Not sure what you mean about the "21 feet", but it sure looks good! 👍
Mark in Oregon
@Strummer posted:Not sure what you mean about the "21 feet", but it sure looks good! 👍
Mark in Oregon
Note that he said "...21 SCALE feet above the rail".
I agree, hand laid track is the preferred way to go.
Attachments
Images (1)
Ron H how did you do the turnouts
I went with the more recent Atlas 2 rail, year 2000+. John Sethian pretty much summed up the reasons. I think ME is a great product also which made it a difficult decision. Staggering rail joints would be a bit more challenging with ME, though, and staggering the joints won out for me. ME is a bit more stiff but really beautiful track, probably a bit nicer in appearance than Atlas.
Attachments
Images (1)
@AGHRMatt posted:I've been dabbling with 2-rail track and between the Atlas and Micro-Engineering, the Atlas track is easier to work with. Further, it has UV-treated ties for outdoor use. It's pricey, though. I have most of a box of Atlas and a bunch of MTH ScaleTrax n my garage right now -- the jury is out as to what's going on my layout. Place your bets now.
Matt
Before I "place my bet", 😁 I looked up MTH Scaletrax; I don't see it in a 2 rail option...so I'm gonna go with Atlas, if we're indeed talking 2 rail. 🙂
Mark in Oregon
Overhead rails off course, didn't think of it that way before. Ive cut my own sleepers, using scrap wood. I scored some sugar pine that fell of someones trailer on the way to the tip, that made a nice lot of sleepers, and another wood that a friend suggested was soft Meranti ( not the hard stuff ) this works as well as sugar pine, no splitting. Im guessing sugar pine is more common in the US. If you area a tight old Scotsman like me, you can use staples for spikes as well. I only know this because I thought , what would I do If I couldn't get Right of Way spikes, so I experamented. ( being all the way down under ) cTr....( Choose the Right )
@Strummer posted:Matt
Before I "place my bet", 😁 I looked up MTH Scaletrax; I don't see it in a 2 rail option...so I'm gonna go with Atlas, if we're indeed talking 2 rail. 🙂
Mark in Oregon
MTH Did offer 2-rail ScaleTrax (actually Lenz) for a while. My interest in ScaleTrax is that the sections have insulated running rails even on the turnouts (for the hybrid wiring I've been working on). With the flex, you can yank the center rail if you want to, but if I'm in that situation it would probably be Atlas 2-rail track to start with.
I also looked at using Atlas 2-rail track and adding a Code 55 roller rail for my 3-rail equipment, but I'd have to perform major surgery on turnouts. With the loss of MicroEngineering, though, this pretty much moots the discussion about 2-rail track absent Lenz (if they're still producing it),
@Stephen Bloy posted:I scored some sugar pine that fell of someones trailer on the way to the tip,
Stephen,
"Sugar pine that fell off of a trailer on the way to the tip," in most circumstances I would not believe for a moment, but seeing your wholesome image in your avatar, I'm not even going to question that. Great score!
Matt
So...I guess it's gonna be Atlas? 😁
At the risk of drifting too far afield, I think your idea of using code 55 center rail is a good approach...like Ron H (and possibly others) have done. Best of both worlds...
Mark in Oregon
@Dave Koehler posted:Ron H how did you do the turnouts
Dave, I'm glad you asked. I tried, but just wasn't successful. All my turnouts are atlas I think, and are on the other side of the around the wall layout.
They are heavily ballasted and look pretty good. I don't have any pictures though. Maybe tomorrow.
Christopher I assure you I found It mangled on the side of the road, ( a fortuitous happen stance for me ) on the way to our tip, It seemed to have been used in some sort of construction, and was painted, not the usual construction pine. It took some work to slice it up in my small bench saw, but certainly worth the effort. Ive tried regular pine but its to hard, it gets really expensive to import sleepers rail etc, you can double the price by the time it gets to Aussi Land, same goes for Locos etc. cTr....( Choose the Right )
I used ME uncoated Code 148. Excellent product. It flexed and bent without issues. Mine is nickel silver for better electrical conductivity at the far end of the layout. I used a Dremel to stagger the rail joints when I installed it. The rail web required painting after installation but that was easy to accomplish. The black tie Atlas seems to be modeled after European track. Where the tie plates are, there are what appear to be Pandrol rail clips. (My Atlas was older so I do not know what the present Atlas looks like.) I also used Atlas turnouts as they were the only ones I found that did not have to be assembled, and that was a mistake. I powered each frog with Atlas snap relays, and that was another mistake. These relays simply do not have the horsepower to handle momentary currents in the range of 2-3 amps, such as would occur when an incandescent lighted passenger train passes over the frog. They also are not good at handling 18VDC that is required to operate the MTH 2 rail locomotives in my collection using the DCS system, even though all of my MTH engines operate at less than one amp. (I do not use smoke.)
SZ, Too bad you didn't stop by my table at the Parma two rail show last week. I had a bunch of Atlas and Old Pullman flex track for sale at $10 a strip. I sold some black tie Atlas flex for $5 each. I also had some hand laid track on Homabed too. I was next to the guys with all the PRR diesels for sale. Doug
@pc cr ns yard rat posted:SZ, Too bad you didn't stop by my table at the Parma two rail show last week. I had a bunch of Atlas and Old Pullman flex track for sale at $10 a strip. I sold some black tie Atlas flex for $5 each. I also had some hand laid track on Homabed too. I was next to the guys with all the PRR diesels for sale. Doug
Doug,
I didn't stop because I wasn't shopping for any track -- as a typical [ I think ! ] 0 scaler who's been in 2R for over forty years, I have a good supply of track and turnouts under a table, even though the layout has been essentially built for some time. I was just regretting that I had not paid closer attention to the track prices to support my contention that buying track at 0 scale shows is as economical as hand laid, and your pricing you posted -- thank you -- does just that.
That fellow did have a nice looking selection of '628's, didn't he -- almost enough to recreate the outside tracks of the PRR / PC era Conway turntable....
With best regards,
SZ
Sooo....you want to hand lay some track.
Well here is a challenge, consider forming 7 tracks into 2 tracks using two 3 way switches, 1 not too obvious double crossover, 1 single slip switch and 2 double slip switches all on a gentle curve.
This is a reposting of a OGR forum shot of Roo's from his friend's layout:
The nicest example of 0 scale track work I have ever seen.
Attachments
Images (1)
I'll say! You did that?
@Tom Tee posted:Sooo....you want to hand lay some track.
Well here is a challenge, consider forming 7 tracks into 2 tracks using two 3 way switches, 1 not too obvious double crossover, 1 single slip switch and 2 double slip switches all on a gentle curve.
This is a reposting of a OGR forum shot of Roo's from his friend's layout:
The nicest example of 0 scale track work I have ever seen.
Or at the other end of the scale, you can hand lay some really rough track....
But contrary to how it looks, it does require as much - if not more - care in laying as smooth, level track, if it's going to be reliable & not derail stuff. And my rough track IS reliable, as this video shows.
Edit - the high speed run is a demonstration only. Normally trains crawl along at walking pace, swaying along as close to the prototype as I can get it.
Attachments
Images (1)
Original Gilbert American Flyer track with Gilberts rubber roadbed.
