Soldering

I use 650F for most general soldering and PCB work using 63/37 rosin core solder.  When I'm soldering something heavy, I bump it up at times to 750F to move things along.

Thanks, I'm off to the workbench for some more practice, do not want to  screw  up this little project.

Brent

The most important thing is the cleaning of the surfaces to be soldered.  Even wire or components that are new may have oxidized or gotten contaminated.  I mechanically scrape them with a blade if necessary.  I stripped some wire to use recently and had to use a blade on the copper strands to get them solderable.  If you can find the 63/37 or 60/40 leaded solder you will be much happier.  The sac305 is much harder to use.  Keep your iron clean as well with a wet sponge.  Make sure your solder or your flux is not acid core.  

Touch the tip of your iron to the surface to be soldered and quickly touch your wire solder to the area between the iron and soldersurface.

My $0.02

PLCProf posted:

Don't be afraid of getting solder on the iron! Melted solder is a great conductor of heat. Trying to solder with a "dry" tip won't work; that is probably the biggest mistake made by beginners, because they read in a book to "apply the solder to the work, not the iron." A little solder between the iron and the work is essential. Don't be afraid of it!

I emphasize that point! 

I don't know how many times I've tried to tell someone that and was shouted down.  I've lost count of the number of solder joints I've made over the years, but I'll bet is north of 50,000 at least!  Soldering is very easy if you have the right tools and materials, then it's just the process of learning the technique. 

I used to take new techs when worked in aerospace and have them unsolder and resolder parts onto scrap circuit boards.  When they were able to do that consistently with quality work, they were allowed to work on real products.

Actually, a good rosin paste flux is also a good conductor of heat, too. I use Radio Shack #64-022, which is still available if you can find a store that is still open. I put a small dab of flux on the joint and try to have a bit of solder melted on the tip of the iron, so that when the tip touches the work, the flux quickly melts and draws the solder into the joint, almost instantly. The wire needs to be clean, and pre-tinning it helps, too. When I buy wire, I try to buy the pre-tinned wire, sometimes also referred to as "marine" or "boat wire". It's a few cents more, but it's worth it. If the wire looks dark, like an old penny (or worse yet, if it's green, like a copper roof) it is not going to take the solder well, if it does at all!

Bill in FtL

I have a tin of Deoxit brand rosin soldering paste.  I only use it on difficult stuff, old wires sometimes really benefit from a good application of flux.  For normal soldering, I find the rosin core of the solder is usually plenty.  When you are soldering wires, tinning them first is a good idea at times, but there are times you don't want the wires pre-tinned.

I avoid using flux at home except on plumbing work.  Unfortunately I am conditioned by the oil well industry and DOD where contaminates are forbidden.  We make several thousand joints a day that get measured and recorded with several cat scan xrays.  Each joint has to be within 92% uniformity of each other.  

Basically. If your surfaces are clean you won't have a problem soldering with the flux in the wire solder.  It's best to clean your work afterwards with alcohol and a soft brush like a shaving brush or ultra soft toothbrush.  Tilt your work at an angle and drain the alcohol.  The alcohol now has the contaminants in it.  They usually become conductive, possibly corrosive in time.   And if the solder balls up on what you are soldering, either the surface or your iron you have problems.  Your soldering work should have a very low slope.  The worst thing you can have is sharp angles like water drops on a waxed car.  

gunrunnerjohn posted:

PLCProf posted:

Don't be afraid of getting solder on the iron! Melted solder is a great conductor of heat. Trying to solder with a "dry" tip won't work; that is probably the biggest mistake made by beginners, because they read in a book to "apply the solder to the work, not the iron." A little solder between the iron and the work is essential. Don't be afraid of it!

I emphasize that point! 

I don't know how many times I've tried to tell someone that and was shouted down.  I've lost count of the number of solder joints I've made over the years, but I'll bet is north of 50,000 at least!  Soldering is very easy if you have the right tools and materials, then it's just the process of learning the technique. 

I used to take new techs when worked in aerospace and have them unsolder and resolder parts onto scrap circuit boards.  When they were able to do that consistently with quality work, they were allowed to work on real products.

Me three.  I've always had a hard time solder stuff, took so long for it to melt and so I'd burn wire casings.  But the last time I soldered, I watched some videos, and they said to put some on the iron tip, so I tried it, and bam, it was so much quicker and easier.  Still not down to the 3 seconds, but better than the minute it was taking before.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a tin of Deoxit brand rosin soldering paste.  I only use it on difficult stuff, old wires sometimes really benefit from a good application of flux. 

I was thinking of getting some of the Deoxit flux but it was a bit expensive (but what from CAIG isn't?) and seemed like it might be a new (and potentially re-badged) product.  How has your experience with it been?  Are you using the R80 or the R39/no-clean?

I got the Hakko 888d a couple of years ago. Very nice soldering station. I think it has helped my soldering abilities as well. Good tools produce better work, IMO.

I started out at 600 deg f and later changed to 650 deg f. per a post by GRJ. Those temps worked for me. I am now going to try PLCPROF's 700 deg f suggestion as well. I like the 63/37 solder with lead the best with being 60/40 next in line. I usually use the small pointed tip or the small chisel tip.

The others above are more experienced than I am, their advice would take preference. Just thought I would add my experiences and thoughts on the 888d.

Thanks Y'all for the information, I think part of my problem to date is the solder  I have been using, needless to say it is/was not as you folks have recommended. Having a time finding 63/37, looked at Lowes and they did not have 63/37 or 60/40  but my local ACE hardware has 60/40 so a purchase will be made.

Brent

gunrunnerjohn posted:

PLCProf posted:

Don't be afraid of getting solder on the iron! Melted solder is a great conductor of heat. Trying to solder with a "dry" tip won't work; that is probably the biggest mistake made by beginners, because they read in a book to "apply the solder to the work, not the iron." A little solder between the iron and the work is essential. Don't be afraid of it!

I emphasize that point!

My father used to call that "tinning the iron."  When he taught me how to solder, he made sure I always "tinned" the iron first.  I still do.

JTrains posted:

Are you using the R80 or the R39/no-clean?

I'm using the R80, I typically clean stuff with Isopropyl Alcohol after soldering.

BReece posted:

Thanks Y'all for the information, I think part of my problem to date is the solder  I have been using, needless to say it is/was not as you folks have recommended. Having a time finding 63/37, looked at Lowes and they did not have 63/37 or 60/40  but my local ACE hardware has 60/40 so a purchase will be made.

Brent

Watch the ACE stuff, it might all be 'lead free'? Unlike the lead versions, the lead free is more difficult to use. I don't like it at all. If you still have a Radio Shack near by, around here they used to have 63/37 and 60/40 with lead. The 63/37 was a little larger diameter that I would normally choose, but it was still ok.

If you don't have a RS, Digi-Key has 63/37 in different sizes and you can get it in a couple of days via USPS. Digi-Key is very reasonable on USPS first class shipping charges.

I gave away several pounds of the lead-free stuff, I didn't like it's usability at all!  I use .020 for PCB work and .032 for general wiring.  All of it is 63/37 rosin core.