New to the hobby and looking for layout advice.

Enjoy the hobby, its a lot of fun. 

I'm a big fan of reversing loops. I agree with @rattler21 with respect to getting track laid and then seeing where you're at. Nice work!!

Radcam, looks like a good plan.   It would be interesting to see where the doors/access are, and how you will handle that.  Oh, I see the stairs now.

The reverse loops have "S" curves.   I can't tell what the diameter (O-72?) of those are from you diagram, but you might want to stretch those out to as wide a diameter as will fit, for better train running and viewing.   Nothing like watching trains ease through wide diameter curves.   The reverse curve "balloons" look to be about as wide as you can fit, I am commenting on the "S" curves further on the way back to the turnout.

Should be fun!
Ken

I am with, Ken. I think you can do something with the return paths with some large diameter curves.

I don't see the need for the 36" width. It's on the edge of reach, unless you are tall. It does provide a little more scenic space.

What is the curve diameter of the mains?

It might be helpful if you post your SCARM file so those using SCARM can experiment without having to guess at track sizes, etc.

From what I can tell, all your "S" curves have straight sections in them, but I don't know if that's good enough to alleviate problems, especially with longer trains. Either way,  if those loops are 4" deep or more I see access issues for the lower left corner.

I've read here that while the curved switches and double-crossover look nice, they can both be problematic. I have no experience with them though, so I don't know how true that is. Retail price for the double is $400 whereas four 11° switches comes to $300 and gives you a little more flexibility in design. I agree with Tom that durability and operation should override price concerns when purchasing switches.

Since the stairs comes up where the large rectangle is, I assume there is no door to contend with and probably no windows either. And when it comes to 36" wide decking, I believe you're looking for ideas for sidings and landscaping to fill the space. With 36", I wouldn't run the track close to the wall because any reach over 30" can be a problem depending on how the benchwork is, how tall you are, etc.

Thanks for the welcome and the insight.

I meant to add the track diameters into my original post. The minimum is O72, the outside oval is O104, the inside oval is O96. In SCARM I used Ross track and switches with the exception of the S turns where I used Atlas Flextrack mainly because it was easy. I did try to keep all radii greater than 36" and think they are closer to 38" when using the Flextrack.

There is a window on each of the short sides of the room that I do need to access. There is no door, but the distance from the wall to a very long fall is 13" where the stairs come through the floor.  Access to the room is a spiral stair that lands facing the long wall on the opposite side of the room.  I can reach the 36", but 30" bench work would be considerably more economical. Iirc there is 2.5-3" from the wall to the track on the long section and 4-5" on the short sides as it's drawn up now.

I'll make some modifications to my track plan based on your inputs and this time I'll attach the SCARM file when I post.

Thanks again

Cameron,

Welcome to the hobby. Like you, I'm new to it as well. One thing that would you allow you some switching, and wouldn't involve much space or switches would be an Inglenook Siding Shunting puzzle. I came across them yesterday, and I started incorporating it into my own designs. It'd only involve two switches, and would certainly be a lot more hands on than the loops.

SCARM also has GarGraves flex track. I don't know if you plan to use Ross track with the Ross switches for the actual build, but GG flex is much easier to work with than Atlas flex and GG/Ross have a close relationship.

DOUBLEDAZ,

honestly I don't know who's track I'm going to use at this point. GarGraves is one of the manufacturers I have looked at, as well as Ross, and Atlas. I didn't realize that GarGraves had a flex track option available in SCARM. I'm pretty sure as switches go I'll be using Ross.

Deuce,

thanks for bringing the Inglenook Siding Shunting Puzzle to my attention. It is a great idea that I'm definitely going to try and incorporate into my layout. It's right up my alley simple, inexpensive, doesn't take up a lot of space and will make me put my brain in gear.

Again thanks to everyone for all the input it is much appreciated.  

Radcam,

You cannot really bend Atlas flex very much - try to use large diameter sectionals cut to fit or Gargraves flex.

This is all great info. I'll use the GG flex in my SCARM plans. I'm hopeful that I wont actually need very much flextrack, but if I do I'll use the GarGraves. I've been using the flextrack in SCARM because I don't know how, or even if you can make custom cut pieces. In the real world I have no doubt that I can successfully cut track sections to a desired length.

