My answer to overpriced PS2 3 volt battery options

But I've read that if  BCR happens to fail the board is toast.

That's simply not true as regards PS2 3 volt engines.

Barry Broskowitz posted:

But I've read that if  BCR happens to fail the board is toast.

That's simply not true as regards PS23 volt engines.

Barry,

Tell me more please. For example: What would Happen if I tried running the engine without a battery, near dead battery or a BCR that failed mid-run? 

Ponz

I found some 1.5F caps for a couple dollars, so this is a replacement for the 3V battery that costs far less than replacing the batteries!

Ponz posted:

Barry Broskowitz posted:

But I've read that if  BCR happens to fail the board is toast.

That's simply not true as regards PS23 volt engines.

Barry,

Tell me more please. For example: What would Happen if I tried running the engine without a battery, near dead battery or a BCR that failed mid-run? 

Ponz

without a battery,

would run but shut down on any power problem area, no changes would stick

near dead battery

All kinds of fun there. Might not run, might not even show up.

or a BCR that failed mid-run

?? What does this mean? Basically see no battery above or explode if you mean total failure!  220v applied?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I found some 1.5F caps for a couple dollars, so this is a replacement for the 3V battery that costs far less than replacing the batteries!

Where can I get one for $1 delivered?  Six of the holders ran me $6 delivered?  I already had the batteries.

Have a link?

Ponz

I don't give links to nonsense questions.   If I already had the caps, these would have been about 20 cents for the connector and the little hank of wire.   Since the caps were $1.30/ea, clearly you can't do one of these for a dollar.  Duh, you can't buy two NiMh batteries and the holder for a dollar either.

You guys are comparing apples to oranges. The operation of GRJ Supercap is not equivalent to using batteries.

Just wait until the batteries die.

What would Happen if I tried running the engine without a battery, near dead battery or a BCR that failed mid-run?

It would run fine until it had a split-second power outage. Then, it would drop into conventional mode in neutral.

GRJ Supercap?? What?? He invented the Supercap too

Funny post, you realize that is what MTH used for some early PS-2 3V especially 1 Gauge and some early PR steam?

If a supercap fails as a short, or the leads where crossed in manufacture (there was a batch that got out that way) the Power Supply board will see that short and burn up the charging circuit or more.  Usually repairable unless left alone and the traces burn up.   Pretty rare put it can happen.  G

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I don't give links to nonsense questions.   If I already had the caps, these would have been about 20 cents for the connector and the little hank of wire.   Since the caps were $1.30/ea, clearly you can't do one of these for a dollar.  Duh, you can't buy two NiMh batteries and the holder for a dollar either.

John,

I have searched the web up one side and own the other. Yes, the connector can be had for 22 cents at DigiKey but the shipping was eight dollars (for one or a handful).  J&W wants 30 bucks (complete).

I couldn't find a link, anywhere on this forum, where I could buy a BCR for under 2 bucks and a connector for 22 cents - otherwise I would have jumped on it. 

I would have thought that with all the combined resources on this forum and access to reasonable prices, someone would have a bunch of these made up for sale.

I popped for BCRs years ago and have been 100% happy with them. Money well spent  as compared to risking damage from experimenting.

Jim

I found this link posted by Geroge (GGG) from five years ago. I currently have only TWO engines that require batteries and find this the most sound advice.

I think the best answer to this is not to panic.  If you have a small fleet, just keep a small record of when the battery was installed.  At the 4-5 year point I would replace it with new, or go BCR if you chose.

For PS1 or PS-2 5V with the 8.4V I would stay on top of battery age and just replace at the 4-5 year point regardless of how it is running.

 For PS-2 3V with the 2.4V battery, they last upward of 7 years and are not critical at all.  I would wait until it wasn't supporting a charge before I replaced it.

 For PS-1 newer engines 1997 and up.  Even with a dead battery chances are you won't scramble the processor.  If you do, it is easily reset by an MTH tech.

 For PS-2 5V I am more hesitant to let a battery sit.  Some of these boards are more fragile as it was the original design and some versions seem to die early.

 For PS-2 3V far more robust and not affected by battery issues unless a direct short.  Something a BCR can do too, if it fails.  G

Barry Broskowitz posted:

What would Happen if I tried running the engine without a battery, near dead battery or a BCR that failed mid-run?

It would run fine until it had a split-second power outage. Then, it would drop into conventional mode in neutral.

Barry - I only run in conventional mode.  So, am I to understand that I shouldn't have a worry in the world with either a PS1 9v battery or a PS2 2.4v battery?

Ponz

I only run in conventional mode.  So, am I to understand that I shouldn't have a worry in the world with either a PS1 9v battery or a PS2 2.4v battery?

No, that isn't the case.

If the engine's battery isn't sufficiently charged when running conventionally, a PS1 or PS2 engine will not be able to get out of neutral.

Barry Broskowitz posted:

I only run in conventional mode.  So, am I to understand that I shouldn't have a worry in the world with either a PS1 9v battery or a PS2 2.4v battery?

No, that isn't the case.

If the engine's battery isn't sufficiently charged when running conventionally, the a PS1 or PS2 engine will not be able to get out of neutral.

OK - Thank you.