I didn't care for that.  It ruined the illusion for me. 

My mth Atlantic is a wobbler too.  It seems that having just two rows of closely spaced drivers makes it a configuration that easily shows any front-back imbalance.

Good luck! 

I seem to remember reading that same thing about the full scale PRR E6 as well. Said moved around a lot, although I think that was more sway side to side but still, short wheelbase = wild ride!

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