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Lucas,

 

I like those old Weaver SD40-2s; I have one that sits on the shelf that one day I hope to get around to upgrading to command control and 3RS. They were nice models for the time, and though not as detailed as today's stuff, are still good models and good runners. The Weaver truck design was much better than the lame MTH design with the blind inner flanges (fortunately since abandoned).

 

The major body flaw that comes to mind is that the cab trailing edge is incorrect for dash 2 models. This should have a slight taper overhanging the rear windows rather than being perfectly perpendicular to the hood. Perhaps one could model this by grafting a new roof made from very thin sheet brass. There also are some body variations depending on production phase that probably aren't reflected in the Weaver model.

 

Otherwise, you can choose to replace the cast-in details and maybe add other details.   You could replace the undersized fuel tank with an MTH part. I've also removed the undersized tank spread it apart and used sheet styrene to lower it. Not as good as a new tank, but better than the original. These MTH models, made from the old Weaver tooling, include some detail enhancements. The ATSF includes, antennae, air conditioner, relocated horn, sun shades, and an ATSF-style anti-climber among other details. The UP, which isn't fully finished, has the fuel tank re-done as described above (looks "OK"...), MU cable and an anti-climber. (I need to re-glue the front deck plate, it appears). I repainted the trucks from silver to grey and renumbered this one.

 

In fixing the pilots on both models, I cut off those awful cast-in footboards.

 

RM

 

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What can be done to the body to bring it up to current standards, without major modification?

 

-Lucas

 

The first item is to contact MTH for their SCALe sd40 Fuel tank. IT's a Direct Drop-in replacement. Holes of the sclae fuel tank will match the Weaver mounting holes- Afterall, MTH did purchase the weaver Sd40-2 molds.

 

Second is to add the psc air lines and train line air hoses and an MU cable.

 

Finally- depending on the era you are modeling, consider lighting up the marker lights with Evan's designs LEd's

Lucas,

 

Judging by the Weaver model I have, fixing the pilot should be pretty easy. Weaver made these in both two and three-rail configurations, and the model I have has holes already drilled and tapped in the frame and holes pre-drilled through the pilots. You just have to figure out how to add couplers and whether you want a pilot spacer and any other details you want.

 

My hunch is that the speedometer cable attaches to the forward-most bearing cap on the left side, but check a prototype photo to be sure. Good luck.

 

RM

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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