When I built my house, I spent a few bucks and had all the walls and the floor insulated. My home is a raised ranch and only about three feet of foundation is in the ground. I then looped all the walls with baseboard heat (hot water /oil) and rarely need to activate the loop. It has it's own circulator pump. The coldest days do not need the heat turned on. I do turn it on several times in the winter to keep the pump active.
My basement is finished and the room is hooked into the central HVAC system. An alternative might be to use a Kerosene stove.
Gandy
Originally Posted by Popi:
I didn't heat our basement when we had one.
used to live in western New York.
had an old stone basement. no matter what time
of the year it was, the basement stayed a constant
60 degrees Farenhite. middle of winter at minus 20
the basement was 60. middle of summer in scorching 90s.
basement was 60. I use to go down there in summer
when it was hot and camp out. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
The house we lived in for the past 35 years, before moving last fall, had a stone foundation 18 inches thick. It was the same way as yours. We now have a new house with a concrete foundation and it is definitely a bit different then the old stone one. It stays cooler in summer and even cooler in winter. May do a little more insulating of the foundation this winter, at least in the cold spots.
Speaking of basements, for those that have cinder block basement, what paint/ barrier product do you recommend? I currently have a white paint/ barrier but it's starting to flake off.
@prr-
If you leave the block as is, I would use drylok, it worked pretty well for me.
My house's basement has the furnace (gas forced hot air) in it, and it is only really a half basement given it is a 1950's split. Basement is concrete block, most of it is below grade.I have been in the process of renovating it, putting up walls and insulation, and it already is a lot warmer with them up. I could put ducts in the main heat output, but I don't want to disrupt the balance of the system.
Since the space is relatively small, I might use one of the portable ac units that also can act as heat. Given that I probably only would turn it on when I was down there doing things, it is unlikely it would be a killer with the electricity costs.
If folks have a separate hot water heater, it is possible to circulate the water from the hot water heater under the floor (it is like radiant heating), they call it hydronic heating.
I agree with others, probably the biggest thing you can do is to put up walls and insulation. Even if you don't formally finish it off (I have seen people put insulating foam up on the walls, insulation in the ceiling, and leave it like that, which could have fire issues), anything you do will help. Some basements can hold a continuous temperature of like 60 or so, and so it doesn't take a lot to make them comfortable in winter.
The only thing to consider when you finish off the basement is ventillation, if you finish it off being a below grade space ventilation is important. Some basements you can simply keep some windows cracked, others might need more.
Guys,
I do the basics, Irub my hands and move around! LOL!
A very good friend of mine by the name of JIM BEAM keeps me warm.
There's an Operating Rule on Jim riding in a loco cab.
the oil furnace is approx 3 feet from my layout, so I stay nice and toasty.
Is that the outside or inside? The outside should be parged with cement, then waterproofed below grade. The above grade can be painted, or dye can be added to the cement pargeting. The old flaking paint can be scraped or pressure washed off, and new paint applied.Don
On Monday, October 27, 2014 1:36 PM, O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
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On Monday, October 27, 2014 1:36 PM, O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
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Speaking of basements, for those that have cinder block basement, what paint/ barrier product do you recommend? I currently have a white paint/ barrier but it's starting to flake off. View This Reply
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