Restoring a Lionel 203 Switcher - Advice Needed

Joe, 

 Post some pictures when you have time. The #203 is a nice engine. Good luck with your repairs. 

  Some thoughts...my friend helped me to restore the front headlight housing on one of my prewar steam switchers, a #230. We used Bondo and it came out great. I haven't had to do a full repaint lately, I think last that I did, I used Krylon Black Satin Finish (not sure if that is the exact name, but probably close). Clean both the engine and tender with alcohol and Q-tips first. The decals, couplers and plug wires you should be able to get from any good parts dealer like George Teabolt or Jeff Kane, the Train Tender. 

  Take before and after photos if you can.

Tom

I concur with Joe about posting photos, to see what you are working with, and what repair with missing headlight??  Is the headlight broken off the boiler front, or just missing the lens??  The color from TCA just states Black, Greenberg says "Flat Black, and Olsen Library has "225 Satin Black", so which is correct??  A good Satin Black is the Krylon, Joe mentioned. Do you plan on stripping it and repainting?  The jack & plug leads are 2203B-7 available from Dr. Tinker, not found at Olsen's, Brasseurs, or Jeff Kane.  Didn't look at other suppliers yet, like George Tebolt, etc?.   All mention the number as "rubber stamped", so you have to decide if you want to go that route or look for dry transfer.

I have that engine,is yours Teledyne Control,mine is and it works great,these engines were ahead or their time.

Mikey

Most 203's and mine are satin black, not flat black. so I would go with satin. When you say missing the headlight, I assume you are talking about the lens. The headlight body is part of the body casting. The tender always had a rear headlight. So the bulb is likely burnt out or missing. If you want knuckle couplers instead of the original box couplers you will need to replace both tender trucks. On the locomotive, the front coupler assembly will need to be replaced with a 1656 front coupler assembly. (actual part # is 403-??) Replacement plugs are available so that is no problem. Dry transfer lettering and rubber stamps are both available, but rubber stamping may be more correct, it is very had to get right, from personal experience. Especially the LIONEL LINES on the tender. It is either crooked, smeared, or the ink didn't turn out at the same consistency. Very hard to do, go with dry transfers.

Joe, shoot me an email, listed in my profile. I have a friend who could take care of your 203, both parts and painting. If you are interested I could give you his email, after he gives his permission. 

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.  I am not familiar with how to post pix and, unfortunately, do not have the time right now to figure it out.  I did get the boiler casting separated from the motor.  It fooled me for a while...there is an almost hidden screw atop the boiler that was holding everything together.  Biggest issue seems to be the insulation on some of the wires has disintegrated into charcoal-like dust!

There appears not to have been a front headlight bulb ever mounted, but I think I remember the 203 I had as a youngster having a headlight.  i haven't taken the tender apart yet to see the condition of the backup light.

Luke, I will try to get in touch in the next few days.

Happy New Year,

Joe S

Sounds like a basket case too me.

I like basketcases...

Nothing better than getting a basket case back into shape. 

Tom