Painting diecast repro parts

Use a self etching primer. also, you should heat the paint in a light box or oven to a low temp to accelerate drying and to get the paint to...flow... to smooth out.

I am not a painting pro...but that works for me.

Millcity gave me the idea of painting everything flat black first then finishing it off with gloss for faster drying and flat has a more forgiving finish. That is also in my plan

I probably would not mix Rust-O-Leum and Krylon. I would certainly test that recipe on something else first.

It's my guess that your paint and primer were not compatible. It's been a while since I've painted trains. I always used primer and paint from the same source.
My favorite was Train Enamel by Charles Woods. He does sell a primer to go with his paints.

They guy I bough my paint from did not have a primer and paint should not take 2 days to dry

I rarely if ever use primer. Only if the surface is pitted. For satin black I use PJ1 special satin in a spray can. I have also used Floquil w/o primer. This on both Post War restos and modern repaints. PJ1 is found at many Motorcycle shops and used on motors and frames. For a non epoxy paint its very chip resistant.

Pete

Was the 1835E satin or gloss when it was new? Since I am repainting the whole loco color matching to other paint isn't really an issue

Can you determine if the primer is flaking from the parts, or is after the paint is applied is the issue.

I use white vinegar to etch the parts over night, then dry, prime and bake for 10 minutes at 200 deg. Inspect the parts 8 hours after for proper primer adhesion and no die cast out-gassing.  If there are imperfections I sand using 600 grit wet sanding paper and re-prime and bake.

If everything is good here, than I apply a color coat paint that is specified for the applied primer, low bake for another 10 minutes.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I know your right on the sticking with the same brands of paint and primer and I went the other way despite my better judgement mostly because I couldn't find krypton primer. I was getting paint coming off primer and primer coming off parts so my prep was wrong and possibly bad paint or incompatible 

They guy I bough my paint from did not have a primer and paint should not take 2 days to dry

I think its a reaction between the primer and the paint that causes it to be tacky for days.
When I was painting, I did run into issues using incompatible products a couple of times.
As I recall, one time the paint immediately blistered and started sloughing off. Another time it stayed tacky for days.

My prep for metal items consisted of a careful washing with liquid dish soap and a stiff toothbrush. Then a careful rinse, followed by a quick bath in household vinegar, lastly a final rinse with distilled water.
No touching with bare skin once it was washed.

One time I left a boiler in vinegar way too long, it started to dissolve.

I use white vinegar to etch the parts over night, then dry, prime and bake for 10 minutes at 200 deg. Inspect the parts 8 hours after for proper primer adhesion and no die cast out-gassing.  If there are imperfections I sand using 600 grit wet sanding paper and re-prime and bake.

I was hesitant to mention using vinegar for prep. I don't see it mentioned too often. I wonder how many other people use it.
I think I first read about it in documentation for painting with solvent based Scalecoat paints, or it might have been solvent based Floquil paints.
 

"One time I left a boiler in vinegar way too long, it started to dissolve. "

Are you sure that was a bottle of vinegar?

Are you sure that was a bottle of vinegar?

Yes, it was plain, white vinegar. I literally forgot about it for a number of days.

My main reason for going with the Krylon is to avoid any paint chemistry issues. Besides, its basic colors so I cant see it missing by that much even though there are a wide array of blacks and reds.  Its such a PITA to have to start over and I'm not good at painting because, well, I lack the required patience. But I'm going to try it out the right way, hopefully I get great results and will find I love to paint.

Matt, I quit using Krylon because in many cases it would lift itself. Adding another coat or different color of Krylon would craze the first coat if applied a day or two later. Maybe it was an older formula but you might want to try it on a test piece first.

Pete

I have noticed that quite a few people shun the paints that are marketed for toy train restoration work, and go with hardware store stuff.

I always used "#225 Black Satin" for die cast steam engines.
I see they also have "260 Gloss Black".

Painting is an as much art as skill and science, half the work is in the prep. I know you have to do it right form the start and Imy first shot I messed up so now I want to get as much information from you guys as I can. I will use all the same brand, most likely return the Krylon adn get the Rust-Oleum as Krylon primer is proving difficult to find however Rust-Oleum has a boatload of primers available. Im not sure I trust the "self etching" primer as I don't trust primer and paint in one either. These seem like shortcuts and I know there is no substitute for actually doing the work. his little project is a beginner project, Ive never painted die-cast before so I want some input. I do hope I can get good at painting because there are so many projects Id love to do requiring painting.

Matt, I know of three colors for Krylon primer, white, gray, and "Ruddy" brown. Wally world is where I get Krylon. Cheap and plentiful with a wide range of colors and finishes. Sadly, Menards dropped Krylon ten or more years ago.

Il be using the grey, I went to Fleet Farm since its much closer and way better than Wally World

Matt the best color match I found was by accident. This is gonna sound crazy but it's rustoleum dark grey primer for the primary color and seal it with rustoleum matte clear and it turns into the perfect black without being too black. Here's an MTH engine I did this way. The rustoleum dark grey primer is #2089. Hope you try this on something to see for yourself. Using just the primer and clear also leaves more rivet detail unlike paint.

Die cast or tin parts must all be washed first. Blown dry, and then handled w/ gloves for painting.  Our enamel paints take up to 2 days to dry to handle, ( I bake everything using an old electric oven), so drying time is no problem for me . Also use a sprayer, not an air brush. 1 coat is quite ample. An air brush will probably take 3-4 coats.  Also, choice of thinner is big issue on air drying time. Naphtha has a quicker flash point then say using mineral spirits or normal paint thinner.  Recoat time is also effected by choice of thinner.  Harry

If your going to paint a lot like me you need to invest in a commercial dehydrator for baking your paint. Here's mine. I paid a couple hundred for it online.

I want this job to turn out awesome, first its not mine so it has to be and second the better it turns out the more encouraged I am to do it again. Thanks for the tips, I think I think Ill use my kitchen oven for this one.

I use naptha as a final spray down to clean metal as well. Acid etch primer and good enamel. Second the comment about not using small airbrush: poor coverage. Another big key is to apply a light first coat and allow to flash and then start heavier coats but carefully to decrease runs