My Ross diagram calls for a pair of "islolated track sections" on each leg going into my 299 11 degree crossover. How long is an isolated section? How do I make it? Insulated pins? I'll assume this isolated section is what triggers the Z1000 and the relay wired into the cross over? I never imagined a cross over so complicated. What makes is so?
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John:
It appears the 11 degree crossing needs a little help to fill the holes. The Ross Technical diagram for the 11 degree cross shows the isolated rail sections that you ask about. Y and Z shown on the diagram. 1" to 2" should be more than enough. I would think, the small pieces part of the cross next to the X's and Y's shown in the diagram would also work. The idea is to power small rail sections (1) and (2) logically to assure the locomotive/unit powers through the cross with no stopage. It may work without the DZ1000/1008 wiring. I'd try it before you spend the money and time. Important to power the rail section marked (3)
I just checked out the Ross site on this. The reason you need the relay is the rails numbered 1 & 2 serve as both the common and power depending on the direction of the train. When passing over one way they are the outside rail = common. When passing through the other direction they function as the middle rail = power. The relay will shift power to that middle rail depending on the direction of travel. Without having that rail powered most engines will stall when going through the crossover at slow speeds.
The isolated section doesn't look very long their diagram, and I don't think it needs to be. I'm thinking I would make it 2". Maybe call Ross, they are nice folks and it says to call them if you have any questions, to doublecheck. You can cut the rails where the break needs to be. Dremel wth a cutting blade works best, but a hacksaw will do in a pinch.
I am using the cross over like this....The outer main line will have a Ross Regular left handed Ross Ready that will cross over the inside main on the 11 degree cross over and go to a spur. So it looks like I will need to isolate one outer rail on the Ross Ready Regular turnout to isolate it. I am assuming I am making the isolate rails on the three tracks and one turnout that feed the 299 crossover?????
Does it matter how long the isolated section is? Can it be a 6" stretch of straight section or is this too long?
So your feeling on the diagram is I isolate a piece of track X and Y for an inch or two on the track feeding the crossover on all three sides. I should create a dremel cut off wheel cut and insulate that piece? I am feeding one leg of the cross over with ross ready regular turnout. What do I do on that leg?
That's the idea. The isolated sections are on both sides of the xover because when a trains wheels are in contact with it, the circuit is completed on that line of track and the relay will route power to the correct track while that circuit is in intact. When the train rolls past the isolated section, the circuit is closed. One run of track will stay powered, but the power will switch depending on which track the train is travelling on. I'm thinking you only need a short section, close to the xover, as illustrated in the RCS schematic. But a 6" section should be fine if you want to do it that way. I don't see why not. Have fun.
I will do the 6 inch then I can use a GarGraves plastic insulated pin at both ends and not need to cut the track at all.
Dr John. We did something similar two layouts back and it was a pain. The next time we installed switches back to back to change from one loop to the other and then into the turnout. Takes a few more if you do it in several places but worked better, IMHO. Just sayin.
John. That should be fine. The power will stay on the powered rails as long as wheels are in the isolated section completing the circuit. That is why you don't want a long isolated section. Another train could be coming from the other direction while the first is still in the long isolated first section. The relay works great when properly installed, assuming you have a good one out of the box. Be careful with your connections. It's handy to have an ohmmeter to check power to the rails after installation to make sure all is working correctly. Go for it!