New layout by a noob

Nice layout. They look like MTH Real Trax switches, are they?  If so when you remove that little cover on the switch where you hook up the wires, you will see a brass/ golden colored jumper between two of the end screws. This jumpers the power from the track to the switch.  If you remove the jumper the switches will then have no power to switch.  Run a separate wire to the screw to power the switch ( where you took out the jumper) it is not the end screw, the other one.

The MTH site has info also on wiring them. Normally they will operate fine in the 10-12 volt range. If you use a separate transformer for this make sure it is in phase with track transformer.

Yes you can use another transformer for accessories.

Best of luck and enjoy.

AWESOME!!!!  Thank you!!!!  I have been at it all day.  Need a break.  But its coming around great!!!

 

Just frustrated, I have a Weaver RS-3 Diesel that keeps running off the tracks at the switches.  I have the LIRR anniversary passenger train that seems to handle it better.  I need to build a little control panel for the switches and transformer.  I am not thrilled with it.  doesn't seem to be giving enough juice to the engine.  But I am new and still figuring it all out.  MY kids love it!!!

If it's an older WEaver, it requires an 042 curve.

if you don't have the manuals that came with the switches here's a link to the MTH instructions.

http://www.mthtrains.com/sites...ction/40as17023i.pdf

Hope this helps out.

 

Jerry

I bought it in 2010. 

 

Thanks for all your responses!

Thank you!!!!

You've done a nice job with the layout. Separate constant power to the turnouts is the best way to go. If you feed them 14VAC they should function well.

You are doing well.

 

You may wish to add feeder wires to each area of the Layout to keep the trains from slowing down while far away from the power pack.

Doesn't the Z1000 have a 14v accessory port? Power the switches from that port using the instructions from the switch User Guide and accessories , if they are in the plan.

 

Nice layout! Reversing loop and sidings add fun.

Keep "Noobin" things are looking good.

Welcome to the forums;

Moonman is correct, the Z-1000 has a 14VAC accessory power port on the brick.

I use that to power all my RealTrax switches and they operate fine at any track voltage.

Just remove the jumper and run power to the second screw from the end as shown in the instructions.

Thanks everybody for your kind words!  Its coming together!  This is very addicting!  Thank you for all the help!

Great layout! Looks like another reverse loop on the camera end would give you continuous operation without having to back up to turn around.

Magoo, looks like you're on the right track for a life time of fun. 

A RealTrax switch that humms or Buzzes when you try to throw it is usually fighting the anti-derail function.

Cause; The outside rails are both making contact with the rail ends on the switch. The rails that form a small V are not supposed to touch the track they connect to.

If they do the switch sees it as a train coming on that track and switches to that track. If you try to switch to the other track the anti-derail fights the change.

 

A lack of level between the switch and the approaching track can cause this as can a slipping rail on the switch. I place a bit of electrical tape on the end of the switch rail to avoid this issue.

Thanks Russell!  I have a feeling thats what the issue is.  When I changed the layout a bit this happened.  I guess I have to play around with it and use your suggestion.  I am just a little confused where exactly to place the tape?  I am also confused as to exactly what kind f toggle switches I need for the lock out and exactly how to wire them.  I went on your link.  That is one impressive layout!

jj;

Pull the switch loose from the tracks on the diverging end.

Then look at the connectors under the rails. One of each set does not have a contact.

Put the tape on the end of those rails. There are 2 of them.

You can also blob a bit of hot glue or RTV on the rail ends, anything to prevent the rails from touching.

 

Not sure what you want the toggle switches for.

I use them to power sidings off and reduce run time on engines and lighted cars bulbs.

I use lighted toggles from Radio Shack. There are less expensive places but I wanted to match those on hand.

Simply put a piece of tape over the contact and end of the center rail on a piece of track near the switch. Then Run a new wire from the Z controller Red output to the switch. Then run a wire from the switch to the siding center rail.

After that the switch will control power to the siding.

 

Now, this can cause issues when you go to DCS, so drop me a line if you do.

That's great Russell! I was looking to toggle the sidings for the same reason you mentioned. I will get going on this very soon! Thanks for all your assistance.

Well ok! The only thing left to do is figure out to use the toggle switches for the siding. Still trying to figure out how I am going to do this. But I have the aux power in the switches, which has been operating flawlessly! The only issue I am having is my weaver RS-3 locomotive is derailing at the same spot Everytime. I think the issue is the contact under the locomotive that connects to the third rail. It seems very stiff and doesn't flex when going through the switches. I was wondering if anybody has had any similar issues and if you did how did you fix it??? Other then that this has been a wonderful expierience.