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Been reading about the steamers coming back to life or close to it.

I don't imagine there would be a book/pamphlet that details the startup/running steps for the particular loco.  There are the main controls throttle, reversing lever,  but I have seen the backhead of some locos replete with multiple knobs/levers.  Ditto for setting up the mechanical dimensions of moving parts, minimum/maximum steam and airbrake pressures, etc.

I am not trying to be factitious, but just wondered, about knowing proper sequences, cautions, "quirks" etc. as I imagine most of the old time steam shop personnel have long gone to their great rewards (recall reading a story that there was an elderly steam shop gentleman who was familiar with that engine and (luckily) showed the volunteer steam people how to set up the various apparatus on the engine)

Or is every steamer straight forward, i.e. light off the fire, watch the gauge, position the reverser, open the the throttle and away we go .

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rrman posted:

Been reading about the steamers coming back to life or close to it.

...

Or is every steamer straight forward, i.e. light off the fire, watch the gauge, position the reverser, open the the throttle and away we go .

this is mostly based on a live steam locomotive i run, but the major steps are similar.

i'll assume you aren't talking about a locomotive that has been sitting for decades, but rather one that has been repaired to the point that the boiler passes a hydrostatic test.  if not, you have a lot more work to do than can be easily described here.

for a locomotive that has been fired recently, there are a few more steps you might add to your checklist.  checking the water level and filling the boiler to a level that works for firing up would be the first step.  topping off the tender water level would also be a good idea along with loading enough fuel to get you to the next stop.  you will also need to get some sort of shop air hooked up to the blower line so you can create a draft before steam pressure builds enough to get you going.

after lighting the fire, you will have a ton of lubrication to take care of also topping off your cylinder lubricator.

after steam pressure builds past the point of getting off shop air, before you reach working pressure you could test the water feeds ... injectors and/ or water pumps need to be working before you move.  air pumps and steam powered generators can also be tested and activated if needed. 

depending on your braking system, steam, air or vacuum; they need to be tested as functioning.

blow the whistle (twice for forward, three times for reverse).

be safe... have fun!

Last edited by overlandflyer

Overlandflyer,

I was referring to an engine that is being bought back to life, undergoing all testing etc.  Of course what you stated above would probably already known, its the finer points that I was wondering about.

Aside from "simple" yard goat engines, I was referring to ones with alot of valve knobs with piping or linkages on the boiler backhead to various engine places, knowing where to set them initially when the crew is ready to actually open the throttle for the first time first rial.  Since it it assumed any old head engineers for that loco will be deceased, there would not be guidance as to how to properly set things.  But maybe engineers (like Rich M) already running the big stuff would already know "ideal" settings, and have engine underway in no time.

As an analogy there is alot to know to getting a Stanley Steamer car running (watched someone spending a good hour to start it up from cold until ready), compared to starting a Model T (keep your thumb folded in when turning crank and make sure levers are set right), to starting todays computerized car (turn key, put in gear, and drive).

Just armchair musing.

Tom Densel posted:

How does one go about lighting the fire?  I'm sure it is more complicated than newspapers and kindling.

Tom

I used to fire on a coal burner ( former LS&I Consolidation).  I would lay down a bed of coal, put a pile of slabwood on top, pour some oil on that, then put a gob of oily waste on the pile closest to the firedoor.  I would attach an air compressor to the blower pipe and get air flowing through the firebox and then light her off.  As the fire got going I'd sprinkle coal on the pile of slabwood to raise the heat.  When I finally started showing some steam pressure I'd disconnect the aux air line and start running steam through the blower.  Add coal as needed.

 

 

At TVRM, we used scraps of wood along with some diesel fuel and a fusee to light the fire. Some of the valves on the backhead of our hand fired locos were the turret valve to provide steam to the turbo generator and the air pump, and also the blower valve for the firebox draft. Other valves were for priming and activating injectors, there were also tricocks to check the true level of the water sight glass, and also a cylinder cock valve. On a stoker fired or oil fired loco, there were an additional array of control valves for adjusting the atomizer or stoker for proper dispersal of fuel into the firebox. Training by experienced personnel was the method to learn all the critical controls and their functions before qualifying as a fireman. Running a steam locomotive requires constant attention to the fire, water level and boiler pressure by both the fireman and engineer, and keeping those three entities balanced at all times. As steam is used, adjustments must be made to meet the demands of grades and loads. Monitoring the brakeline pressure gauge during brake applications is necessary so that you avoid peddling off air, which can seriously impact braking capacity, since steam locos have no regenerative braking capability.

