Tubular track and old train ligths

auto part stores for an 18 volt bulb cars run on 12 dont they

ok thank you i appreciate it very much thank you 

You also may want to start learning the brightnesses in ma, amp, and watts.

Those combined with many 12v-24v bulbs will get you running.

Rule of thumb: A 6v bulb on 12v burns twice as bright for half as long as stated. A 24v bulb burns half as bright for twice as long as stated. Heat can be a factor with an incorrect bulb, especially overvolted, check it.

Scothbright to clean the contact surfaces of the rails.

 Jumper wire can be soldered to the foot of the rails to jump the track joints if its on a layout with old track. Or soldering just sections, and/or adding more power feeds. Sand/wire brush/ grind a clean spot where you are going to solder, & use good electrical solder with flux. Keep it to the outside of the outer rails, or at least be mindful of the wheel flange paths/depths. Tin (pre-solder area and wire) then reheat to stick wire to it. Use stainless steel to hold and push the wire flat. Its tough to stick solder to stainless.

Cleaned rail tops and inside edges, with jumpered track works great. Even when the rest is rusty, it performs well.

Otherwise, squeeze the track onto the pin with pliers, or pull and clean the pins and pin sockets. No easy peasy way around that. Sandpaper, wire bush, and/or acid.

  If you do pay them mind vs solder,, I suggest looking for a seam on each pin. It will indicate a hollow pin, weak enough to crush with pliers. Hollow pins are not nearly as good at conducting as a solid one and they tend to rust from the inside out. Replace them, or at least the center rail pins since the outer rails have twice the ability with two pins. A solid pin in the center will at least raise the ability of the weakest link there, a hollow center rail pin. A weak hollow pin can get glowing red hot on just a couple amps.

thank you very much ill see what i can do its all hollow they all have the seem and i crushed one do you know where they sell solid ones???

ANYONE REMEMBER BUYING A NEW BULB AT A "HOBBY SHOP" ?

Adriatic posted:

You also may want to start learning the brightnesses in ma, amp, and watts.

Those combined with many 12v-24v bulbs will get you running.

Rule of thumb: A 6v bulb on 12v burns twice as bright for half as long as stated. A 24v bulb burns half as bright for twice as long as stated. Heat can be a factor with an incorrect bulb, especially overvolted, check it.

 

Scothbright to clean the contact surfaces of the rails.

 Jumper wire can be soldered to the foot of the rails to jump the track joints if its on a layout with old track. Or soldering just sections, and/or adding more power feeds. Sand/wire brush/ grind a clean spot where you are going to solder, & use good electrical solder with flux. Keep it to the outside of the outer rails, or at least be mindful of the wheel flange paths/depths. Tin (pre-solder area and wire) then reheat to stick wire to it. Use stainless steel to hold and push the wire flat. Its tough to stick solder to stainless.

Cleaned rail tops and inside edges, with jumpered track works great. Even when the rest is rusty, it performs well.

Otherwise, squeeze the track onto the pin with pliers, or pull and clean the pins and pin sockets. No easy peasy way around that. Sandpaper, wire bush, and/or acid.

  If you do pay them mind vs solder,, I suggest looking for a seam on each pin. It will indicate a hollow pin, weak enough to crush with pliers. Hollow pins are not nearly as good at conducting as a solid one and they tend to rust from the inside out. Replace them, or at least the center rail pins since the outer rails have twice the ability with two pins. A solid pin in the center will at least raise the ability of the weakest link there, a hollow center rail pin. A weak hollow pin can get glowing red hot on just a couple amps.

yes the track does get hot near the power section but not to hot just to the point where it can burn you i know this is power being wasted due to resistance but i got the train on Thursday and im new so im not as experienced as you when it comes to post war thanks for the tip and yes i know the law about light i just want to keep it as original as i can thank you much appreciated. 

My advice is to get a bulb that is well known to be OK in your train.
The wrong bulb might get too hot.
I have seen a number of Lionel ALCOs (like your Santa Fe) that have heat damage to the shell above the bulb. Some were even melted right though.

Lionel specified GE #57 bulbs for their ALCOs. Usually I will use a #53 or a #1445 instead because they draw a little less amperage, and should be a bit cooler.

An auto parts store or Radio Shack should have at least one of these. Or you can buy them online.

 (This post duplicates some of what was written above, but I think it's well worth repeating)

would they have them on ebay

Soldering to the rails bottom so you cant really see it is another option. If you work in sections you can flip them over after. Feed wires soldered onto the track work better too. I can't stress enough what an impact this would have on the tracks overall running ability; far more than cleaning pins and sockets, likely faster to solder, and it will last.  New track would be next best.

Who sells solid pins? Pick a name at the top of the page and ask! The solid pin as a replacement is far more common in my experience, but ask to be sure. Have them look for the seam

Might as well have them throw a couple of the correct bulbs in too. Likely cheaper at a hobby shop than the auto parts store anyhow...seriously.

The last three times I was at a hobby shops bulbs came home with me. But I've got a RS, Wall mart, and an auto parts store at the end of my block, or I can take a 30- 50 minute drive to the closest hobby shop, 50min- 2hrs to my favorite, depending on traffic, and though under 50 miles at the most, it could take longer too....oh yea, and I don't drive much anymore, so I dont own a car anymore either

they 100 percent have the seem 

I bought 14.4 volt bulbs at Radio Shack, as 18 volt bulbs were sort of dim.

Also I am staying with tubular track as newer track systems don't work that well for me plus kill my budget.

Lee Fritz

thank for the help everyone i tried some tips and they worked and the bulb is on its way thank you all for helping me i appreciate it.