As stated in a couple of other posts, I have been looking for PS-2 or PS-3 GG1 locomotives.
I have found a couple of MTH PS-2 Pennsylvania Tuscan Red GG1's that are New In Box, but are quite old by the calendar.
Question: Are the risks to buying older PS-2 locos that have never been run, and are still New In the Box condition?
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@RWL posted:Question: Are the risks to buying older PS-2 locos that have never been run, and are still New In the Box condition?
Sure, there is no warranty, and if they're 5V PS/2 boards, they could be DOA before they're ever powered on. 
Obviously, if they're priced right, it is likely to be a good deal anyway. However, I don't pay new prices for "old" new stuff. 
The two that I have found are $275 and $280.
I have found several K-Line conventionals for $150 ish.
@RWL posted:The two that I have found are $275 and $280.
Prices mean nothing unless accompanied by exact make & model specs.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Prices mean nothing unless accompanied by exact make & model specs.
MTH 20-80002E-e PENNSYLVANIA 2340 ~ GG-1 ELECTRIC ENGINE W/PROTO SOUND 2
MTH 20-80002E-e Pennsylvania Railroad 2340 GG-1 Electric Locomotive PS-2
Is this the info that you are referring to, or is there more detail to look for.
That locomotive is from 2002. It has 5 volt PS 2. As GRJ said earlier it might work or it could be DOA. Even if it works, it will fail and cannot be repaired. Add at least $250 to replace PS2, to whatever your pay for it.
Bingo, that was the reason for the exact model question. I want to pay substantially less for a 5V PS/2 model then a 3V model as I figure it's at least even odds that I'll be spending money on the replacement board sooner rather than later.
I would think the risk is leaking batteries.
@Danr posted:That locomotive is from 2002. It has 5 volt PS 2. As GRJ said earlier it might work or it could be DOA. Even if it works, it will fail and cannot be repaired. Add at least $250 to replace PS2, to whatever your pay for it.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Bingo, that was the reason for the exact model question. I want to pay substantially less for a 5V PS/2 model then a 3V model as I figure it's at least even odds that I'll be spending money on the replacement board sooner rather than later.
What is the cutoff for determining 5v vs. 3v PS2? Is there a simple rule of thumb that one can use when looking at an engine at a meet?
@Mallard4468 posted:What is the cutoff for determining 5v vs. 3v PS2? Is there a simple rule of thumb that one can use when looking at an engine at a meet?
When at a swap meet, the rule of thumb would be to look at the charge port. PS2 5 volt uses a female Jack plug, while PS2 3V uses a two pin connector. ……MTH did not have an exact cutoff date where everything is clear as a bell, you need to know what you’re looking at…..another crystal clear adaptation is the advent of the wireless drawbar, if it’s PS2, and has wireless draw bar, it a definite PS2 3V…….nothing on the box or the locomotive itself denotes 5V or 3V,…..you have to look for the clues…..I can post up pics after coffee if that’ll help you guys….
Pat
I got this from MTH several years back on when the change took place from 5V to 3V boards.
Thank you for contacting MTH Electric Trains. We appreciate your interest in our products. I am afraid I cannot give you an exact date or catalog where we switched from the 5-volt ProtoSound 2.0 to the 3-volt system. For the Premier engines (steam and diesel) in was primarily in the 2004 volume 1 catalog; the majority of the engines offered in that catalog or after have the 3-volt system. For the RailKing engines the switch over was about one catalog later - the 2004 volume 2 catalog. If you have engines that were released around this time we can check on a specific models.
Ditto above. The 3V was designed for the #1 scale, but became the main stay. There are odd ball items though that maybe were delayed or such so that 2004 rule is not perfect. But certainly close. Same with PS-1 to PS-2 which is a 2000 transition. But odd ball item cross the line. Even in once case a box I though said Protosound, but it was PS-2 5V.
Also for the op, if RK they have less features and less value, but the replacement board is the same cost. So that has to factor in too. G
@bob2 posted:I would think the risk is leaking batteries.
Actually, while I've seen a couple of the NiCad batteries leak in the old stuff, I never had one that did more damage than staining the battery holder and killing the contacts on the battery clip. NiCad or NiMh batteries don't leak nearly as often or as much as alkaline cells.
It seems from all this reading that Proto-2 and PS2 were different.
Are these the names for the 5v and 3v units, or were there other differences?
Funny thing for me is that my three surviving ps2 5 volt engines are going strong and seem indestructible. The others (three of my six total) died after about 10 years and we’re upgraded to either ps2, 3 volt boards or ps2-3 boards. It really does seem to be a 50/50 proposition.
Yep, I have some 5V models that have run for years, and they're at least close to 20 years old. I also have put some on the tracks and they were DOA for no reason. It's like shooting dice.
Protosound is PS-1. Proto Sound 2 or PS2 can be either PS2 5V or PS-2 3V. So best to call it by latter. Battery, speaker, connector type and actual sound file format are different, besides the obvious form of the boards. But otherwise electrically and how they operate with DCS is the same. PS-3 is a different beast, but operate with DCS the same. G
Q 1) Regarding the PS2/3 boards: Are they still available anywhere, and especially with the 5v style connectors?
Also: I read that to go from the 5V board to the 2/3 board, the 16ohm speaker needs to be replaced with a 4ohm speaker.
Q-2) Is this correct, and can the 4ohm speaker be found anywhere?
Q 3) Are there any other changes that need to be made when upgrading the 5V to 2/3 board?
Q 4) What exactly is the PS2 & 3 Slave board?
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