Last edited by Tinplate Art
Tom Densel posted:

How does one go about lighting the fire?  I'm sure it is more complicated than newspapers and kindling.

Tom

I've used newspaper and kindling (along with a some diesel fuel or oil) to light off 1630 or the Shay at IRM.  Ya gotta start somewhere.

Of course, then there all the other work involved that others have mentioned here.

Rusty

At the Laurel Highlands RR in Western PA, I used to fire a small engine that started off as a H K Porter saddle tanker 0-4-0.  It was radically reconfigured by the time I got to it.  I would start by going to the convenience store next store and pick up 2 or 3 newspapers ( I usually kept one to read!)  The find a few scrap pallets and start busting them up if I hadn't done so earlier in the week.  Arrange that in the box and maybe some waste oil on a rag if any laying around.  Light that off, sip coffee and read newspaper until you got a good wood fire.  Add more wood and start sprinkling in coal. Eat breakfast somewhere along the way.  ( Fill the boiler with water prior to lighting the fire with a garden hose)  No external air available so no blower until you got about 60 psi.  by the time you got that far, the oil cans would have warmed up and you could oil around.  Make the whistle and bell were re-installed.  ( We took them off every week to keep the brass thieves away.)  Get some cold drinks and ice in the cooler for the cab.

Wipe the engine down while warming up the rest off the way.  Whole process took up to 4 hours.  As you got closer to full steam the rest of the crew got there.  Have a meeting or two, perform initial brake test.  If you had enough crew, maybe take the first run off but usually not.  

In the cases off the big loco's that have been in mainstream hands or museums there might be plenty of documentation and drawings for initial repairs.  On smaller stuff you kinda have to figure it out as you go.  The most interesting thing is that some components are really only meant for steam loco's - like blow down valves.  Other components are standard industrial stuff.

Strasburg RR has a "hostling tour"P1000110P1000111P1000112P1000114P1000120P1000124P1000125P1000128P1000132P1000137P1000143P1000155 available. Starts early in the AM and you get to go in the cabs and watch the steps involved in getting the engines ready for their daily runs. Includes the "oiling around", loading coal water and etc. A very enjoyable and interesting tour.

(appologies about the rotation on some of the photos, they were correct on my end)

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one thing i could add about valves... after i blow down (in small scale live steam, water is typically drained from the boiler every time it's used except on times of running back to back days), valves need to  be set to s relaxed position, neither full on or full off.  it is very easy for a valve to freeze up if you don't go through that procedure.  so on firing up, all valves should be checked, but most will be set to full on or full off initially.

for lighting the fire, i use wood kindling soaked in fuel oil.  i run at a track where the majority of the locomotives are oil fired (west coast).  it takes me about 20 minutes to bring my 1:8 scale NKP Berkshire boiler up to operating pressure on a 70° day... maybe 10-15 minutes longer on a cold morning.

NKP 753

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To answer the questions I think you're posing, no, there's really isn't any kind of "operator's manual" for a steam locomotive. While the basic controls are essentially the same (throttle, some type of reverse gear arrangement (whether it's a Johnson Bar, power reverse, wheel), brakes, etc.), each engine will be slightly different. Larger engines might have feedwater heaters; smaller engines might only use injectors.

Larger engines with lots of valves sometimes aren't as confusing as they may seem. For instance, on stoker-fired coal burners, you'd often see a cluster of five valves on the backhead. But those five valves were simply the steam jets to distribute the coal to various areas of the firebox.

Sometimes the various valves would have labels, so again, a lot of times the maze of gauges and valves isn't as confusing as it initially seems.

While there weren't operator's manuals per-se, there were text books available that would explain the theory behind the procedures. For instance, the ICS book on oil-firing would explain different burner designs; the properties of the different grades of oils; the need for firebrick; the benefits of oil over coal, etc.

Most of the information on start-up, firing and running is simply handed down from experienced crew to inexperience crew. It's on-the-job training, so to speak. But some of it is just intuition. Was there an instruction manual that explained to you how to start a charcoal fire in your grill? I imagine you already know the basics--your fire needs oxygen and a heat source. So you open the damper and open the lid, add some lighter fluid and light your coal.

