Sunset DRGW F7 ABB First look. New photo 11/9

When they were complaining about lifting lugs I was thinking those loops on the roof.  I did not know there were lugs on the pilot.  I have been staring at train photos for just shy of three quarters of a century, and flat-out missed it.

 

I maintain my orneriness - except for Butch, the 3-rail crowd, as evidenced here, is a lot more picky than most 2- railers.  Really strange . . .

That is not even close to being true Bob! Has absolutely nothing to do with the number of rails I run my trains on!

Just because only 6 regular people post in this forum doesn't mean a thing? Would you like to read all the emails I have from people about these Warbonnets... 2 rail and 3 rail modelers? Of course I would not violate their privacy like that, but that is a ridiculous statement... period!

Are you specifically a Santa Fe modeler? Did you buy a set? I didn't think so!

As Scott pointed out the builder used the pics/drawings of the PRR F7s for locating the lifting lugs,correct for PRR but wrong for SF.

That is true, but the builder also had drawings of the Santa Fe F7s showing the correct placement... they just did them all like the PRR.

Well as one person put it over on the Model train forum.

 

 

__________________
- aka CentralFan1976

 

 

Most 2 railers don't post on the OGR forum so any conclusion is dubious at best. Calling it dubious is my way of being polite.

 

Hopefully for Santa Fe modelers those lugs have tabs that can be buzzed off on the inside of the shell so the lugs can be removed easily through smaller holes.

I notice that it looks like a backup light is on the rear of the A unit.  Do any lights like exist on the B units?  I'm only asking about the models, not the prototype.

My SF B units do not have back up lights on them

The fact that my opinion generates anger argues for it!  At least I have some evidence for my assertion - count the complaints on the 3-rail site.  Laidoff may have evidence, but he cannot present it, so it is worthless in court.

 

You guys take me too seriously.  I think it is genuine fun to see folks running on tinplate track seeking scale perfection.

 

Still opinion.

The Sunset Grande F7B Units don't have backup lights. 

 

There are four states in the QSI Titan Magnum for the lights.  Forward, Neutral from Forward.  Reverse.  Neutral From Reverse.  All sorts of things can be independently done in each state.  The most basic example might be changing combos between bright, dim and off.  But strobes, etc.  are in there, too.

 

The F7A backup light came from the factory programmed to be dim in Forward, NFF and NFR and bright in Reverse.

 

All lights are LEDs.  Came from the factory too bright for my taste.  Will individually program them to set intensities I like and to function in the four states the way I like them to.  

 

The fun you can have with out-of-the-box QSI Titan DCC equipped engines which run well, sound great and have lots of lighting features.  All easily programmed.  Many horn, bell, prime mover, etc sound choices all in the firmware.   Repeat Out Of The Box.

 

When I converted from 3RS to 2 rail all my 3 rail buddies accused me of "going over to the dark side."  Not anymore! 

 

Bill

The models reflect the prototype.  If the prototype had them then the model does, if the prototype did not have them the models do not.

Bear in mind these units are painted and detailed as delivered from EM unless Scott choose a particular prototype to model, over the years the RRs made their own mods or changes to the factory product as a result there are numerous photos of these variations.Just Saying!

hibar.  Good point.

 

I had earlier posed a question on this related to the green (fade to grey?) anti-glare treatment in response to an observation by a contributor.  But, I got no response.  So, unless someone steps up and addresses this I will just choose to believe that Scott chose the "as delivered" paint scheme without the green treatment on the nose for the Grande A units.

 

If the truth is otherwise, then I hope other forum members will contribute with the facts.  Hope to see the facts whichever way it turns out.  "Ye shall know the truth and the truth shall set ye free."  It's as easy as keystroking a keyboard to offer an opinion.  It's a little harder to be factual. 

 

Thanks, Bill 

Can you elaborate what "member" you've had several contributing "members" on this subject.

The reality is they applied the paint- delivered or not they did not last long with an orange hood; if you chose to apply is entirely up to you. It is your model after all.

IMHO it is erroneous as it is. I wouldn't waste another day without it.

I can understand your frustration. 

What gets me is the moment a guy offers up what can be considered helpful advice turns into a debate about the shade of a color... You simply can't win. I avoid these types of discussions because everybody is a self proclaimed expert and some really are and some are not.

Ultimately it's your decision it's your model and looks wonderful just the way it is. I like the anti-glare hood it's the most commonly seen configuration. I still can't find a photo without it out of 10 books. Jonathan has several of my books used in the research of this model and maybe it was gospel maybe it wasn't. I don't have an issue with it. I would just add it if I had a set that I do not. With that said I have nothing to add it's not my fight.

Key and other brass models are just as prone to this as anything else. The medium used brass it plastic is irrelevant the research is the same.

I hope you stay on OGR; I've been put through the ringer here on all sides of the fence and still come back because there are a lot of young folks out there that need to see what's out there. Education is important to me and authenticity goes hand in hand with history.

Oh by the way I'm not trying to top anything with a key man. It was used as reference.

How you take is up to you. If it makes me a snob for wanting authentic historically accurate models I guess I'm a snob.



I am sorry we are resorting to name calling. Interesting and sad. I was defending you at the start when somebody was rude about your fabulous photos and now I am the one in the firing line.

Santiago good man! These are just fantastic models and there is so much good to say about them. Why these discussions always lead to a negative is a mystery to me.

No model is perfect. I'm still fuming about some big goofs on my Rocket E6. But it is what it is. 

Scott has a huge job producing all of these and what we need to do is celebrate what he has done. Every modeler for a fortnight has improved his or her factory built models. Decreasing the size of the grabs or weathering. It's what we do we are OCD about authenticity. This is why I am in this hobby; I love the history. I was not alive during this era and I can't say I was there.. But I can showcase them on a stage; my layout or my buddy's layout.

I know Chris I'm preaching again!

Well, I for one appreciate the photos and all of the input.  I did not buy any of these F7's but I have an ABA set of 3rd Rail CP FP7's, and they are very nice.  I do have a set of (originally 3 rail) D&RGW MTH F7's that have the gray hood paint.  I had thought it might be incorrect, but it seems it may be correct after all.  But the MTH set has other errors, of course.  They do look much better with scale pilots, however, and they were quite a bit less expensive too.  I guess that it depends on what you want to get out of your model.

You guys are bending over backwards to be nice. I appreciate it.

 

Mistakes are made, and if you want them corrected, email me.

 

We stood around at the factory today looking at the grills, wondering why they came loose on some models. Why this and that detail was missed. They really care. So, if we can, we will correct it.

 

Scott Mann - China