Legacy setup failed

Are you sure you have the Legacy wire connected to the outside rail?

It should not matter at all if the transformer (common) connection and Legacy wire connection are going to the same Lockon post as long as that post is connected to the outside rail.

What kind of transformer are you using?

Thank you Alan for the quick response.  Yes, the legacy wire is hooked up to the #2 post, outside rail as shown in the video. My legacy base and controller was just updated by the Lionel service center in OHIO two weeks ago. FYI it is very hard to get two wires in the small hole.  Seems that there is only room for one wire but I did get a smaller wire from the legacy base to go in.

Very frustrating!!!

Its not the engine since I tried two different Legacy engines with the same result (18 volts going to the track)

The legacy controller seems to be working properly, I select engine 1 and press the bottom icon in the left  section of the pad.  It switches to the legacy icon pad but the engine does not come to life.

 The one wire hookup can connect anywhere on the layout as long as it is connected to the outer/ common rail. It does not necessarily have to be connected at the lockon. Did you address the locomotive and push the startup icon on the remote. The latest legacy locos do not light up or anything until they are addressed.

You can use a second lock on and just hook the one wire to the outside rail or hook the one wire to the "U" post of the transformer instead.

Again what kind of transformer are you using?

Hello Marty.  I'm using the 200 watt per channel MTH Z4000, thint that is the right designation.  Working fine in conventional mode, shut down and add the one wire legacy hook up, turn on the Legacy base and then add 18 volts to the track and "nothing".

I will get a second lock on tomorrow and advise.

You can hook the one wire to the U post of the transformer.

The only reason I asked what power supply is because you said no lights and the newer ZWs would need to be addressed and dialed the voltage up.

So with everything hooked up when you get a chance lets confirm that you do have 18v to the track.  Then tell us a few things.

What is the address of the engine you set using the PGM/RUN procedure?

How are you addressing the engine using the Legacy remote.

Stay patient we'll all help you get going.

Rick, after everything is turned on I select "engine" then Press the 1 button and then the start up icon and nothing happens.  The pad does change to the legacy icons.

Is the engine set as 1 using the PGM/RUN procedure outlined in the locomotive manual?

I know these are basic questions we are asking but we don't know what you have tried yet.

I'll give it another try now; at least the Pirates are winning.

Not sure what you mean about hooing up one wire to the U post of the transformer.  I'm only going with one wire from the legacy base to the ground terminal of the lock on.

You can go from the Legacy base to the common or 2 on the lock-on like you have done or the U or common post of the transformer.  It is electrically the same thing.

So on the drawing that is in the book, where it shows the one wire from the Legacy base going to the lock-on, it can be removed from the lock-on and attached to the transformer common. Or like Rick said anywhere on the common bus of the track.

OK, good news.  Added the legacy wire to the ground terminal on the lock on and nothing happened after selecting engine 1. 

 FYI this was a legacy engine purchased at last weeks Lionel service center open house in OHIO.  So I thought maybe they used the cab# for the ID number (think this was a referb) and gave it a try and you guessed it, the engine fired up like a champ.

Shut down and loaded the Legacy module and all is well.

Alan, Marty and Rick thank you for your help and patience; love LEGACY.

Will try the U post feature and may go with Gargraves track.

FYI the engine is the B&O EM-1

Way to go.  Never assume the ID is 1 especially when it came from another source including Lionel service.  They routinely change the ID so that they don't have to guess what you might have set it too.

Correct!  If a locomotive was repaired, or even test run by someone before you got it, it's entirely possible that the locomotive ID was set to a new number (usually the last two digits of the cab number, but could even be the first two digits or something else altogether).

Glad to hear you got her up and running.

Remember you can reset the engine ID to whatever you want without knowing the current ID. Just follow the directions in the manual. Handy when you are dealing with used engines. 

When I get a used engine, first thing I do is lube, add smoke fluid, and then program the ID.