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After Jealously Wink

watching everyone build their layout for the last 3 years and running their trains I Finally finished up a 2 1/2 year Honey dew list in the new house and having the basement 90% done like everyone recommended here. I went out and bought some wood yesterday and got started this morning. I recruted one of my freinds from the club,Dave Neuman to help me get the base started .

My favorite railroad and engines and terrain is the Norfolk and Westerns , so i ve planned some big mountains as well as a giant coal mine , and various services they provided.


Around the wall 4-5 feet out ,with 2 - pininsulas (116" radius.) 32 "minimium walkways. Not much of a drawer but this is the basic layout so far . Also threw in some nice winding benchwork to mimick the pininsulas. WE built standard benchwork for square areas and the L girder to let boards run long, then cut radius to match following side. I kept the girder back 13" from ends,(cantiliver) I will eventually like to put cabinets in some spots and finish from bottom of trim board to floor.
Has anyone have suggestions as to how I would finish from bottom of trim board to Floor?

all 3 layers
PH1Layout.rrt


















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Last edited by Patrick H
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Wow Patrick, nice space and proof that good things come to those who wait. By the way, a little FYI. The honeydo list is never complete.

I had some thoughts of cabinetry under my future layout as well. Below is a pic of tambour. If it was turned vertically you could simply plumb down from the curved fascia on the top to the floor and make a track for this tambour to ride in on selected areas of your layout.



Keep us posted, you must be very excited with such a great space to run trains.
Not sure what beadboard is?
Is it similiar to the sliding door picture of that cabinet?

I ve seen one or two other ones that where completely finished and stained.
I m thinking im am gonna have to build another wall on 16's all the way around the contour of the edge and attatch it up under neath. My big problem is gonna be where the walk way inside radius is only 36".

What bends that tight? Maybe this is where i should put the 12" cabinets. I d have to hold them back a little though.







Last edited by Patrick H
I ve been going over this in my mind even before they poured the concrete in the basement. LOL

Yes it is true , The first set of pics was all done in one day ,Saturday. Its a mixture of standard framing in each anchor point then running 2 L- beams to connect them. Drop all your laterals on top and cut them to radius shape you want.We started with 3 levels from base down, to give it some drop downs for bridges and canyons etc, now will cover with 3/4 , but not screw down yet,lay track, cookie cut around track , then raise tracks with 3/4 to different heights.

I have been trying to figure exactly what i will finish underneath with.

I could use more ideas. I am going to check oput the bead board to see if can make the tight radius.

After a couple suggestions so far. I was thinking maybe that .88 a sq ft prefinished wood flooring stood up on end and attatched to trim board. Then use a panel cap.

I would like to find more pics of how others have done it.
Patrick,
Please do not stop keeping the forum up-to-date with photos of your progress. It seems to me that when a person shares the development of a project like this with other hobbyists, it just makes model railroading a really great pastime for all of us.

BTW, I would go for something darker in color (stained or painted) than the rest of your layout environment. Something that does NOT draw the attention of the viewer.

Good luck.
Hi Patrick, being a cabinetmaker I thought of a couple of thing that might help you cover the bottom of your layout. Which by the way is going to be impressive.

The first thing is 3/8 bending ply which should get you around those bends but it is not real smooth, it will have a grain pattern to it. It can be fastened with screws or nails. The second one is 1/4" kerfed mdf. It dose have a smooth face and bends really well. The only drawback to it is fastening it. A screw or a nail will go through in between the kerfs so you need to watch how you fasten it. You could glue with wood glue as long as you have a piece on the floor that also follows the curve.

As for the price, I don't know exactly what it is at this time. We go through Russel Plywood for most of our stuff and I think they will sell to you, it just won't be the same price we get. I haven't looked on the net as to where else you might be able to get it.

Maybe this is more than you'r looking for, but I just thought it might be a different approach. Good luck and keep the pics going. Smile
Last edited by Ralph4014
Patrick
Here is another link to bending plywood. http://www.woodmagazine.com/ma...ods-selector/?page=4 Depending on your skills and tools a 36" radius is not that tight of a bend. Bending plywood comes in different thicknesses and you may have to glue it up in multiple layers.

Also tambour is strips of wood that are attached to a mesh or cloth so they will flex going through a curve. Think of this for an area where you may want a door in a curved part of the fascia. Hope this helps.
Dan thanks for the advice, the wife had me stain EVERYTHING in the house dark,

Ralph,
Definately not more than i was looking for . I do glass block for a living , even though i literally built most of this house , i dont know what s all out there. If it dosnt have a big sign on it at lowes or home depot, i probubly never heard of it.Very good idea.

