Not going to let Pat have all the fun. Having resurrected some of my MTH N&W Premier collection. I did have the Brass Wil J that was just on display. I had re-motored to 555 Mabuchi and added smoke. Was going to get a TMCC upgrade, but then it sat in the display case for years.
Pat said we should do the gear box swap and I want to do that and see how Pat does it, so I brought it over.
Well Pat is so enthusiastic, he said NO, we need to do a MTH chassis swap! I said not necessary, and he said.....NO I WANT TO do this, and off we went, starting the Pat & George RR Co. (P&G)
I will update this as we go, but my intentions are true PS-3 steam upgrade, with Whistle steam, and a few other tricks/feature I am working on.
The chassis swap was not as difficult as it may seem. I did not want to over modify the William shell, nor prevent the MTH chassis from being used again for MTH shell.
So the MTH chassis which is a 2R-3R version with Draw bar, require Belly pan removed, and the 2 forward pumps. Also detail pumps on rear of chassis. The William shell has those detail items. The MTH chassis is shorter than the Willams, but that is all at the back. The steam chest and drivers line up perfectly. To clear the Wil Piping, we angle cut off the rear of the MTH chassis reducing the width. I made sure Pat preserved the 2 hole used to mount a MTH shell just in case. Counter bored the center hole under steam chest. This is the hole centered on smoke unit and sets the reference for rear mounting. It uses Wil original long 4/40 screw that mounts shell to chassis at the front. MTH does not use this hole on the J, as they use 2 front side screws that grip the belly pan no longer on the chassis. Had to counter bore because Pilot truck swivel pin rides over that center hole.
To mount the rear of shell, I originally thought to use the traditional Wil mount at rear where tether is. But after looking at it I decided to mount into the shell flat under the cab. I made an angle bracket that mounted to the Chassis rear. Drilled and tapped 3mm to mount it. Then precisely transferred hole into the cab with the proper height of bracket to ensure J was level from the measurements we took when we started as a Williams J. That worked perfectly.
Because the MTH has an open rear, I have option to use draw bar wiring or tether wiring hidden. So I will make that call later.
Some pictures: G