Suggested Adhesives For Joining Two Pieces of Fastrack

Use the smallest paper clips.

Probably an ABS/PVC cement like you find in a plumbing store or department.

John

Or another idea.  Just line them up and screw them into your benchwork.

I like Ron's idea.  I have a whole bunch of track on lift bridges that simply hinge down and align perfectly, I run on them all the time.

I’ve used 0.5 inch binder clips, works well, and unlike glue works immediately and can be easily taken apart.  I currently don’t have an option to nail them to the platform, or I would probably go that route.

Unclear what the purpose is here.

If this is to create an insulated gap for a power block or something, it would be just the same to drop a dremel or saw through the center of a piece, leaving the ends intact.

Even without pins though, fastrack has the little nubby and receptacle that locks together, I'm not sure why glue would be needed at all. Just lock in the nubbies and screw it down.

If its really gotta be glued, ABS glue from the plumbing aisle would be what I would go for as it would weld it together.

@Richie C. posted:

..joining the plastic ends of two pieces of Fastrack together (no pins)....

I think this needs to be better explained.  Were the pins cut off and now you have two smooth pieces that need to be joined?    If you are looking for a permanent filler piece for a layout you put up/take down often, the ABS cement is a good option.  Otherwise, use screws.

Ok - let me explain.

In order to add two small sidings in a confined space to the existing layout and maintain the correct geometry and curvature of the existing main line, I had to cut the "through end" of an FT switch back by about 1.5". You'll have to trust me - there was no other way to do it and still be able to fit the two sidings into the confined space.

Because of the configuration of the switch, there's also no easy way to insert new pins into the cut rails. That means that the pins and the plastic nubs of the connecting FT piece also had to be cut flush in order to meet the cut end of the switch - sort of like you would have where the track on a lift-out connects to a main line.

The difference is that I don't need to leave a gap at the ends to lift one track out - hence, the question about the best adhesive to use to connect them together. 

The cut end of the switch has no bulkhead - it's just the thin curvature cross-section of the track - so a binder clip will not work - there's nothing for it to grab onto at the switch end.

Because there's no pins and the connecting track and sidings will be getting power through the switch, I've already soldered wires from the switch to the connecting piece of track, so they are already physically connected to each other by wires, but not solidly.

I intend on drilling new holes into both the switch and the connecting track to anchor them to the layout, but also wanted to try and glue them together as one piece, if possible.

I tried regular JB Weld (the black and white mix), but it did not create a strong enough bond - thus, my question.

I also like the idea of the ABS Cement, make sure the ends are smooth and mate well, stick them together and then screw them down once they're set.

Another point, many people have used standard O-Gauge tubular track pins for Fastrack modifications, that might be an option to help with the alignment.

Thanks, John - I'll try the ABS cement and see how that works - track alignment is good visually and should stay that way once the pieces are screwed down.   

I'd stick the tubular track pins just for extra alignment, can't hurt...

@Richie C. I've been following this topic with interest, as I also would like to glue some pieces of plastic back together (broken screw post inside Fastrack switches that holds the switch stand).  I tried Testors plastic cement (orange tube), but it hasn't held securely.  Will you please post your results with the ABS cement?

Thanks, Steve

@Richie C. posted:

I tried regular JB Weld (the black and white mix), but it did not create a strong enough bond - thus, my question.

For JB Weld, you need to use the right product for the job, in this case JB Weld PlasticWeld. It's simlar to ABS cement, designed specifically for this kind of application.

Semi-related, my current toy train layout started out as a Fastrack version of the famous Lionel 1957 catalog layout, with the troublesome flyover. If you are familiar with that layout, you know that the trestles that support the flyover all land in the wrong places.

I put together the flyover and filled the bottom of the Fastrack pieces with 2-part floor leveling epoxy for about 3 inches either side of the track joints. It is absolutely rigid, and I can put the trestles where I want without regard to the joints. I of course wired electrical jumpers between the sections before applying the epoxy, just in case.

I think you'll fine that the PVC pipe cement will do the job as long as the joints are smooth without gaps.  If there are any gaps, then the JB-Weld for plastic is the ticket.

There are some small gaps between the pieces.  There are a few different options from of JB Weld for Plastics:

Which one(s) would you recommend for FasTrack plastic?

Joining cut Fastrack with pins is my method for making custom lengths.  Just drill out the plastic ribs as shown here and insert track pins.  I haven't needed to resort to glue for a secure track connection.

I ended up using ABS cement (black) purchased at HD in a small 4 oz. bottle.

I cleaned and squared up the two ends of the FT pieces so they mated flush and applied a liberal amount of the cement to both pieces and pressed together. Since they're being glued together longitudinally and one is a switch and the other is a curved piece of track, there's no easy way to hold them together. I hand pressed them together for about 3 minutes and the cement had started to set a little at that point. I put a heavy object at each end to hold them in place and let sit overnight.   

Next day, I liberally coated the underside of the joint with the ABS cement and let that dry overnight.

The ABS cement worked very well and pretty much welded the two pieces together as one. I need to now go back and paint the joint area with some gray paint to make it look good and will post pics when done. 

Not sure if the special JB Weld plastic cement works as well, but the bottom line is I would highly recommend the ABS cement for a project such as this.

Thanks to all who replied.

The ABS cement is a product that actually "melts" the plastic to make the joint, so when it's joined, it's joined!

True enough.

Pic's attached showing where the cut was made on the switch (the paint came out a little darker); the underside where additional ABS cement was liberally applied; and "strength test".

I suppose I could have put an engine on the curved piece to further demonstrate the strength of the bond (like the flex-seal commercials) and it would have held, but I wasn't feeling that lucky today.