LIONEL PREWAR 223 SWITCH TO A PREWAR 76 BLOCK SIGNAL

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish but you did use insulated pins on the switch? 

outside tracks are insulated.  do you know if the 76 block signal alternates sides. by the present wiring I see nothing other than two wires going from the base to the lights

j. constible posted:

outside tracks are insulated.  do you know if the 76 block signal alternates sides. by the present wiring I see nothing other than two wires going from the base to the lights

There are three terminals. One is the common, which uses a ground to the base. The two wires must be one for each light. You should be able to alternate it somehow.

George

This is fairly complex to get done... are you looking for turnout indication, occupancy detection, or something else?

George S posted:

j. constible posted:

outside tracks are insulated.  do you know if the 76 block signal alternates sides. by the present wiring I see nothing other than two wires going from the base to the lights

There are three terminals. One is the common, which uses a ground to the base. The two wires must be one for each light. You should be able to alternate it somehow.

George

pics

George S posted:

j. constible posted:

outside tracks are insulated.  do you know if the 76 block signal alternates sides. by the present wiring I see nothing other than two wires going from the base to the lights

There are three terminals. One is the common, which uses a ground to the base. The two wires must be one for each light. You should be able to alternate it somehow.

George

pics

Rob English posted:

This is fairly complex to get done... are you looking for turnout indication, occupancy detection, or something else?

as the switch changes, I would like the to switch

Agree with Rob but here's a photo of an original box pulled from the web (no longer able to find the source) hope it helps. On a straight run- one outside rail needs insulated in addition to insulated pins.  Hopefully you can see the image ok

John H. Shetler posted:

Agree with Rob but here's a photo of an original box pulled from the web (no longer able to find the source) hope it helps. On a straight run- one outside rail needs insulated in addition to insulated pins.  Hopefully you can see the image ok

thank ya kindly, I thought I could hook it directly to the 223 switch and as the switch changes, so does the light on the 76

j. constible posted:

Rob English posted:

This is fairly complex to get done... are you looking for turnout indication, occupancy detection, or something else?

as the switch changes, I would like the to switch

Problem with this is the power to change the switch is momentary. You would need the power  routing relay set up for turnout direction.   John showed the occupancy detection circuit.

j. constible posted:

Rob English posted:

This is fairly complex to get done... are you looking for turnout indication, occupancy detection, or something else?

as the switch changes, I would like the to switch

The screw on the bottom of the picture that does not have a fiber washer is the common. Both lights use this and the electricity travels through the metal of the base and pole. The wires are for each light.

George

turnout indicator

In wiring things like a 156 block signal. The center post is the hot and the outside post is common. Momentary motor does not matter as center is switch, track power or accessory. The commons should be for each light individually.

F&G RY posted:

 Momentary motor does not matter as center is switch, track power or accessory. The commons should be for each light individually.

How do you route the power to each lights conductor then? Its easy if you wire for blocks- you can tie the light directly to each block, but it will not be automatic...which JConstible is looking for. The switch machine power is momentary and will not work as a source UNLESS you add power routing for the 76 lights.  The light on the switch is constant on, from track power, but there is no way to use that in an automatic set up.  Beside, any modification to the switch wiring means removing the back of the switch... not good. That the structure of the 76 OR the wires can be used as the common has no impact except for ease of connection.

There would always be power to both light bulbs. What turns each bulb on is the common from the switch. The bulb lit is the same thing as the lit bulb on the switch controller. Three posts for controller. center is hot. outer 2 open and close. Only one common activated at a time or switch will flutter.

Jim C.... I apologize, and humbly eat a big pile of crow at your feet.  You are spot on.  

I  got the bright idea to test you wrong....guess who was wrong???  LOL, I was. I was not reading your posts right either.

J Constible...Just wire the 76 direct to the posts on the switch for the controller.  A to the center post, Each B to the corresponding outer posts. Simple as that.

Geez-o-pete.  Crow doesn't taste all that good.

Rob English posted:

Jim C.... I apologize, and humbly eat a big pile of crow at your feet.  You are spot on.  

I  got the bright idea to test you wrong....guess who was wrong???  LOL, I was. I was not reading your posts right either.

J Constible...Just wire the 76 direct to the posts on the switch for the controller.  A to the center post, Each B to the corresponding outer posts. Simple as that.

Geez-o-pete.  Crow doesn't taste all that good.

Well, I’m with you. It sure seems backward that hot is through the frame and ‘common’ to both bulbs, but I understand why it works. It’s a neat solution. I’ll share your crow.😟 

George 

Aw shucks Rob, if everyone was always right it'd be a perfect world and we all know that ain't happening. ..look at it this way - J Constible and probably others got a better understanding of how to do.....

John H. Shetler posted:

Aw shucks Rob, if everyone was always right it'd be a perfect world and we all know that ain't happening. ..look at it this way - J Constible and probably others got a better understanding of how to do.....

At least I (and others) got something out of it!

Back to rinsing now...