Need help using woodland scenics risers to rise to 5 or 6 inches

Woodland scenics does not make risers and the elevated system for 0 scale.  My track and ballast is 3 1/8" wide.  With the 2 1/2" wide HO system they offer, how do you all make up for the more than 1/2" difference in the width needed for 0 scale track. Splitting the risers in half and leaving a empty space in between just don't seem like a good way to proceed, but that is the only way I can see the system working.  I am curious to know the best way to use their system for 0 scale, and how you fellows worked it out.

To use them with O gauge, you put two sets side by side (butted together). 

Thanks Mike.  I was afraid of that because the risers are now twice as expensive as HO.  I would think there is enough demand from the 0 scale market for WS to expand more into 0 scale track building materials.  I am intrigued by WS 5 step track plan but; it may be cost prohibitive for me.

If you use, or think you might want in the future to use KD couplers, be aware that they can be very sensitive to grade changes. Especially on scale length passenger cars or long freight cars like scale auto racks.  Of course, once all wheels are on the grade, 1% or 10% hardly matters. It's the transition area that is a problem with scale couplers.

This was a problem for me and limited me to 1% risers.

Thank you very much for that tidbit of information.  I had no idea that changing grades could cause issues with KD couplers. 

That is the kind of stuff that makes this such a great forum.

I had a 4% grade in 2 rail with an 44ac a with Kadee's on all my rolling stock and had no problems.

So it sounds like 4% grade or less should work fine. 

I used these extensively on my layout.  I did not need two did by side for one o scale set of track I used one per track. In some areas I have a double track mainline, and did use 2 in that case. 

These work very well for grades on a curve. 

Korber Models posted:

I used these extensively on my layout.  I did not need two did by side for one o scale set of track I used one per track. In some areas I have a double track mainline, and did use 2 in that case. 

These work very well for grades on a curve. 

Rich, do these have a built-in transition or did you add a transition or don't they need one for a 4% incline?

The came with all the parts needed.  It starts very thin at one end and grows from there based on the grade selected.

they also have separate package of extra grade starters for other projects where you might need a very thin piece to start an incline.

Thanks, Rich.

I'm about to install Scenic Express inclines/declines on my layout - I am going to "double up" and place 2 sets side by side so that the width of the incline will be extended to 5 inches.  I am using Atlas track with cork roadbed and have 2 questions:  

1. I would like to know if anyone knows how to fasten down the track to the incline????

2. Woodland Scenics and Scenic Express both have inclines - does anyone know the exact height of the Scenic Express 3% incline at its highest point?  (Some say it's 4 inches others say it is 4 1/2 inches)

Thanx

Paul 

On the layout that I am doing, I only have a total of nine feet to work with and am using the MTH Arch Bridge. Is there anyway to use the 4% incline system and add to it, or should I just use the MTH incline set which I know would work?

  If you have a table saw, you can cut your own risers out of a 4’ x 8’ x 3” white foam board for a fraction of the cost.

   I cut my own for my layout and I have no regrets. Purchase a large stick hot glue gun and away you go

Al

Hey Al,

Do you have a picture of how you did it?

Did you make continuous ramps like WS or separate trestles like Lionel?

Also where did you get 4x8x3 white foam?

I have been unable to find sheet foam that is not pink or blue

BWRR

  Yes I can get you more specifics on how I did it, possibly later today. I will prepare a plan showing the method.

   The white foam board should be available at Home Depot where the pink and blue board insulation is located.

  In the meantime, I am not sure if you have checked out my layout thread titled “Kicking Yahk Pass”, which shows the layout build over the past 5 years. There are lots of photos and vids of the different things I had been doing

Al

 Hello BWRR and Others

  Here is drawing I have done using my paint program on my computer

I hope it answers some questions

  If this is not readable, I can send to you via email

Al

*** use 2” thick foam board and not 3” as most table saw blades will not be able to fully cut thru 3”****

Hey Al,

At my HD the white foam has foil on it, is that what you used?  If so did you take the foil off?

How did you set up for the taper, a tapering jig of some sort or something different?

 BWWR

  The foam board usually has a grey foil or green backing on it, which can be peeled off.

   It is a nuisance but you can leave it on.

 As for the taper(grade line), I cut the line freehand following the previously marked line. Saw blade at maximum height to make the cut. 
This isn’t the safest procedure on a table saw and hence my caution to novice users of this equipment.

  I believe a Bandsaw would be best for this procedure but I do not own one at this time.

I hope this has been helpfull

 Be Safe!

Al

Thank you

Fred:

Don't know if any one mentioned this. You can use the normal riser packs to get to 4 inch height. Once there use the 4 inch risers and start a new incline on top of the risers using an incline starter set. You could end up with 4 inch over 4 inch for 8 inch total.

Joe