Looks good. I have the same loco and will be following along. The tru-blast sound just doesn't cut it for me.

Bob

I believe the tiny connectors on that board are the JST-ZH 1.5mm pitch connectors, available in many places.

The pitch is 1.0mm, male connector is approx 2.26mm tall & 2.94mm wide. Have any idea? Really small!

I can't whit to see more!

Nice to have another member of the Blunami club.

Here are some pics of the 1mm pitch connector I’m trying to identify.

Measure again, are you sure they're not 1.25mm?  Looks like the Molex PicoBlade 1.25mm connectors.

I have measured again using my magnifier and dial vernier, you are correct it is a 1.25mm pitch. Went to the Mouser site and downloaded the specs for the Molex Picoblade you suggested, the dimensions match. Thanks John!

Next question: Is there a lower cost matching alternative? Cables are $2.90 each!

I buy these on Aliexpress.com, they have them.  Search for 10PCS Mini Micro JST 1.25.  You can have ten pieces for around $3 shipped.

Here's the first few hits.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Measure again, are you sure they're not 1.25mm?  Looks like the Molex PicoBlade 1.25mm connectors.

John, you are so helpful with electronic components ,I love to learn from  your posts.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I buy these on Aliexpress.com, they have them.  Search for 10PCS Mini Micro JST 1.25.  You can have ten pieces for around $3 shipped.

Here's the first few hits.

Bookmarked this info.

Stupid question.....why is the size referred to as "pitch"?

Thanks John

@RSJB18 posted:

Stupid question.....why is the size referred to as "pitch"?

That's the spacing between pins.  It's one of the primary connector spec's.

Well I finally had an opportunity to test my Blunami board prior to installation. I placed it on a board so I could separate all the wires, didn’t want any shorts. Everything worked well, had sound, bell, horn, and movement. I used an old DC power pack to provide voltage. One thing I will do differently next time is wire size, I’m using 22AWG for power and 26AWG for everything else, this engine is too small for these wire sizes. I’ve included a video, sorry for the poor quality.

For anything that the Blunami can handle, #28 wire will be sufficient, you can get some with fairly thin insulation that makes it much easier to hide it.  #22 is hopeless overkill!

Finally had a chance to continue working on the engine! I feel I’ve made a lot of progress, though all of you following will be the judge. I purchased some JST 1.25mm 2P wires and some JST 1.5mm in multiple configurations. I soldered the 1.25mm wires to three Blunami pig tails for front/rear lights (FX1 & 2) and I added a led to inside of the cab roof (FX5). I soldered a 1.5mm 3P wire to FX3 & 4 (brown & green) this is for the future electro coupler board.

First time power supplied engine fired up and app communicated. Had all sounds and proper movement under track power (Lionel Brick). Unfortunately I had no lighting, turns out you can’t rely on the Williams wire color scheme to be consistent. See video #1.                         After a few hours of troubleshooting this has been corrected. LESSON 1: Check any purchased JST wire sets for reversed wires. LESSON 2: Do not rely on the wire colors in a Williams engine to be consistent! I have three Williams Scale 44 Tonners, the wiring is different on all three. If you are using the existing lighting connectors, test them prior to installation against your Blunami, reverse pins were necessary (Very easy with a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver). Video #2 shows engine running at top speed (series wired) with proper lighting.

Question for those experienced with Blunami, how do I set the front headlight to dim when engine is in reverse? Assuming that is prototypical. Second question, how do I replicate Rule ?, have cab light (FX5) turn on when engine is idling?

Will figure out how to stuff all the wires inside the shell once I receive the currentkeeper.

With help from Ron045 I have both lights dimming when the engine is stopped! Now to figure out the cab light. I can get it to turn on with movement but can’t get it to turn on when stopped.

@Trainmstr posted:

Finally had a chance to continue working on the engine! I feel I’ve made a lot of progress, though all of you following will be the judge. I purchased some JST 1.25mm 2P wires and some JST 1.5mm in multiple configurations. I soldered the 1.25mm wires to three Blunami pig tails for front/rear lights (FX1 & 2) and I added a led to inside of the cab roof (FX5). I soldered a 1.5mm 3P wire to FX3 & 4 (brown & green) this is for the future electro coupler board.

First time power supplied engine fired up and app communicated. Had all sounds and proper movement under track power (Lionel Brick). Unfortunately I had no lighting, turns out you can’t rely on the Williams wire color scheme to be consistent. See video #1.                         After a few hours of troubleshooting this has been corrected. LESSON 1: Check any purchased JST wire sets for reversed wires. LESSON 2: Do not rely on the wire colors in a Williams engine to be consistent! I have three Williams Scale 44 Tonners, the wiring is different on all three. If you are using the existing lighting connectors, test them prior to installation against your Blunami, reverse pins were necessary (Very easy with a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver). Video #2 shows engine running at top speed (series wired) with proper lighting.

Question for those experienced with Blunami, how do I set the front headlight to dim when engine is in reverse? Assuming that is prototypical. Second question, how do I replicate Rule ?, have cab light (FX5) turn on when engine is idling?

Will figure out how to stuff all the wires inside the shell once I receive the currentkeeper.

Hey Len, is that my dead 44 ton? Wow, that amazing. You guys make this stuff look so easy!

