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The Lionel 0-6-0 Docksider LC+2.0 is a great engine for the price point and can be modified some. I needed just a bit more speed out of mine but going too fast causes the chuffs to sound like a skipping CD. I don't know the details of why that is but it's all good. There's a way around it.

This is a permanent mod and it's probably not good for your warranty.

You will cut your chuff rate in half and that is less realistic. I didn't care because there really aren't a lot of people that even know there should be four chuffs per revolution. So it's all the same to me.

Step 1: Remove the screws that the red arrows are pointing at. There are plastic plates under your pickup rollers. They might stick to the rollers or they might need convinced to come out with an o-ring pick or small screwdriver. S1

Step 2: Lay your screws out approximately where they go. Then use that o-ring pick or a small screwdriver to pop the bottom plate (yellow arrow) off. My locomotive had a lot of grease under the plate and I spilled smoke fluid on it. So everything was oily and sticking together.

S2

Watch your hands here. The drivers are all free to pop upwards (towards you) now. That's not a major issue if it happens but pay attention to the orientation of the parts on the axle so you can figure out how to put it back together. The middle set of wheels are sprung and there is nothing besides grease holding the springs in place so you may very well pull the spring out if you pop the middle wheels up. I did. The spring came out and had to be carefully set back in its hole with a small pair of needle nose pliers.

Step 3: Hopefully you avoided popping the axles up. You'll now need that fancy little wrench that came with your locomotive that you probably threw away. I did. Take the bolts from the rear most drive wheels out (yellow arrow). There is a little bushing there (red arrow points at it). Don't lose that.

S3

Step 4: Now look where the green arrow is pointing in the picture below. I couldn't get a great picture but there is a black plastic piece therewith 4 little pegs sticking out of it. The pieces are on a ring that attaches to the axle. Each litte peg is spaced 90* apart. This is your chuff generator. You're going to cut two of these off. I recommend you get a small pair of needle nose pliers and grab one, then snip it off at the bottom where it meets the plastic ring that is on the axle. Do NOT cut that plastic ring that is on the axle. Otherwise you will have no chuff. You are only removing the part that is sticking out. There is a picture of what you should take off named S4-2. Once you clip off your first piece, you need to spin the axle 180* to cut the opposite piece off. So you make your cut, set that piece aside. Spin the axle so you skip the next little piece, then cut the piece after that. Hopefully I have explained that enough. Ask below if I didn't. You should have two pieces left on the ring, situated opposite each other (180*).

S4

Step 5: Now spin your axle backwards to get it to the position you started in so you can reattach your drive rods. Then reassemble everything you took off.

You'll have less chuffs when you put it back on the track. That will be less realistic but you'll be able to go a little faster without overwhelming the sound system. You'll also get a slightly pronounced puff of smoke at super slow speeds but it's not anything impressive, it's just an improvement.

You probably could glue the pegs back but I think it would be difficult. It would be particularly difficult if you didn't manage to de-grease the area.

But that's how I got a little bit more speed out of my 0-6-0 LC+2.0 locomotive. Now I gotta get new side rods (Lionel P/N: 620-8613-320), fix the pesky rear coupler, and detail the inside a bit. But those are projects for another day. Let me know if I wasn't clear anywhere.



Edit 2/22/2021: I added two videos. I tried to capture the smoke puff in one. It's subtle but there. The other just shows the chuff during operation. Excuse the chaotic test layout haha

Edit 2/27/2021: I remove the two videos and added a much better video. This video also includes the installed siderods that make it run better. Lionel P/N: 620-8613-320. Credit to @gunrunnerjohn for that part number.

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VID_20210226_173118152
Last edited by BillYo414
Original Post

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I happened across this and I'm actually considering the same mode for mine.  Although it's no speed demon, it does sound pretty silly pretty quickly when the chuffs suddenly break up and the sound gets all garbled.

I am impressed with the pulling power of this little guy, I hooked it up to seventeen tank cars and it made it all the way around the layout, including the 2.5% grade!  I really didn't think it would handle the grade, a pair of the RMT BEEP engines together couldn't pull the same seventeen tank cars up that grade!

I've grown to like the mod a lot more over time. I don't notice the missing chuffs anymore and I appreciate the small improvement in defined puffs of smoke. It's also nice to be able to cruise around a little faster without garbling the sound.

I would not have expected it to pull that many cars up a grade! I've put some die cast hot metal cars behind it and it pulls well but I figured that was peak performance.

