Sure Rod, I still want the entire transformer switched off with the power switch. I was just suggesting lighting the light only when power was going to the track. However, after consideration, I like Stan's approach better, best to be safe with 120V, and you have better indications of what is happening anyway with a separate secondary pilot light.
I'm thinking of some molex in series thing with an LED in it...maybe a skinny box with four of them...
Why would you want more connectors? Adding the LED inside the PH180 would be easy and to the point. 
Yes...I was just dreaming...
cjack posted:
Could be somewhat close. Here are a couple of pictures of the inside of the switch...non too good, but something to look at.
But $6.95 for S/H from Bgmicro. For cheapskate DIY'ers, seems to me it's worth considering changing just the LED. That is, it appears from Chuck's photos that you can access/replace the internal LED without destroying the switch.
I don't know if this is the right size but there aren't that many variations of rectangular LEDs:
Apparently this internal LED has failed for others too. So if mucking around inside the PH180 case, whether repairing or replacing the switch, add the 1N4003 diode as Chuck suggests. My guess is the lack of a diode contributed to the LED failure in the first place.
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Thanks to the moderator for keeping this old thread around, lots of good info contained here.
I have two 180 watt bricks, one had a "bright enough" LED, the other was dim, hard to see. I found what I thought was the OEM switch on da Bay, but as it turns out, Lionel used a PCB mount switch while my replacements had regular solder lugs, Either way, solder works! Not wanting to drill any holes in the case for an external LED, and satisfied with the internal separation of components within the switch, I wired the switch's LED to the track outputs, and all seems well for now - no 110 VAC on the tracks.
For anyone else trying this, if you wish to avoid breaking any mounting studs that are now brittle with age, I suggest the old "quarter turn unscrew, 1/8 turn screw it back in, another quarter turn unscrew, etc." method, gradually making the "unscrews" a bit greater until all feels free. The plastic in the standoffs seems to crumble a bit during the initial unscrew process, and can actually be found stuck to the screw threads after removal. This in turn, jams the rest of the threads, which now requires an even greater unscrewing torque, until the old "snap" is heard. This method seems to clear the threads a bit better, resulting in less breakage. The plastic used in my brick cases seemed particularly vulnerable to this.
Thanks to all who contributed on this thread, another helpful hand!
George
