Isolate a siding

The center rail of that entire siding, needs to be isolated and powered thru a switch for power. So what are these plastic clips? Are they track joiners? You would install those in the siding at both ends.

The switch should be good quality and handle the amp draw of engines and cars running thru the siding. 

I believe that these are what you are talking about:

At the tip of the arrow (at two places) where you wrote "Cut Power", install one of these of these joiners.

Now for a question. For the remainder of this siding, how many track feeders do you have? HOW you have wired your power feed will affect how you turn it on/off.

You will need to run a separate power feed(s) to the siding. A small single pole/single throw toggle switch to control the power. Since that siding is very long you could split it in two and be able to park two trains on it.

Yes, those are the plastic joiners I have.  Do I put them on the center rail and one outer rail or just one outer rail, I have read that some people use two plastic joiners per end of track and some just one on center rail. should the plastic joiners go on the switch end or track end, or maybe it doesn't matter?  What type toggle switch would I use ?  I run on DCS and have only one power supply with no feeder wires and the signal is fine no issues.  Thanks for the help men !

Just in the center rail, leave all the outside rails common.

Thanks. What type toggle switch ? and where do I put the power connections too Center rail and one outside rail ? Is any part of the track good for the power, begining or middle.  Sorry for all questions 

You need a switch that handles enough power for anything that will be on the siding.  You just switch the center rail as I said, the outside rails are typically common throughout the whole layout.

Would I use a spst toggle switch for this ?  thanks again

The most important thing it the amp rating for the contacts in the switch. I would suggest at least 10 amps. If you pick 20+ amps, that would be gross overkill.

Ok Thanks

Would these work?

Those will work fine.  While the rating of the switch is important, remember that the switch only has to switch the power for the siding, so even a 6A mini-switch would probably be plenty.

I use these toggles, 6 A rated and the pre-wired leads make hook up easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these two ,all sidings are grounded and single hot to wire to connector then wire to track,have been using a dozen or so and has worked for over 20 years

http://www.hobbylinc.com/atlas...u1P4ZqxoCxdkQAvD_BwE

http://www.hobbylinc.com/atlas...-track-accessory-205

Joe, I have to wonder what current rating that has.  Most of that stuff is used for HO or N.

Thank You all for the info.  Yes I was wondering about the initial hookup. Could I run the switch to one of my MTH distribution blocks for the power ? I like the toggles RSJB18 shown on amazon. Would the on/off switch for atlas switches work I have some extra ones or no.    Thanks

I've unintentionally acquired many Atlas #215 selectors. They are intended for use with the likes of N and HO which have a much smaller power draw than our O Gauge trains. However, I have used them for decades on O gauge trains without fault - from my perspective, I didn't explicitly pay for them, and if they blew up, I could then spend money on the "right" thing, whatever that turned out to be. So far, no issues. However, I make a habit to not switch them under load. But to @gunrunnerjohn's point, they are probably technically undersized. However, Atlas doesn't seem to release any specifications 

bmoran4 posted:

I've unintentionally acquired many Atlas #215 selectors. They are intended for use with the likes of N and HO which have a much smaller power draw than our O Gauge trains. However, I have used them for decades on O gauge trains without fault - from my perspective, I didn't explicitly pay for them, and if they blew up, I could then spend money on the "right" thing, whatever that turned out to be. So far, no issues. However, I make a habit to not switch them under load. But to @gunrunnerjohn's point, they are probably technically undersized. However, Atlas doesn't seem to release any specifications 

I've been using them for nearly 20 years - never had an issue. 

You said that some people use 2 plastic joiners at the ends of the track segment, while others use one.  One on the center rail is all you need, with a switch connected to the center's power feed.   I install a 2nd plastic joiner on an outer rail only if I need block occupancy detection for signals....  TO CLARIFY: I am talking about at one end.  Given a siding with 2 connections, repeat twice.