THE SECOND TRY FOR THE PHOTOS...

 

I am posting a few pictures of my ongoing experiments with magnets and Kadee #5 couplers.  I have been able to overcome the trouble I was having with Flyer link couplers with metal weights.  Each of the following solutions works well, that is, has no problem with Flyer links sticking to the magnets.

 

First up is what I hope will be what I end up using because of cost (always a big thing with me).  It has two magnets (J&K number BX841) that are 1½” x ¼” x 1/16” separated by ½”.  The BX841s are $1.10 each making for a $2.20 uncoupler... I like that.  The ties are .03” cardboard, the magnets are colored to show polarity (black – north & red – south) and the rail is .138” SHS flex.  That places the magnets .168” below the rail head.  I tried .06” ties and found the .03” difference really made a big difference with the performance of the couplers… it short it didn’t work.

 

I am finding this solution marginal in that my Kadees don’t all perform the same.  Some work beautifully while others don’t.  I expect my lack of experience with the Kadees accounts for this -- I hope --- because I do like how this all goes together. .  I have included a second picture showing how the couplers respond to the delayed action.  Please note that one of the cars has scale wheels while the other has Hi-rail wheels.

 

 IMG_1539IMG_1550

 

 

 

 

 

Next up is the same arrangement but with 3/8” between the magnets.  It is still .168” below the rail head.  I think the extra 1/8” of the first example is better to pull the Kadees over for delayed uncoupling.  I also didn’t add the ties.  This was my first experiment.  I can add 1/16 x 1/16 styrene to change the separation between the magnets.

 

IMG_1541IMG_1542

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the last one and perhaps the fallback position.  This are B822, ½” x 1/8” x 1/8” mounted on .02” sheet metal.  The B822s are $.43 each but  10 are needed so the cost per uncoupler is $4.30.  They are too strong as you will see by the photo.  Although I have not had a problem with the couplers being pulled this far apart, they just don’t fit into each other’s pocket.  I have ordered some B422, ¼” x 1/8” x 1/8” magnets with the hope they won’t be so over the top.  The cost of the B422s is $.27 each or $2.70 per uncoupler.  If they work it would be afforadable.

 

 IMG_1540IMG_1546

 

 

I have also ordered some wider magnet that the BX841 thinking they might provide a bit more pull to get the balky Kadees to pull apart.  The wider magnets are $2.00 each for a $4.00 uncoupler – more than I would like to spend, but if that is what works, then so be it.

 

I haven’t played with AM .148” rail yet and I hope that the .010” difference doesn’t cause a problem.  I have to say I was surprised that .030” did make a difference.  People who aren’t going to run Flyer link couplers across their magnets will find much easier solutions and for the ones using like code 100 or small rail ,I think you could just add a pair of 1½” x 1/8” x 1/16” magnets on top of you ties… be sure to glue them in place.  I have found that 1½” long uncoupler is an easy target to land on even without DCC.

 

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I am very much interested in your project, wish the pics would have come through. I am using Gilbert Flyer track and have installed Kadees on about half of my rolling stock.

Can you tell us the company is that sells the magnets you are using, I don't know what J&K is, need more info.

Thanks

Ray

 

>> Can you tell us the company is that sells the magnets you are using, I don't know what J&K is, need more info.

 

Click here:   http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ 

 

Read the material VERY carefully or else you might order the wrong magnet by accident.  The direction of magnetism needs to be correct.  You will not want the "poles" to be at the ends of the magnet.  You DO want the "poles" to be along the length of the magnet.  Neat stuff...... Ed L.

Ed Loizeaux, San Francisco Bay Area

Originally Posted by Ed Loizeaux:

 

>> Can you tell us the company is that sells the magnets you are using, I don't know what J&K is, need more info.

 

Click here:   http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ 

 

Read the material VERY carefully or else you might order the wrong magnet by accident.  The direction of magnetism needs to be correct.  You will not want the "poles" to be at the ends of the magnet.  You DO want the "poles" to be along the length of the magnet.  Neat stuff...... Ed L.

Thanks Ed

Ray

Try using graphite on the couplers to improve performance.

 

I have a friend in Ho that has been using neodymium magnets successfully.

He gets disc shaped ones and puts them on top of the ties.

Approximately 1/8" in diameter and he paints them to match the ties.

Rich Olszewski


If at first you DO succeed,try hard to hide your astonishment.

Hi Rich,

 

Was your friend’s layout just in Great Model Railroads 2015?  The lead story shows a layout where the gentlemen is doing just that.  I did try and was happy with it until the Flyer link coupler with the metal weight tried to cross the magnet.  The train froze in place… neodymium magnets are quite strong.  I also would prefer to have the magnet hidden.  But if you are not running Flyer link and don’t care about the magnet being on top of the ties, it all becomes much easier.

 

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Originally Posted by Tom Stoltz:

Hi Rich,

 

Was your friend’s layout just in Great Model Railroads 2015?  The lead story shows a layout where the gentlemen is doing just that.  I did try and was happy with it until the Flyer link coupler with the metal weight tried to cross the magnet.  The train froze in place… neodymium magnets are quite strong.  I also would prefer to have the magnet hidden.  But if you are not running Flyer link and don’t care about the magnet being on top of the ties, it all becomes much easier.

 

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

 No.  He wasn't in the magazine but he could be.  The magnets are available in all different diameters and heights.  Since you are willing to use cardboard ties, you could find slightly larger ones to use concealed.  I have square ones that are close to the thickness of card stock.

 

20141128_213728[1]

Rich Olszewski


If at first you DO succeed,try hard to hide your astonishment.

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Originally Posted by Tom Stoltz:

Ray & Ed,

 

The pictures didn't come though?  They are here when I open the thread.  Please let me know and I will try again...

I'm new to the posting pictures part.

 

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Thank you again Tom, the pictures did come through for me also. I am anxious to try some of these magnets with the Kadees also on my Gilbert track. 

Ray

 

I think I have finally found the magnet combinations that I find most reliable.  I have experimented with many different magnets… all are from K&J Magnets and all are N42 neodymium magnets.

 

The easiest to install in existing track work is the B422.  It is1/4”x1/8”x1/8” $.27ea and I use 10 per uncoupler or $2.70/uncoupler.  The magnets are installed in between the ties of SHS flex, mounted on .005 steel with 3/8” wide styrene to keep them separated.  They are flush with the top of the ties so hiding the magnets should be no problem at all.

 

The reaction of the B422 is very good and delayed uncoupling being equally good, maybe just the slightest pull on steel wheels and no pull on Flyer link couplers (a plus for me).  Five magnets per side gives you about 1 3/8” worth of target area and even with my Flyer 0-8-0 operating on DC, I found this to be quite adequate.

 

IMG_1629

 

 

Another useful magnet size is the BX024.  It is 1”x1/8”x1/4” $1.23 ea. or $2.46/uncoupler.  Because it is 1/4” thick, it fits pretty well under the ties on track that is on some sort of roadbed.  It the picture I squeezed it under AM flex on 3/16” cork roadbed.  The space in between the magnets is 3/8”.  I have it on a strip of .005 sheet stock for ease of installation.  This is a very strong magnet yet is has no effect of steel wheels or Flyer link couplers.

 

 

IMG_1632

 

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a link that Ed L sent to another thread:

 

http://nmramcrdiv10.yolasite.c...coupling%20Color.pdf 

 

You will find some very good ideas on dual magnet uncoupling.  The model RR is H0 and appears in Great Model Railroads 2015

 

I also googled “dual magnet uncoupling” and found many additional links and uTube videos.

 

This has been a fun adventure,

 

Tom Stoltz

in still snowing, Maine

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