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Steam locomotive wheels have to have the crank pins on the two wheels at 90 degrees to each other rotated in the proper direction.  If this does not happen the side rods will not go on.  The Lionel wheel press uses wheel cups to do this properly.  These are the tricky wheels to install.  The diesel and electric wheels just need to be pressed on square to the axle. These are much easier to install.  

Before I had a press, I used to mount wheels by squeezing them in a vise. The results were poor for me. I use a press.

Older Lionel service manual documentation advised repairmen to make their own cups, and use a metal lathe to mount the wheels.

For a while someone was marketing a fixture to go in a vise. I don't recall reading anything about anyone actually using them.

When setting up an arbor press to work on trains, the cost of the press is only the beginning. The original Lionel 15 piece tool set is limited in what it can do. There are many additional tools available today.

Same goes for the cups. The Lionel wheel cup set only does a few different engines. There are many other cups available today. Most only do one type of wheel.

 

I agree with Jim. This is the best way to do it without owning a press, and I did it for years this way before buying a press. I still use it occasionally.
 
If you think you can do this, then you can. This stuff is not like working on a Ferrari. It's actually kind of crude.
 
Setting quarter takes some time but its not hard if you're patient. Once you get the first two wheels on axles (do the geared wheels, put them in the motor, and get their positions correct and put a side rod on each wheel to hold them in position relative to one another). Go to the other side and put the first non geared wheel on 90 degrees from its mate on the opposite side. Then you kinda have to work the fourth wheel in place. I eyeball it and also use a second side rod.
 
You may have to play with it a bit for clearances, making sure they are on enough that they don't slip away from the pinion gear, and not so tight as to bind, but when you're done, the motor should turn freely with the side rods on.
 
And, you may not get it right the first time, but if you try, you will get it. This doesn't have to be exact. There's a pretty big margin for error on Lionel tinplate linkage, otherwise, Lionel would never have gotten one steam engine out the door without considerable effort. Remember, they are toys. Probably, no one ever thought they'd last 100 years...
 
Give it a try and learn a new skill.
 
Originally Posted by O Gauge Jim:

I use a floor standing drill press or you can use a bench mounted drill press.  Just take a large size drill bit and put it in upside down for your press device.  It works great for me and is easier to control than a vise.

 

Jim Lawson

 

I purchased an Arbor Press from Harbor Freight about 20 years ago.  This works very well.

 

When you press tin-plate wheels on, do not apply pressure to the wheel rim-the spokes will bend (guess how I found this out?).

 

Use a couple of sockets from a socket wrench set against the center of both wheels so that the force is applied to the hub and not the rim.

I use my vice with very good success.  Have been a auto and Diesel mechanic for years in my youth.  I am thinking of looking into the harbor freight press to make it a bit easier but my vice jaws can swivel 360 degrees  in any direction so that helps .  Plus it is already paid for .  lol.  I use small sockets from my socket set to press just the inner hub .  Have done the wheels on my # 10 and the cast iron wheels on both of my # 38's  with no problems. 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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