Greg,

Thanks for the link, it really makes a big difference when you have people on the forum give you suggestions. Even when i think im Mr Know it all I ask anyway, then i find out im Mr know a little. Confused But at least i know where to ask . Im gonna look into all the suggestions . I obviously have a little time but like to keep my eye out for deals.
Regarding bending plywood around corners, we have had luck using regular plywood intended for furniture (3-ply plus veneer, quarter-inch, I think; I'd have to go look to be sure). If it won't make it around a turn on the layout fascia, we stop, throw it into the swimming pool for 10 or 15 minutes, and then try it again Big Grin

We have gotten around some really tight turns this way, and even S-curves. Though we have not tried this with a piece more than about 4 inches wide, I don't see why it could not work with a larger sheet if there is something solid to fasten it too, top and bottom. Also, it is important that the plywood be "clear". Knots don't bend too well!
I am definately leaning towards a wood product that can be stained and cut to allow for yes ,cabinets and shelves. The corragated is also an excellent idea .Would like to see pics of that.
The 2x4 construction is because I am planning to go all the way to the ceiling with mountains on a skeleton framing,3/4 only under where track and some of the buildings will sit. I tend to walk on my benchwork alot.Epecially in the areas where it is only 16" off the floor.
Being that there will be alot of cantiliver to create the curves and drops, i wanted some meat in the areas where they would hang over so they wouldnt get snapped off before it was completed with the final trim board because i usually put in more drops and rearrange curves with the track work and building placement.
Finally i usually go and pick up 100 2x4s at a time. Dont know about where you live but finding even a small amount of long , lightweight , straight 1x4s for a decent price isnt easy.
If youve seen the module i posted on here(York Module) we used 1x4s for that ,but had to add alot of wood fill ins where the drops where. .I see the HO guys skeleton and cantiliver the 1/4 s as well. But IMHO the 2x4 in the long run is the better option for my situation,strength and money wise.

I just got from vaca, i will post some more updates soon.
Thanks for you ideas so far on finishing the skirting .
Beautiful layout in progress. Very nice job.

I am currently in my own "right of way" negotations with the "owner" of our basement laundry room. I will use the pics of your layout as an example of what could be were she to allow egress through her "domain".

Once again, fantastic looking bench work and a great layout in the works. Thanks for sharing it.
quote:
Originally posted by harleyhouse:
Patrick:

Awsome job! I can't wait until the open house.
harleyhouse


Mark,
wait until open house? What days cant i put you down for a hand? LOL
Your welcome anytime.
DV,
Good luck with negotiating, However I would be a little worried about putting my equipment at someone elses place permanently. If i didnt have anywhere to build . I would go outside.
LI,
Sorry missed you at York, im sure their be more chances .
I am going to use Gargraves Phantom flex with ross radius turns and switches. I was lucky enough to have a member from our club Matt Irvin get me a large load of used Ross radius turns and switches from another forum member on here.

Today i will be ripping homasote all day for road bed. Will update pics soon.
Last edited by Patrick H
quote:
Originally posted by Zigmont:
how many Transformers will run this layout and are you using legacy or mth dcs?
Seem like a big wiring job, maybe you can should just that process.
Great looking layout.



Right now , Im running 4 bricks (temporarly) directly on the bottom level, which is the two main lines.It seems it will be plenty with 2 trains running on each mainline. Its around 400 ft of track per main line.I bought all 14 gauge wire for track wiring. Some People say Lionel dont smoke that good, well run em with some bricks and see what happens.
Anyway I ll test to determine exactly How many bricks and sections I will use. My rule of thumb is 1 brick per 2 (w/smoke units)engines or 1- 6 car passenger train. But that was on other layouts. This is my first of this size.

I only own Lionel engines, nothing against Mikes, just thats what me and my Dad chased since i was young.So i ve stuck to one brand.

Im running Legacy 1.3. I started putting up some foam prematurely because (not mentioning any names) a dealer in Delaware took 4 weeks to get me cases of radius track sections. He already took my money so i had to wait.I wont bend flex to the O72 and O80. Think it makes a better job to buy them. O88 and higher I ll bend.And I dont want anything under O72 on the layout.

Sure, I will show how i end up wiring it .After i figure out a way to get the track work on a RR file.
Right now I still have another week or so of laying track and figuring out the exact way I am going to break it up.

For starters I know Im gonna put the Mainline on TPCs to run conventional engines if need be with the Legacy. Not sure if I m gonna do that for the second and third level with all the grades , might not be worth worrying about non Odeyssey engines up there.

Thanks for the kind words guys and incentive.
Last edited by Patrick H
They all connect but independant, 2% or less grade.
With two main lines on 1 st . 2 Main Lines on second level and connected to the yard and option to climb the mountain from 2nd to third level or downn to the 1st.
With the vision and legacy out now I wanted some slight "Roller coaster" runs to get the laboring and let up sounds going.LOL.
The first level is perfectly Level, again for Non oddysee and Conventional if need be.
Patrick;

It has been really entertaining to see the fantastic progress you have been making with this wonderful layout.

