Where to find G-Scale Coupler

John:

I found one on the 'Bay that you might be able to use.  It would have to be adapted a little bit, and I'm nor sure the length is exactly the same, but it looks close.  Here is the item number:

Thanks Bob, I think I'd like to get something a little closer.  That one is really long!  This one fits inside the tender truck, so it has to be pretty close at the end.

John:  Here is another, but probably too short.  eBay number: 331192636810

Yep, I'm hoping to match the one there.  Since it actually goes in a slot in the truck on the tender, it has to pretty much be the right part I think.  I didn't have any luck searching Lionel, and I don't have a product number for this little engine.

How are you at machining?? you could make one out of aluminium stock

That's a nonstarter for me, and it would probably cost more than the set is worth to have it made.

don't know if this guy has Lionel G gauge parts, But Ive dealt with him for LGB

G gauge parts before. he apparently bought out the old LGB store of parts when they went belly up. He may have something that will work for you.

TrainCraft by Klaus LLC

6585 Remington Dr

Suite 300

Cumming, GA 30040

Klaus@traincraftbyklaus.com

www.traincraftbyklaus.com

why not 3d print it?

Do you want all the reasons, or just the obvious ones?

Picture of the loco and tender? Vintage if known?

Larry

 There's a famous Lionel dealer that has a lot of the G scale parts. I've looked twice, and I can't find my bookmark or remember who it was. I'm still looking.

Good idea Larry, that might help identify it as I don't know what the model is.  The coupler on the right side of the tender picture is the one that was glued, I need a replacement.  Since it's actually inside the tender structure, it pretty much has to be the exact replacement.

That would be a good reference.  Finding the exact model number of this locomotive would help I suspect.

maybe here?

http://www.traindoctor.com/service/gscale/lionel.asp

John:  Is this a battery operated train? The operating manual for the Christmas Story train shows a coupler that looks very much like what you have.  Lionel #71-1177-250

looks like that's the set's manual #???

http://www.lionel.com/media/se...ts/6117711177250.pdf

It is the manual.  There is a picture of a couples that looks very similar to what John is looking for. Page 8

 Sorry, I didn't see more than a general picture of the coupler being used. I didn't look at the whole document. I didn't see any part numbers.

 Might be better to "talk to us" with Lionel direct about parts. They have always been very helpful to me. I have a feeling that this economy set is out of production and may need a part from a different set.

 I don't do much Lionel.

I have quite a few spare Aristo couplers you could play around with. Some shaving here or there might do the trick. I have an old Lionel G knuckle coupler ( not fixed closed) If no luck in finding a replacement, I could send them your way. Send a PM if you have no luck and want to do an end run.

Here is the set, and here is the owner manual. Not many parts seem to be available for it, though.

Larry

Bob, I love a good challenge, love to research, and I love to help people. Always looking to educate myself on our hobby.

Enjoy "our" trains.

Larry

I posted this suggestion re a different part, different thread...

This part lends itself to the making of a mold and pouring a resin copy.

If you go to the Alumilite website, you'll find all sorts of helpful how-to videos and product listings.

Want more personal help?....  Send this part photo to Alumilite and ask Carol to help you through the replication process.  Carol is our (LHS) Alumilite tech/sales advisor cum laude. 

Recently I completed a scratch model of a large Gothic church from a 1938 article.  The multitudinous and various types of Gothic windows were the main challenge.  Using this project to learn about making masters, molds, resin copies, and correcting warpage of the finished product was a 'high point' for me...with help from Carol...last year.  Now I'm a believer....and advocate for certain tasks....like this coupler.

Just an idea.....FWIW, always.

KD

I would try repairing it. I see that it's glued. 

One of my former hobbies was high power model rocketry, and we used fiberglass cloth and epoxy to reinforce the fins for high velocity flights.

If you have room, wrap a piece of epoxy soaked fiberglass cloth around the end. Add more epoxy to assure the cloth is soaked.

 I also have tried casting. It took a big learning curve for me to get it right and it cost me. If you already cast, this would be easy. I would cast more than one to make it worth the trouble.

 Some of the 3D prints I've seen, are very strong for something like this, if you can get access to one. Someone has to draw it.

 The trouble with glue, is it usually doesn't hold up. I have been getting great results with Gorilla super glue.

  Using an epoxy and cloth, would probably be best to hold up.

 To me, all this is overkill for such a cheap set. You can't charge what it's worth for the fix. 

There is no room in the truck for any added thickness, that was my first inclination.  I'm not quite ready to start trying to cast a part.  I did glue it with CA adhesive, but I don't have any faith in it not failing.

Larry, thanks for finding the exact set, I think I'll try Lionel to see if I can get the part from them.

I have never done casting, and I can't see trying to start for one part.  

Bruce, I'll keep you in mind if all else fails.

I don't have a 3D printer, and even if I did, I'd have to have the CAD description for the part, something I also don't have.

You're welcome John, the "sleuth" in me payed off this time.

May I suggest that a couple of holes be drilled through the coupler from one side of the break to the other, and epoxy in a couple of screws to reinforce the joint.

Larry

There's no room on the one side, as the post it sets on fills that void.  I might be able to put a tiny screw on the other side into the "meat", but there isn't much to the piece that broke off.

If you look close at the break area, he has no room for any protrusions. Id replace it if I could.

Im surprised. The casting kit seems like it would a natural step for one of the kings of customizing(that would be you G.R.John) 

You might try 60 second epoxy where you can hold the pieces together easily with a side clamp. Cures in four hours. Have used it with success in plastic. A little goes a long way to avoid gluing the clamp. Good strong bond.

The heads of the screws could be countersunk, or ground off after screwing in place. Put epoxy in the holes before the screws are inserted for extra strength.

Larry

Replacement is clearly my first choice, as I have little faith that bonding it is going to work, just not enough material to work with.

I may be forced to try to adapt an alternate G-scale coupler.

John,

Interesting in that those couplers are "left-handed couplers". In other words, they are upside-down from the normal coupler. If you go to another brand or type, it would probably have to be mounted upside-down from the way it was intended.

Jim

Sharp eye Jim, I didn't notice that before.

John,

I've accidentally installed enough Kadees upside-down in their draft gear box by mistake to make me always look twice at couplers!

Jim