@Trainmstr posted:

Thought I’d start a post of my conversion of a Williams Scale 44ton diesel to Blunani. Since I’m an electronics neophyte I thought others out there might learn from my experience and possibly increase the interest in what Blunami offers. This will take a few months to finish since I don’t have a dedicated work area, yet.

This Blunami conversion will use the track as a source for power as this engine will be given to my 5 yr old grandson. I have stripped the engine of the original electronics and cut off one of the standoffs to provide more room. The motors have been wired in series to slow the engine down a bit. I have completed and tested the build of the AC/DC conversion assy using the items suggested by KARLDL. The chassis was placed on the track, power was provided by a 180 brick and the DC/DC converter was adjusted to 18vlt output. I can tell already that wire management is going to an issue! Next step will be the testing of the Blunami 2200 module prior to adding connectors and installing. Does anyone know what tiny connector is used on the Williams speaker?

Phase-2 will be population and installation of the electronic coupler board designed by KARLDL and modifying Lionel trackmobile couplers to fit. Also thinking of adding lighting to the cab.

Up front I’d like to thank KARLDL, gunrunnerJohn, and Ron045 for providing technical data, component recommendations, and answering all my dumb questions!

I use these available on Amazon fro jumping and easy removable

Chanzon 120pcs 10cm 20cm 30cm Long Header Jumper Wire Dupont Cable Line Connector Assorted Kit Set (Male Female M-M M-F F-F) Solderless Multicolor for Arduino Raspberry pi Electronic Breadboard PCB

Scott,                                                             You give me too much credit, I’m still a neophyte (lower than whale crap at the bottom of the ocean) compared to KARLDL, gunrunnerJohn, and Ron045. If it wasn’t for  their help I wouldn’t be this far along.

Scott,                                                             No, this is not the engine you sent me, I haven’t touched yours since getting the truck reassembled. I want to do some additional inspection, one truck runs faster than the other though both are smooth and quiet.

For those using or interested in Blunami, I figured out the settings to get a cab light operating to Rule 17 (on when standing/stopped, off when movement in either direction). I set CV1.389 to 12 (activate while standing) and both CV57 (activates FX5 in forward) & CV58 (activates FX5 in reverse) to 63. Now whenever the engine is standing (stopped) the cab light comes on, as soon as there is movement in either direction the cab light goes out. This in concert with dimmed headlight and rear light when standing, looks great.

The CVs I changed are based on me using FX5 as my power source, if you use a different FX the CV#s will be different but the value entered will be the same.

The engine is finished. I installed the Currentkeeper and did some wiring housekeeping, I was able to get the shell on with no issues. I decided not to add electrocouplers to this iteration, they will go on the next 44 Tonner. Looking forward to seeing how my grandson & granddaughter like their new engine. Next Blunami conversion will be a Williams GP38, this will get electrocouplers and color changing classification lights. Here’s a short video of the 44 Ton on the rails, sounds are the proper twin 6 cylinder diesels, horn, and bell. Reminder, this is AC powered using a 180 brick.

That’s certainly an excellent job!  It runs and sounds great!

A warm welcome to the expanding list of Blunami users. Many of the new DCC functions you are planning will be quite useful. Be sure to post them. Any plans for battery power?

@Trainmstr.  You have done a fantastic job.

Although it has some advantages, I have no intentions of going deadrail. All of my trains will be given to my grandchildren and grand nieces & nephews. I presently see deadrail as a hobby for adults due to the cautions necessary for battery charging. By continuing to use track power (a/c) anything I convert will be transparent operationally to them. Right now, my grandchildren at 4 & 6  seamlessly switch from TMCC, DCS, and LionChief using the iPhone apps available.

The comments about precautions with battery power are appropriate and well taken. Battery companies are making significant improvements in battery safety and reliability, but we currently need to be careful.

@BOB WALKER posted:

The comments about precautions with battery power are appropriate and well taken. Battery companies are making significant improvements in battery safety and reliability, but we currently need to be careful.

There are far too many lithium ion battery fires each month.

https://www.firehouse.com/safe...ufacturing-operation

John

Nice!  You're ahead of me on the CVs, but I've spent the past 3 months ballasting track and troubleshooting turnout motors.  I'm still looking for the motor on that 44-tonner.  Is it integrated into the truck?  Or under the frame in the center?

Agree with you on the deadrail matter.  While there's much to like about deadrail, the battery safety and recharging discipline issues are there.  I may dabble in it, at some point.

Karl, the motors are imbedded in the trucks. There are three wires protruding from top of each truck, two are motor leads and one is center rail roller lead. Word of caution, don’t trust lead colors on anything in this engine, I have three (3) identical engines and the wiring is different in all of them. Test and identify as you go, it’ll save you a lot of head scratching.

The 44 Tonner now has Electrocouplers. I had made and then populated KarlDL’s pwb for Electrocouplers when using Blunami. I modified Lionel Trackmobile couplers to replicate the Williams design. Will post a how to if anyone is interested.

Karl, thank you for all your help and answering my endless texts!

Yes, please post your "How to."

Chuck

Another request on the coupler conversion. TIA!

Okay, give me a few days to write a script and post.

The coupler conversion has been posted.