Ross Switches: How to keep non-derailing rail tips apart where they meet at the frog?

I bench tested them before placement, but I had to tweak a bunch of them after the fact, and I'm still working with a final couple that are resisting perfection.

The Devil is always in the details.

@CAPPilot posted:

I did a topic on this issue a while back, and for my fix I used a piece of a black heavy duty zip tie.  I cut the other end at an angle to form a point and pushed it into the roadbed, then glued it.

Based on this suggestion, I am now considering a sort of hybrid approach.
I am considering using the piece of black Zip Tie, cut at a sharp angle, then pushed into the wood tie, then anchored in place with the JB-Weld.
Sounds like a pretty iron clad plan.
But of course the proof will be in the actual doing.

@RWL posted:

Based on this suggestion, I am now considering a sort of hybrid approach.
I am considering using the piece of black Zip Tie, cut at a sharp angle, then pushed into the wood tie, then anchored in place with the JB-Weld.
Sounds like a pretty iron clad plan.
But of course the proof will be in the actual doing.

Actually, that is what I did.  Memory is not that great and its been a while since I did it, but that is why you need a stiff piece of plastic.  To push it into the soft tie material.

@CAPPilot posted:

Actually, that is what I did.  Memory is not that great and its been a while since I did it, but that is why you need a stiff piece of plastic.  To push it into the soft tie material.

I went one better.
I drilled approx. a 3/32" hole thru the tie, between the rail flange tips, and right up against the frog.
The pic shows a hole not quite up against the frog, but that was the first hole that I drilled.
I then cut the piece of a black zip-tie, with a sharp point, as shown in the pic below, and forced it down into the hole in the tie, so that it is truly locked in place.
When the JB-Weld goes on, and around this piece, it should hold everything well in place, and never allow any contact.

A lot of fabulous information here.....thank you to all who posted!

Peter

when i was first putting my layout together and had not read about this i was going crazy since my non derailing kept throwing the wrong way.  Now, like above a tiny piece of stryene, no more issues.

It can be more of a project with Atlas switches, since the frog is metal.  Note the addition styrene near the frog to isolate the short trigger rail section.

I am building a new layout using traditional Lionel tinplate track and so I plan to use a number of the Ross Plate tubular rail switches.  I am glad I read this thread because the first ross plate switch I installed and tested had the same issue noted by the OP.  Turns out it was the  same problem, there was a screw touching both anti derail track pieces.  This is a simple fix for the ross plate switches when you find the problem- remove the offending screw.  Top picture shows the screw removed and the bottom one shows the screw in place.

It looks like the upper (in pictures) anti-derail track is not aligned properly with the frog.  I hope it is just the camera angle.

That does look terrible. Just checked it and it is fine, good guess on the camera angle.