This is a great post

From the videos I see on this locomotive it appears to be a great smoker which I am a fan of. I wondered why it didn't have synchronized chuffing smoke but that makes sense now.

I have no plans of doing mods to one but i found one new for $225.

Do you guys think it is a good locomotive for the price in the stock condition? I am a slow speed guy when I run trains and my layout has o31 curves.

Brad

There has been discussion previously about the shortcomings of 4 chuffs with small switchers, I think. The idea was that 4 chuffs, which everyone seems to want, may not be the best thing in case of small steamers, with small wheels, where the machine gun staccato sound of 4 chuffs can sound awful, and the sound gets all garbled, which appears to be the case here.

Speaking of pesky couplers on these things, I've had that in spades. Finally got the rear one to work (not quite sure how - disassembled and reassembled several times, exchanged parts, did some sanding, etc. etc., and all of a sudden it started working, for no apparent reason. The front coupler, which had worked, stopped working. Got replacement parts, and it still won't work. It buzzes, but won't open. I just left it, but will have to revisit this at some point.

Last edited by breezinup
@B rad posted:

This is a great post

From the videos I see on this locomotive it appears to be a great smoker which I am a fan of. I wondered why it didn't have synchronized chuffing smoke but that makes sense now.

I have no plans of doing mods to one but i found one new for $225.

Do you guys think it is a good locomotive for the price in the stock condition? I am a slow speed guy when I run trains and my layout has o31 curves.

Brad

It's a pretty good deal at the price, fan driven smoke, cruise control, good sound, electrocouplers on both ends, etc.  I have a couple of them, neat little switcher.

I am planning on dropping the bottom plate and nipping two of the nodes off the chuff switch cam to slow down the chuffing, I think that will improve the sound for very little work.

@B rad Thanks! I think it's a great little locomotive for the price. It can really do some pulling on level layouts for its size although I've been told it's hard on the motor. It is a great smoker and the sound is good. It doesn't necessarily creep around the layout like the bigger steamers do but it still can move pretty slow. You would be wise to buy the better siderods for it. That improves slow speeds and overall running. It's cheap and very easy! The part number is around the forum here somewhere. You really not notice the chuff rate reduction and the gain in speed was worth it for me. But I suppose you'll be plenty happy if you run them slow.



@breezinup I would almost consider the phase of the moon to affect the coupler function on these locomotives. Mine will work fine for weeks and then go on a two week streak of not working. It's weird!! I haven't taken mine apart or anything. It really hasn't been that much of an issue. Still a great engine!

I would be careful how you load the little locomotive, the very small set motor in this one isn't up to a lot of loading.  I've replaced a number of the tiny flat-sided set motors in various locomotives over the years.  It's by far the most common motor failure I see.

I'll be interested to see how it does with cyclical loading. The locomotive pulls two or three hoppers and that hasn't been an issue. But I do ask it to push those hoppers up a 4% grade.

So far no problem. I suspect it will be worth getting an extra motor on hand though.

It does get hot when I put 11 cars on it and run it for a new minutes. Not sure if that's motor or smoke unit though.

Hello again,

I got my LC+ 2.0 0-6-0t. It runs wonderfully.

I was expecting some wobble at slow speeds but had none. It did jerk a little at first but broke in fine.

I looked up the upgraded side rod part number provided here (620-8613-320). What does this do?

When I look the part number up it seems to be the stock replacement according to lionels website?

Am I missing something with the side rod replacement?

I have only run it for 5 or 10 minutes so far.

Smokes great!

Brad

Good deal @B rad. Glad it runs well. Mine has a funny gait when it runs but it doesn't bother me much.

The side rod has tighter holes (and circular I believe) for the drive wheels. This removes some slop in the linkage and helps the locomotive run better. I would have to look if that number is correct and I can check that when I get some time.

They're great little locomotives in my opinion!

Here's my slightly altered procedure, I skipped taking rods off, that helps with not pulling the wheels out of the frame.



The little Lionel LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T Docksider is a cool little locomotive and a good deal at a street price a little over $200. Cruise, RailSounds, TMCC/Bluetooth/LC Universal remote control, fan driven smoke, electrocouplers, etc. One thing does bug me about the factory configuration, and I never thought I'd hear myself say this, but the 4-chuffs/rev are too much. Actually, it's what happens at a fairly slow speed to the sound that's too much, suddenly the chuffs get garbled and, quite frankly, sound like crap! This is one of the few examples where in the case of the chuff rate, less is better.

