Lionel Nuclear Reactor Problem- chute wont open far enough

Sounds like something hindering its movement or the mechanism is not synced where is is to supposed to be. I would find a parts sheet or find someone who has one and take a look inside.

You may want to check the U235 level also.

Which version do you have? Lionel part number?

yes, John has the idea...watch the mechanism that moves it. The 6-14065 looks like it has a wire arm that moves a lever to release the dump chute.

look at the housing sides for warping and rubbing against the chute

The other issue that arises is the drive gear cracks and it slips on the shaft. I don't believe that is your problem because the reactor stops operating when that occurs.

If you increase the voltage to it it  solves the problem. Mine does the same thing. I've been meaning to take it off to layout and look at it for a fix other than increasing the voltage but haven't gotten around to it for the last 5+ Years!

Hi All, thanks for the replies...especially check the uranium 235 level!

its the non-archive 6-24294 model. It appears the 24294 and the 14065 use the same mechanism as the part Lionel sells is exactly the same for both models, one white and red the other grey and red-exact same mechanisms. They both use the wire arm to open the door to drop the pellets into the chase area, it's the coil lift on the rod attached to the chute door that does not drop far enough to slide the pellets. The little mini "cat door" attached to the wire attached to the crank arm opens and closes the little pellet "cat door" and drops pellets against the chute door just fine....it's the unload button chute door, the final action, that is not opening far enough. I've tired two part changes...it's a modular design....and the coil does not pop open the door well enough. I'll try more voltage as suggested, I'm using a 90 amp transformer and giving it all she's got...perhaps therin lies the problem, not enough transformer juice to raise that rod high enough into the coil to open the chute slide door. I've dissected the modular part from Lionel ...only $20 and their is no way to internally tighten the actionable parts or adjust them to pop that chute door. More power....I'll try more power from the 275. 

 

As always I greatly appreciate the input, suggestions, and collective wisdom from the group. It takes a village to cause a nuclear meltdown...U235 - here we come!

ciao, j

P.S. I've scoured the net: the only parts diagram I could find was from Lionel replacement parts,which shows the entire modular part, mechanism and works sealed inside. I'd love an exploded diagram of the mechanical works but can't find one....yet!

I hate when my nuclear reactors go bad.  Especially since there are no user friendly parts.

Alan

Jstinson posted:

P.S. I've scoured the net: the only parts diagram I could find was from Lionel replacement parts,which shows the entire modular part, mechanism and works sealed inside. I'd love an exploded diagram of the mechanical works but can't find one....yet!

I have gone through the parts supplements and did not find the 6-14065. It is on the cusp of the end of the supplements which have some early 2000 items, but not the reactor.

A forum search yielded many threads on the gear and one on the light. One did mention modifying or shaving something to make the chute to move, but that was due to warping.

The newer than 2K service documents are still dealer only or not available.

Since yours is the newer model, it should require only 14-15 volts, since the internal board is controlling everything. It's a very low amperage draw.

I wonder, now that Mike Reagan is not at Lionel, who will know about these issues.

 

Jstinson posted:

I'm using a 90 amp transformer and giving it all she's got...perhaps therin lies the problem, not enough transformer juice to raise that rod high enough into the coil to open the chute slide door

ciao, j

I hope you mean 90 watt! 

I had the same problem with my original issue reactor when connected to a SC2 for command operation.  But when connected to the supplied controller for manual operation it works just fine?

I let the Grandkids operate it with the controller.  They really like it.

erps...90 watt, Slight boo boo there...just slight. I'd have to change my user name to Sparky the other way.

I'm all manual, no command so not sure why that differed-it's got to be something about the power delivered to the coil to raise the metal dowel connected to the chute door high enough. I even tried rotating the arm connecting the two 45 degrees, but then the part won't fit back in place. I'm happy for your grandkids...I bet they love it!

Thanks for the assurance diagrams are not yet to be found. My next thought is to include some heavier "isotopes: i.e. colored ball bearings whose weight might just help get that chute down and open enough to allow the light ones to slide. Not sure why I'm perseverating on this so much, the reactor was not cheap and I want the controller to work the door properly....it loses a lot of the magic and wow factor having to lean way far over and prod it along with a finger.  It's like having to push n prod a loco a bunch of times to get it going...no fun.

Thanks for the help and when I conquer the non-popping nuke chute, I'll be certain to post how it was accomplished. Power of positive thinking. Cheers, U235 John

Sounds like some kind of cap on the rod might extend it enough to do its work properly...it kind of depends on whether the coil is lacking the torque, or throw distance to work the door. Torque issues should be power related; constant travel and final position mechanical.

MartyE posted:

Jstinson posted:

I'm using a 90 amp transformer and giving it all she's got...perhaps therin lies the problem, not enough transformer juice to raise that rod high enough into the coil to open the chute slide door

ciao, j

I hope you mean 90 watt! 

Marty, as on Star Trek "Lots more power Scotty!"

Can you say TMI?  Three Mile Island.  It is just down the road from me.

Well in case anyone is still interested. Finally got around to taking mine apart. First thing I did as you can see in the picture was sanding down the housing next to the chute. It was actually binding ever-so-slightly. Helped, but still wouldn't lower the door all the way. I then realized that the spring on the solenoid plunger that Lionel put into ensure that the door retracted was putting too much tension on the upward stroke of the solenoid rod. The weight of the rod, as well as the cast connector arm are plenty heavy to lower the piston and raise the door. So I removed the spring as you can see in the second picture. Bingo! Works perfect every time. The door goes all the way down.

Thanks for fix tip and taking the time to come back and post it.

And here it is in operation. I don't have the fuel car on the track or the fuel loaded. But you can see the operation.

Love the panic button!!!