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I want to make several vista dome bases for furniture and people for use in LIONEL 15" aluminum cars.  The actual unit was offered by LIONEL as a replacement part but is no longer available.  Fortunately, I have one to use as a template of sorts.  In the photo you'll notice it has projections to which a table top would be attached.  Likewise, it has small stubs molded in the "floor" for the seats.  I need neither.  the posts for the tables or the nubs for the seats.

motor and dome base 006motor and dome base 007motor and dome base 011

There is a hole at each end of the base to accommodate a plastic "hanger" that suspends the base from the "ceiling" of the Lionel aluminum extrusion.

motor and dome base 019

I"ve worked a bit with sheet styrene but nothing of this thickness.  I had expected to make each "tray" if you will by creating a base to which ends were attached, and two side "lips" were attached as well.

However, after holding the 2 mm material in my hands, I don't think the lips are required for structural support.  So, it may be that all I need to make is the base and the end pieces.\

At this point, I would like advice on how to cut this material to create the base; drill the holes at each end (the diameter of which I can measure); and the end pieces with their arch and notch.

More broadly, any advice on how to approach and accomplish this project are always welcome. for looking and for your excellent advice.

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  • motor and dome base 007
  • motor and dome base 011
  • motor and dome base 019
Last edited by Pingman
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Matt, thanks for the reply.  I no longer have a jig saw and have never had a table saw.

I'm reduced to Dremel and a ton of cutting tools for it, plus the Zona razor saw.

The more I consider this project, I think I need to cut out a simple rectangle; drill the holes for the hangers, and attach some thin, opaque styrene for the ends (since they provide no structural support--the base and hangers carry the load.)

Thanks, again, Matt.

Lad Nagurney posted:

I've cut plenty pf 2mm (.080") styrene by putting a metal ruler at the location of my cut and scoring the styrene once or twice using a utility (or Exacto) knife with a new blade. It usually will then break cleanly.

I firmly agree with Lad on this one.  "Scoring and snapping" will usually give you a nice even and straight cut.  The styrene can be bonded using a solvent cement.  It's a great medium to work in.  I've constructed rolling stock, locomotives and structures in styrene for years.  My train club used .080" styrene for backdrop supports on our display layout cut from 4'x8' styrene sheets purchased at a local plastic supply house for around $35.

Keep us informed!

Last edited by poniaj

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