Thanks

RadCam posted:

I've been using the flextrack in SCARM because I don't know how, or even if you can make custom cut pieces. In the real world I have no doubt that I can successfully cut track sections to a desired length.

http://www.scarm.info/index.ph...p;slk=1&topic=43

You're off to a great start with your track plan.  You mentioned working a switching yard while running one or two trains on the main lines.  I presume the switch yards will be located within the reverse loops, as I don't see a track plan for them.  

Take lots of picture even if you don't post them all.

BTW: most people buy trains before track. It's not really exciting to post a picture of your new piece of track

You guys are great. 

Tom, I am using four switches instead of a double crossover in my updated plan. DOUBLEDAZ pointed out that not only was it more versatile but cheaper too.

DOUBLEDAZ, lol now I know. I guess it's back to the drawing board.

Dan, right now I'm trying to get the basic track designed and built before I do the switching yard/s. Mainly for financial reasons at this time. 

Thanks 

I don't see the one s curve being a big deal with the wide radius curves you are using and the straight in between.  I guess a length of flex track there could be shaped to lessen it.  You could put a regular switch where the straights are at the far right of the curve, at the end of the curve so to speak.  This would eliminate the s curve.  A curve may lead into that switch, but the switch is an extension of the curve, which is ok.  I'm not a big fan of flex track.  If you are going to do it, get a couple extra because you may goof up the first couple. Yes, you can cut any track to fit.  I always get long straights, 30" I think, and cut them to fit.  And you have a lot of long straights.  Self explanatory.  Going with two crossovers is a valid point.  I had a double crossover and next time would go with two singles at opposite ends of the long runs because it allows you to park a train in between the two crossovers, while a second maneuvers into the same loop.  With the double when the second train enters the same loop it can't get past it.  Simply it allows more flexibility, it is hard to explain easily.  But, that is what I would do.  That said, there is certainly nothing wrong with using a Ross double crossover and curved switches as far as quality and dependability.  I used them and they worked flawlessly.  I'll just say I used Ross track also and it is real nice stuff.  You can keep the Gargraves flex track though.  Cheers.  Have fun.

I will add this, you certainly don't need scarm to build this layout.  You lay out your outside track to it's max,  then the width of the crossover will decide how the inside loop will lay.  I suppose it doesn't hurt to get a good piece count on the curve pieces, but you pretty much have that already.  With that and a piece count on the switches and long straights you are ready to go.  I always cut my straight pieces to fit.  Get a couple extra of each.  But of course, there are many ways to skin a cat.  Mine just happens to be the best way.  Just kidding.  I hope you build it.

William, I'm really glad you chimed in. I was just getting ready to post my updated track plan when I read your post. I had to go back and revise what I had done. I'm still not sure if the placement of the cross overs is optimal, but it sure is better than before I read your post. I also agree that you don't need SCARM to build a layout. A lot of this process for me has involved a tape measure, some string, masking tape, and a pencil.  SCARM has allowed me to explore, and visualize many different options that I might not have discovered without it.

This one I did with GarGraves track and Ross switches. Thanks to DOUBLEDAZ for showing me the way to snipping track in SCARM. A monster has been created. 

Let me know what you think of rev.A

Thanks 

I hope I did this wright. I tried to attach the SCARM file, but I'm not sure if I did or not.

RADCAM,

Use the add attachment on the forum post and then point to where you save the layout.scarm file.

I think that you lost something by flattening the return of the reverse loops. I can see the top could provide an area to become a yard. So, stretch the bottom one again.

Make that side 24" along the wall to keep the peninsula from eating up the center space as much. A O120 "snake" back to the main will show the train. It could be sliding through trees or around a pond.

Play around with the placement of the crossovers.  The placement of the one on the right isn't optimal because you are creating a dreaded s curve.  I would put that one on the opposite side, probably to the right of the return loop switch.  Then you can run right into the loop.  You can have more trains on the layout this way.  Play with it in your head the different scenarios that would give you the best operational capabilities.  Good luck