Time to fix that! The whole mod takes about five minutes or so, so it's not what I consider an onerous task!

The intended victim ready for the mod.LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N1.png


First step, remove the two pickups. The insulators sometimes come with them and sometimes stick to the gear cover. No matter, they just set in place during reassembly.

LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N2.png


Remove the six gear cover screws, Note the locations indicated by the red arrows. Also, note the screws indicated by the green arrows, the center set of screws are smaller than the other four. Don't mix up the screws, make sure you get them in the correct places.

LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N3.png


Gently pick up the gear cover. Note that during this step, do NOT disturb the wheels or lift them out. The center wheels are spring loaded and have a small spring under the floating bearings that is easily lost. You just want to leave all of this stuff in place.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N4.png


One of the four little prongs on the axle will be exposed, carefully cut it off with flush cutting cutters. Be careful not to cut the base of the prong that circles the axle, just the actual prong.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N5.png


Using a small screwdriver that just wedges into the hole in the worm gear, carefully rotate the drive wheels 1/2 a turn to expose the opposite prong of the hall effect sensor triggers.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N6.png


Using the flush cutters again, cut that prong off like the one on the opposite side.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N7.png

Reassemble in reverse order and you're done!

After the mod, you can run at more prototypical speeds with decent chuff sounds. If you crank up the speed, it'll still garble the chuffs, but at least it's more usable now with decent sound.

@BillYo414 posted:

Good deal @B rad. Glad it runs well. Mine has a funny gait when it runs but it doesn't bother me much.

The side rod has tighter holes (and circular I believe) for the drive wheels. This removes some slop in the linkage and helps the locomotive run better. I would have to look if that number is correct and I can check that when I get some time.

They're great little locomotives in my opinion!

Thanks BillYo414. I would like to know. I don't have much run time so if it starts to act up I would love to upgrade the side rods if it helps. The part number 620-8613-320 comes up at Hennings and Lionel as 0-6-0t switcher side rods and I do not see others so I assume they are the stock rods. I will say that on Lionels website they show up as an older model replacement so maybe the older side rods are better and fit the LC+ 2.0 0-6-0t's? Not sure.

Brad

Here's my slightly altered procedure, I skipped taking rods off, that helps with not pulling the wheels out of the frame.



The little Lionel LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T Docksider is a cool little locomotive and a good deal at a street price a little over $200. Cruise, RailSounds, TMCC/Bluetooth/LC Universal remote control, fan driven smoke, electrocouplers, etc. One thing does bug me about the factory configuration, and I never thought I'd hear myself say this, but the 4-chuffs/rev are too much. Actually, it's what happens at a fairly slow speed to the sound that's too much, suddenly the chuffs get garbled and, quite frankly, sound like crap! This is one of the few examples where in the case of the chuff rate, less is better.

Time to fix that! The whole mod takes about five minutes or so, so it's not what I consider an onerous task!

The intended victim ready for the mod.LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N1.png


First step, remove the two pickups. The insulators sometimes come with them and sometimes stick to the gear cover. No matter, they just set in place during reassembly.

LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N2.png


Remove the six gear cover screws, Note the locations indicated by the red arrows. Also, note the screws indicated by the green arrows, the center set of screws are smaller than the other four. Don't mix up the screws, make sure you get them in the correct places.

LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N3.png


Gently pick up the gear cover. Note that during this step, do NOT disturb the wheels or lift them out. The center wheels are spring loaded and have a small spring under the floating bearings that is easily lost. You just want to leave all of this stuff in place.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N4.png


One of the four little prongs on the axle will be exposed, carefully cut it off with flush cutting cutters. Be careful not to cut the base of the prong that circles the axle, just the actual prong.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N5.png


Using a small screwdriver that just wedges into the hole in the worm gear, carefully rotate the drive wheels 1/2 a turn to expose the opposite prong of the hall effect sensor triggers.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N6.png


Using the flush cutters again, cut that prong off like the one on the opposite side.
LC+ 0-6-0T Chuff Reduction N7.png

Reassemble in reverse order and you're done!

After the mod, you can run at more prototypical speeds with decent chuff sounds. If you crank up the speed, it'll still garble the chuffs, but at least it's more usable now with decent sound.

Thanks GRJ, do you get syncronized chuffing smoke at slow speeds with this mod or is the smoke still constant?

Brad

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