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Hello, I am kinda new to DCS,I've been running MTH trains foe a couple years now.One thing I cannot figure out,is how to run my postwar engines using the remote to control their speed.  I have a 135 watt Lionel Brick running through a Lionel Powermaster,and then running to FIXED 1 input. 

Do I need to run another power(brick) to Variable 1 input???,and is it fine to leave the first brick hooked into Fixed 1,while I run in conventional???

How is this done???I have scrolled through the "MORE" softkeys and found the place where it says Conventional Mode on the remote.Is this how it is done?I have tried it this way,and it did not work properly.

What else needs to be done?Anything???  I can run another 135 brick to variable 1 input,and just leave the fixed 1 inout brick still connected to the TIU correct???

Should I run AUX power to the TIU?,using a Z-750 brick? ,then try to go into conventional mode? 

I just would like to run my conventional stuff on the same setup,use the remote to control the voltage to the conventional engine,that is all.  I have never been able to figure this out yet.I've gotten close,but I need some advice on how to do this. 

Thank You Very Much,have fun!!!!

Run your trains!!!!!Don't jut let them sit there.Unless you are a serious collector,run them as often as you can.Build that layout.Stop talking and making excuses why you can't do it. 

What?Are you just going to save your trains for someone else to enjoy,after we all leave this place???RUN YOUR TRAINS!!!! I fall back in LOVE with every engine I have,everytime I run it again,and remember why I wanted it to begin with!!!!!

God Bless,KennyB

Last edited by kennyb
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With Proto 2 upgrade kits, the original lighting board from the PS1 is still used. I'm not sure if PS3 is that way. What your seeing with the lights may be normal. You sometimes do have control of the headlight only. I usually tie into the old smoke unit switch and use it to be able to shut those lights off if I want to. As far as it shutting down upon movement, it sounds like it's loosing power to the board. Try starting it up and while it's sitting idle, touch the tether and move it around a bit, to see if there is a bad connection.

Last edited by Dave Zucal

Like mentioned above the headlight works off of the original constant voltage board.

I had a messed up chain file which caused the engine to run in reverse and the headlight and backup light function were messed up.

I got a good copy from MTH.  They admitted that some steam chain files were wrong or not installed. Anyway it fixed my problem.

I've attached the steam version give it a try. Can't hurt. 

The DCS 5.0 loader will open the zip file and install all items. Use the FLASH icon.

 

Regards,

Mike

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The question at the top doesn't match the replies below it. 

As to the question above, use variable 1 instead of fixed 1.  Control conventional through the remote by raising & lowering track voltage.  When running DCS, simply set the voltage to 17 or so and run normally.

You'll either have to power the tiu through AUX or run a jumper frm variable 1 input to fixed 1 input,

kennyb posted:

Hello, I am kinda new to DCS,I've been running MTH trains foe a couple years now.One thing I cannot figure out,is how to run my postwar engines using the remote to control their speed.  I have a 135 watt Lionel Brick running through a Lionel Powermaster,and then running to FIXED 1 input. 

Do I need to run another power(brick) to Variable 1 input???,and is it fine to leave the first brick hooked into Fixed 1,while I run in conventional???

How is this done???I have scrolled through the "MORE" softkeys and found the place where it says Conventional Mode on the remote.Is this how it is done?I have tried it this way,and it did not work properly.

What else needs to be done?Anything???  I can run another 135 brick to variable 1 input,and just leave the fixed 1 inout brick still connected to the TIU correct???

Should I run AUX power to the TIU?,using a Z-750 brick? ,then try to go into conventional mode? 

I just would like to run my conventional stuff on the same setup,use the remote to control the voltage to the conventional engine,that is all.  I have never been able to figure this out yet.I've gotten close,but I need some advice on how to do this. 

Thank You Very Much,have fun!!!!

Run your trains!!!!!Don't jut let them sit there.Unless you are a serious collector,run them as often as you can.Build that layout.Stop talking and making excuses why you can't do it. 

What?Are you just going to save your trains for someone else to enjoy,after we all leave this place???RUN YOUR TRAINS!!!! I fall back in LOVE with every engine I have,everytime I run it again,and remember why I wanted it to begin with!!!!!

God Bless,KennyB

you really should have started a new topic!!!

Gentlemen,

RJR is right the title to this thread does not match the body, confusing thread for sure.

   I recommend you invest in Barry's DCS O Gauge Companion Book, it covers in depth exactly what you need to due to run your Conventional Engines via DCS HHRC.  Further the OGR DCS Video guide Eric talks about also gives you this educational information, so if you are a visual learner it's just fantastic.

Eric's video is a great starting point for running your Conventional Engines via DCS.  I also like to recommend running Conventional Engines with the Z4K Transformer and the Side Receiver via the TR mode on the HHRC.  This opens another Conventional Running Option and operates your conventional engines smoother than you ever dreamed possible, due to the Z4K's engineering.

I highly recommend both these educational formats for running DCS.

PCRR/Dave

DSCN1127

 

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

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