Premier GG-1 with PS2 Acting Up

Probably but You may get lucky.... I suspect the speed differences are too far apart for lash-ups and  the engines are fighting each other.

Or the remote is  losing control of one engine.

Will the problem engine run by  itself???   (did it get hot?) Let it cool down and try it.  

Gregg posted:

Probably but You may get lucky.... I suspect the speed differences are too far apart for lash-ups and  the engines are fighting each other.

Or the remote is  losing control of one engine.

Will the problem engine run by  itself???   (did it get hot?) Let it cool down and try it.  

Gregg - thanks for your reply.  Good thought about possible speed differences.  The GG-1s were offered in the same catalog and are of the same design.  They performed well in a lashup for several months until today.  

The problem GG-1 was not hot to the touch, but I did let things cool off and then tried again.  The GG-1 continue to short out the Z-4000 when it is on the track so I can't test it by itself.  Once removed the remaining GG-1 operates normally.  

Time to open her up and check  the pick up wires from the trucks to the circuit  board. The hot and common may be touching something right at the truck where the wires connect.. Check out the Hot and chassis with a continuity meter. You're still  may not have shorted out the board. good luck.

Gregg posted:

Time to open her up and check  the pick up wires from the trucks to the circuit  board. The hot and common may be touching something right at the truck where the wires connect.. Check out the Hot and chassis with a continuity meter. You're still  may not have shorted out the board. good luck.

Thanks Gregg.  Will do.

Tom, how about an MTH number.  Remember the GG-1 in PS2 was done with both 5V boards and 3V.   Gregg gave you good information.  That is where I would start.  I would do one more step to help in checking that out.  On the side of the board (3v&5V) is a 7 pin connector.  That is your power into the board.  Pull that plug to isolate the board from the chassis.  Next, take your continuity meter and hit the rollers and ground.  If you have continuity, you have what I call a chassis issue like Gregg mentioned.  If that is good with no shorting , your issue will be a board issue or anything output connected to the board.  

To take the guess work out of any shorting situation on any engine, if you do this step you will have a great starting point and save time.   I have many of these GG-1 locomotives and they have been trouble free.  As requested earlier, what is your number.  If you have a 5V system and the board is bad, you have a few options.

Hi Marty, the MTH number is 20-5517-1.  

I have had a string of model railroading bad luck.  M1b is back for repair on PS3 upgrade, a failed Altas-O switch caused collision and I believe killed a circuit on one of my two Z-4000 (decided to order a new one).  Now the problem with the GG-1 which was the lead engine that plowed into the back end of a freight train parked on a siding, but I don't believe this is related to the electrical issue.   Once I get a sense of what is likely wrong with the GG-1, I will send it into one of the techs you had recommended earlier.

Thanks,

Tom

Your engine is the 5V version.  You can pull the 7 pin connector out of the board.  If a short still exist it is the pickup wires.  If short goes away, most likely a board issue.  G

Looks like a 5V board.  Let us know how this goes.  My email is in my profile.

Source of problem found!  While following G's suggestion, the short was gone both with the connector pin removed and when I reinstalled it.  As the loco started up normally and began to run forward, I noticed arching occurring under the front truck as it went around a curve.  The problem is that one of the two wires that connects to the front protocoupler came undone and was dangling such that when it came in contact with the front truck (ground) it would short.  The wire probably separated from the protocoupler during a recent collision when an Altas-O switch failed.

Thanks again guys for your help.

Tom

Nice job Tom and thanks for the comeback...We'\re not left hanging.

Tom, that coupler wire breaking off is a common issue.   The two wires that go to the coupler hae shrink wrap over them and it is extended closer to the coupler than need be causing the coupler to break a wire when pulling a train in a curve.  I have 16 of these G motors and after fixing a few I started cutting the shrink back about 2 inches and the problem went away.

Marty Fitzhenry posted:

Tom, that coupler wire breaking off is a common issue.   The two wires that go to the coupler hae shrink wrap over them and it is extended closer to the coupler than need be causing the coupler to break a wire when pulling a train in a curve.  I have 16 of these G motors and after fixing a few I started cutting the shrink back about 2 inches and the problem went away.

Excellent idea Marty.  Thanks for your reply.  Tom