Your benchwork is very well done, especially for such a complicated layout with all of the twists and turns. It is also beneficial that you have documented your progress along the way because when the layout is done and the scenery is completed it would be difficult for many of us to realize the amount of work that led to the final product.

Congratulations on your wonderful achievement! Thanks

Steve Tapper
Thanks guys I appreciate that very much.

I Just finished all track work today finally. Except some bridge and yard stuff I cant do until Al sends the turntable.

I will address the power drops soon.
As stated earlier I have 2 bricks on each mainline which seems more than enough direct. It may be a different story when I put the TPC between them and the track.
My next step is to clean the giant mess and get started fresh on the wiring and switches so I dont have to crawl around on dust ,cut wood and homasote.

I have marlite to go all the way around the top so there is no corners and hide the doors. . Wasnt sure if spending the 1500.00 on Backdrop is worth it. Either way I am gonna paint it or put backdrop on it,first, before putting it up( 7 panels - 12 ft x 36")



























I hope its ok i posted so many pics. Hope your enjoying it as much as me.

Now hard part is behind and the fun stuff can begin.
Great looking layout and your progress is amazing. Your timing is great, it has helped me in visualizing what my next steps will be. A few weeks ago at York I finalized my plans after talking with some great guys that have been willing to listen, review and give advise on my layout design. Been working a year on design while 20x60 room was built onto my home. Started bench work a week ago and pleased with my progress so far. However, I knew the benchwork would go fast. I am amazed that so far every measurement is within a quarter inch of the RRTrack plan. I enjoy doing the benchwork and feel like I know what I am doing. Can't say that about the next step of laying track. I am using MTH ScaleTrax and have several custom radius curves to do. I have watched Rich Battista's video a few times but need to watch it again before starting. Rich has been great in providing assistance. Keep the pictures coming they are very inspiring. I will post a few pics of my benchwork after I post this. It is under this same thread "gsn1".
Patrick.......I am blown away by your layout. I can't imagine anyone being able to envision a layout with the sheer size and complexity of what you are building, and have it all come together as quickley as you have made it happen.

I am in the middle of constructing my own layout, which pales in comparison to yours, and my hats off to your talents. Thank you for the pics, they are an enjoyment.

REV
Patrick,

I am in awe of the size and scope of your layout. What I really like is that your mainlines "snake" along the mountainsides. That is very prototypical AND it makes your layout longer. While mountain scenery requires more work than flat lands,it's hard to beat the drama of a big engine running on the edge of a cliff. Thanks for the timely updates, fast progress, and great photos. I'd sure like to see a "ride along" or "pacing" Youtube video of any of your trains in operation.
Thanks you guys for the kind words.
I have not been able to touch the layout for the last 2 weeks, our club has been at shows and getting to shows . So I finally got saturday and sunday to restart.
I am putting foam everywhere first then gonna carve it to allow for the buildings etc........( i have a general idea where everything is going) Because I have family(alot of family) coming for Christmas , I hope to at least have it carved and painted by then. After that I can relax and really detail it up . Might be wishful thinking unless I take some time off.

As for the wiring , right now i am heading toward a different approach from my other layouts. I am actually planning 4 locations for "contol panels".Or should i say Information Stations.

[quote]Patrick.......I am blown away by your layout. I can't imagine anyone being able to envision a layout with the sheer size and complexity of what you are building, quote]

I cant imagine how so many are good with that RR software I am envious of that. So I have to make up for it with alot of paper and imagination.LOL

Quote"What I really like is that your mainlines "snake" along the mountainsides."quote


Nothing like a long train snaking through "Thunder Mountain."


[Quote""It is an inspiration".Quote]

Thats what I like about the forum the most. Most everyone has good things to say and inspires each other. Id still be building the legs if the wife was inspiring the layout.(just kidding)
Ive seen your plan IC man. Let me know what track and switches your gonna use so I can invest in that company.

Also Greg had mentioned to put in a "ground plane" . I havnt had any signal issues even in the one tight outside corner where i have 2 tracks stacked on 4 tracks stacked on 4 more tracks .

Should i plan for this anyway?











Last edited by Patrick H
After posting my design on this forum , i have come to realize that I think this was intended for software design layouts.I think. Just in case , I started a RR file also on the first level and soon will post RR file for second and third level because there are 2 areas i am saving for a secondary siding/yard and mining /coal area, that I would like some feed back and help with. I will get my RR file alot more EXACT as i go.

Ok here are some more pics if you would like to see them and the RRfile





















As I stated above I am just learning the RR file and my track on the benchwork is pretty even compared to the software file i have so far.. I will add the next couple layers and get RR file more exact.