When I started on an oil burner, you sort of were expected to know some things, like knowing to remove the stack cap before you started a fire. But the basic sequence was still taught: How to attach the Chicago fitting to the air line. How to start the air compressor. How to clear condensate out of the blower and atomizer lines. How to, once cleared of water, open the blower to clear out any explosive fuel vapors that may have accumulated in the firebox. Making sure you had oil flow through the burner by dribbling some fuel onto the firepan. Spraying PB Blaster on a piece of cardboard (or using diesel on the cardboard), lighting it and lofting it into the firebox just in front of the burner (we could use the oil tank dip stick to position it better), Then applying atomizer and opening the fuel valve until the fire lit.

After that, as others mentioned, you wait until you get enough pressure on the gauge to switch over from air to steam. So you oil around. BS with the guys. Put sand in the sand domes. BS with the guys. Add fuel to the tank. BS with the guys. Top off the water. BS with the guys. You get it.

Once you had some pressure (between 5 and 10 pounds should do it) , you could switch off the air. You turn off the atomizer, letting a burning puddle of oil pool on the firepan. Turn off the blower. Shut off the compressor and disconnect the air line. Close the valve to the tank heater. Open the main header valve; allowing steam to your manifold. Turn on the blower, turn on atomizer (where more condensate is spit through the burner), and open the fuel valve. The atomized fuel will ignite from the burning puddle of oil. Wait for pressure to build to the point you can operate/test the injectors, oil and start the air brake compressor (slowly! You want those moving parts to warm and become lubricated); eventually close the condensate lines.

With running, it's also a lot of OJT, with an experienced engineer next to you, giving instructions. You understand the basics, but there's still a lot going on, and it's still new to you. You don't have any muscle memory for what you're doing. You blow the whistle two times, put the Johnson bar in forward, open the cylinder cocks, and pull out the throttle a bit. You hear hissing, but there's no movement. You pull more throttle. Still no movement. Oops! You forgot to release the brakes. You do that, and the train starts moving. You close they cylinder cocks. You're picking up speed, and need to slow down. You apply a few pounds of reduction to the train brake. But when you do that, the engine brakes apply as well. You need to bail off on the independent brake to release them. You know to hook up, so you do that.  You need to slow down again, and apply the train brakes. You push the lever a little too far, and go into emergency. They tell you everyone  does it, but you don't feel any better. Now you have to sit and wait while the train line gets pumped up.

Going over a trestle, the training engineer will tell you not to touch the throttle while going over it. When you get to the other side, he'll tell you to pull out the throttle--we're at the start of a long up-grade. Don't forget to blow the whistle at the crossings. Don't start your sequence too soon, or you'll have to do some extra blowing to make it onto the crossing...

Bottom line, with both firing and running, there are books, but no real instruction manuals. Each engine is different; each engine fires and operates with its own little quirks. You learn your position from those who've gone before, and each of those folks may explain how to do things in slightly different ways. You take all their advice and instruction, extract the techniques that work best for you, and after you master your position, you start training the next guys on the ladder.

 

 

Last edited by smd4

I was fortunate to fire (coal) with two experienced former steam engineers, one who had served on the Southern Railway, and the other on the L&N. They both had 43 years of service each prior to 1984, and they were both road foremen at retirement. They knew how not to overwork a fireman, and when it was my two daily turns to run as an engineer trainee, they would offer advice if I needed it. I was a fully qualified steam fireman, and had passed both a practical and written SR rules exam. My engine during those 11 weeks at the TVRM that Summer was EX SR 2-8-0 #722.

Last edited by Tinplate Art

One morning I was not feeling well, and my 70+ year old engineer said to get up on that right-hand seat, and that he would fire for me! After running five trips as engineer, I felt well enough to fire one trip. I was alert enough to run as it was a minor digestive issue. I felt a little guilty, but my senior fireman stated he really enjoyed shoveling coal, and he did an excellent job for me! I will never forget that day!

Last edited by Tinplate Art
Tinplate Art posted:

Running and maintaining any steam engine is hot, heavy and dirty work, but there is nothing that comes close to this activity in terms of pleasure and satisfaction!

Yep, agree!  I did the fireman classroom and demo routine, passed the written test for an Iowa tourist train.  My shift was in late August/early September must been 150* humid degrees in the shade outside.  Inside the cab must have been 300* .  Kept up the steam as we went round and round, up and down  the 1 mile track.   After that shift, I said never again and went back to my role as signal maintainer and on trolley extra board (they were open air breeze cars).

After a dispute with head trolley honcho who said I talked too much on radio, by following the rulebook THEY wrote, I left the operation years ago.  I miss it but not enough to ever go back.

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