Lionel Flying Yankee #616 - nickel plating DIY

I think it looks GREAT!  Get that baby together and get it on the tracks. These are great runners.

But what do you think? After all, it is your train.

CHIRSS, thing looks great as is!

Chris S.

I'm not sure if to polish it more for higher gloss ( closer to chrome look) or leave like this.
I think i like both.

It does look good.  What kind of plating equipment are you using?  Is it really expensive?

Chirss posted:

Sharing first results of diy nickel plating of my FY #616.

40 min of nickel plating 5V, 1A
5 min wheel buffing in Turtle wax rubbing compound
5 min wheel buffing in Turtle wax polisher 
5 min of hand polishing in Flitz
10 min of hand polishing in Meguiars auto wax

Do you think it needs more or keep it as is (semi gloss)?

Chirss

Looks fantastic. What did you use as the nickel source metal?

Jim

Nickel plating:
Acetate making and plating procedure is from YT videos like the one below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-PtnwtOR24

My setup cost me so far approx $80

- Bench LAB Digital DC Power Supply  30V/5A  with adjustable current and voltage = $40
 (to keep approx 1A of current while plating) 
Ebay example:
(https://www.ebay.com/p/30v-5a-...586?iid=222410060720

- 3 pieces of pure nickel plates 10cm x10cm , 1 mm thick - ebay (China) = $21
Please note that 1 plate is needed as sacrificial for making acetate solution, 2 remaining ones to be used for plating.
Thicker plates last longer. 
Ebay example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-...p2057872.m2749.l2649


- 2 GAL Cleaning vinegar - Home depot = $8
- 1 GAL Muriatic Acid 30% - Home depot  =$7  (just needed for parts cleaning)
- GAL Distilled water - $3  (just needed for parts cleaning - rinse)
-  2 x 4 GAL plastic container (1 for plating 1 for rinse) =$5 

Many people recommends to use fish tank pump for agitation and heater for acetate temp control (I didn't try it yet) 
All I did so far was in unheated garage. Plated part was agitated manually for even plating. All took me approx  40 min total. 

I think you can add to cost all of automotive polishing stuff needed: good microfiber rugs, compounds like: Flitz, Turtle Wax Rubbing and polishing compound, Wax ...etc. In my case each part needed good polishing after plating.

"In my case each part needed good polishing after plating."

If you are looking for shinier finish product, I would suggest doing some polishing BEFORE you do your plating. That's what we have to do in the Plastic Injection Mold industry. Then of course you have to polish and buff after plating too for that real mirror like surface. 

This does look great and your cost is very reasonable. Not far from me is Caswell plating. They offer all types of plating kits but most all will cost considerably more. I have one of their Plug and Plate kits for doing small parts like side rods and valve gear but I don't think it would give as good a finish as you achieved on larger surfaces.

https://www.caswellplating.com

A few tips, as pointed out polish the item first. You will be able to use power buffers for a faster shine and you won't be removing the plating you just applied.

Also if you have a dehumidifier in your house the water it produces is distilled.

Keep up the good work.

Pete

Here is my another attempt - rusty #617 car - double door.
I got it from Ebay as damaged by rust and excessive sanding (or wire brushing).
All I did to it is rust cleaning in Evaporust, polishing flat surfaces with water and  (high grit) sand paper, then nickel plating, buffing/polishing...etc. 

Rust bite spots are still visible. I don't know how to make it look better. Maybe few another nickel coats and buffs ?
Smooth surface seems to be the key to great plating results.