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Last edited by Patrick H
quote:
Originally posted by leavingtracks:
Patrick...beautiful work!! Can you explain in more detail how you created the striations in the layers of foam??

Thanks,
Alan


Alan,

Oh boy, I think i better go over to the scenery forum before i get yelled at.LOL

If the foam is stacked(which I think looks the best) Take a 12-14 inch cats paw(nail puller) and just beat up the foam . Take more here and there or pull trenches and steps out of it in different directions. Then I use a 4 inch grinder with a thin 6-7 inch masonry cutting wheel(wear gloves) Just run the grinder back in fourth keep going horizontal(slight tilts are good to) lines from 1/2 to 1/8 apart, you will cross the line above and below the one you are scoring, it will look more realistic but try not to cross two lines while scoring if you can. try not to go to deep or you will need a sprayer to get paint in the cracks later. Sometime after scoring it with grinder Ill knock some of the layers off with a couple more whacks. It goes fast. I did 30'x1 yesterday in about 3-4 hours taking breaks for the grinder. Same for standing foam but not as good results for me.

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quote:
Originally posted by RICKC:
Patrick are you going to have an open house for Christmas so all of us admirers from the Pittsburgh area can come over and ogle? Rick


Christmas 2011 you mean right? My goal is to have all the foam carved and base coated and a couple trains running for Christmas(Family coming from all over US this year) Then I plan to take one section at a time and detail it up nice.

Sure after the holidays, probubly end of January forum member in the area will be welcome to come over and run trains and give me some ideas on the real finishing.

I am going to start with all the accesories that me and my father have bought since I was a kid, but eventially will corner them(the ones I keep) all in one area and replace with scratch built scenes and kits.
Thats my big dream as of now.

Charlie ,dont tell the wife! Smile

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Last edited by Patrick H
quote:
Originally posted by frankr:
Patrick,
I see that you have multiple layers of foam stacked and also see evidence of spray foam expandable insulation. What did you use to glue/fasten each successive layer? I am in the middle of creating my own 9x18 christmas layourt and am up to the foam stage.
Frank



Minimium expanding foam/(for windows and doors) It dries in less then a hour. Make sure you put a weight on your foam until it dries, do not use max expanding foam.(big crack filler)use gloves
Well it looks like i ll have a few trains running for the family coming over for the Christmas get together.

Thanks to all for the kind words.!!

D&D----Its called OBSEESSSSSSED like most of you crazy train nuts on here. I took off work for the last two weeks, and yes Mountain Dew not coffee. I get motivated around 3 and stay up until 3.

Russell --used homasote ripped for road bed 1/2 inch.

Springo--The flexible facad is temp but it is masonite and 1/4s.


Thanks Guys for the nice thngs you said.



I took all the foam sheets outside. I cut them 4-5 inches wide with the jigsaw. Takes about 10-15 min max to chop up a sheet. I did 3-4 at a time. Brought the strips inside. Once inside you have 2 options, If the 8ft long pieces will bend to the angle you want simply glue and screw it down with 3 inch screws. The first row will bite good. The next couple rows I used 3 inch screws and 16 penny nails to hold each row to the next. If you cant bend it that tight simply cut the ends at various intervals with a drywall knife. You omly have to get it close. The more you have to beat it up later, the better. Stack them 3-4 high. I used low expanding foam like mortar between bricks when stacking the foam.(very small amount) Then I would put heavy wire spools on them for weight as they dried.Maybe 30 min.

Take a cats paw or any tool like it and beat the foam up , taking big and small chunks out of it. The more chunks the better it will look later..

Wait until you have an entire day for the grinder.GLOVES AND MASK. If you have complainers in the house tell them to leave for the day,If you are only going to do small sections at a time nobody will be bothered.
Take the grinder and start horizontally making groves. the closer together the better. Try not to cross the line above or below the one you just made. Intersecting them is good but not X" ing them
You ll get the knack of it.

I did approx 30 ft x 12" each day. You will smell it upstairs during this process if you do more than 30 min at a time. But dosnt stay long.

Painting:
As for painting, i went and bought a 80.00 electric wagner sprayer. Regular cheap choclate brown water based paint and sprayed the whole thing(everything) in 2 days.
No primer etc...

Hope this helps

Here are a few more pics. Sorry about the quality. Hopefully i ll get a real camera for Christmas.

Backdrop still hasnt arrived, but Turntable has.

Gonna finish the basic ground cover first, then like I said earlier wait until after Christmas to take my time and detail it up.


































Last edited by Patrick H
Thanks guys !! I have 60 of the N&W MTHhoppers 8 atlas now. And Mark yes i seen the ones on the bay, Im watching to make an lower offer later. 130 is what i ve been payin. I think that is plenty for now. I think the front 12 will now have to weighted to not flip coming up around the mountain 2.2% grade.

Of course theirs always the shows.LOL
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