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Wow. Two days in a row. That is good for me. I ran more wire so that the there is now transformer power to the barrier block for the top (3rd) level. I also ran leads from the middle level barrier block to the track. I hope to test the middle level soon. I am expanding DCS to the middle and upper levels of the layout that have, until now, been conventional transformer operation.

Patrick came over today. I thought we would tackle that pesky backdrop on the upper deck that we've been avoiding for weeks now, but we found a much more fun and interesting project to fill the afternoon.

 

The stub of track going to nowhere, in the lower left, is the Pig's Eye yard lead.

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The yard itself is the last section of the lower level that needed plywood.

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Now that I can see the exact space I have to work with, the track plan will follow quickly.

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There will be 5 or 6 tracks, and that point on the left will be part of the engine service facility.

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Tuesday we'll get the fiberboard down, that is if I don't work on it myself first. I have to say, this is the most excited I've been in months.

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Finally got to test the lights on the Coca-Cola truck. They work! I took some photos but the cable from the camera to the computer is not working, so the pictures will have to wait for a new cable. What a difference between the factory lighting affect and the new LEDs.

 

Next step is to place the truck on the layout.

Started to install MTH 30-9173 Southern Operating Watchman's Shanty.  Couldn't get the door to open.  Wasn't sure how to wire the middle two terminals (NO & NC).  Was trying to get it to work by having an open ground section of track and then closing the circuit when train wheels went over.

 

So, I tried to force door open.. Big mistake as the door hinge at bottom (just plastic) started to break.  I thought, no problem, I'll just use some CA glue.  Well the door pivots on a plastic shaft that is part of the door assembly.  That shaft glued right along in place.  Acetone did not help to release.  I tried to loosen shaft with pliers and now have pieces of broken shaft and no way to turn the gears.

 

Live and learn.

Originally Posted by TheDude23112:

Started to install MTH 30-9173 Southern Operating Watchman's Shanty.  Couldn't get the door to open.  Wasn't sure how to wire the middle two terminals (NO & NC).  Was trying to get it to work by having an open ground section of track and then closing the circuit when train wheels went over.

 

So, I tried to force door open.. Big mistake as the door hinge at bottom (just plastic) started to break.  I thought, no problem, I'll just use some CA glue.  Well the door pivots on a plastic shaft that is part of the door assembly.  That shaft glued right along in place.  Acetone did not help to release.  I tried to loosen shaft with pliers and now have pieces of broken shaft and no way to turn the gears.

 

Live and learn.

Hey "Dude" sorry to hear about your luck. FYI, the COM, NC, and NO on electrical stuff usually stands for Normally Closed, and Normally Open, and refers to position of a switch, and exactly when NC or NO is connected to the Com.,(C, Common, 3rd post etc.) The Com. is always used. 

NC= the NC is connected to COM (i.e. turned on, closed). Triggering the device, opens the circuit, disconnecting NC from COM. (turns device off).

NO= the circuit is normally open(off, disconnected) and triggering it closes the circuit turns it (on, connects it to COM.).

 

 

I didn't actually do anything on the layout, but I did support my LHS (AZ Train Depot) by purchasing an MTH DCS Remote with TIU today. I then added a temporary shelf to the legs on my table layout for it to rest on. I know this is overkill for my meager 6x8 single-train Christmas layout, but I wanted more control of the locomotive and now I have it. I'd connect it today yet, but I have to head to the airport to pick up my brother-in-law and then we're going out for some Mexican food, yum! I'll get it hooked up and set up tomorrow for sure.

Got some ground cover down behind the roundhouse. This had to be done before the RH goes any further because I had to sit on the RH floor to get back there.

 

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Worked on getting the stall beams with roll up doors fit into place. Wanted to get them glued in today but ran out of time. Gotta go ride on a real train for 10 hours now.

 

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Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:

Got some ground cover down behind the roundhouse. This had to be done before the RH goes any further because I had to sit on the RH floor to get back there.

 

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My compliments to ya'. If I had to sit on the roundhouse floor to get a job done, there wouldn't be any roundhouse left standing. Alas.

Frank-the-unthin

Last edited by Moonson
Originally Posted by Big_Boy_4005:

I got the first sheet of fiberboard down in the yard. Just 2 more and some filler scraps, and we'll be ready for track. I tried out those knife blades for the jigsaw. Where have those been all my life? NO MESS!!!!

Is this similar to what you are talking about?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T113A3-4-Inch-Knife-Jigsaw/dp/B001AHU5P2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383744376&sr=8-1&keywords=jigsaw+knife+blade

Originally Posted by DoubleDAZ:
Originally Posted by Big_Boy_4005:

I got the first sheet of fiberboard down in the yard. Just 2 more and some filler scraps, and we'll be ready for track. I tried out those knife blades for the jigsaw. Where have those been all my life? NO MESS!!!!

Is this similar to what you are talking about?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T113A3-4-Inch-Knife-Jigsaw/dp/B001AHU5P2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383744376&sr=8-1&keywords=jigsaw+knife+blade

Yeah Dave, I think that's exactly where I got them. They are the 113A, but the picture is wrong, because this blade has no teeth. I don't remember exactly where I heard about these, but it was somewhere here on the forum.

 

So, whoever said it, THANKS!

 

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Last edited by Big_Boy_4005

That's why I asked. There were several with and without teeth that were called "knife" blades. I'll check for the same ones you got. I tried the carving knife thing, but my blades are serrated and still made a mess and overheated.  This looks more like what you have, but the review says they received something different, so I'll check Lowe's and HD. When I searched for the 113a3's, the blade with teeth came up, so I think Amazon has the wrong pictures for some items. I think it'll be safer to see what I'm paying for in a local store.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T3...ef=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y

Last edited by DoubleDAZ

I connected my new TIU and programmed my Christmas 4-6-0 into the new remote. Having a lot of fun figuring things out. Next step will be to play with Record/Playback and get things ready for Thanksgiving visitors. The best part though was that the new tile we bought at Lowe's 2 weeks ago went on sale today and the refund paid for the Remote/TIU. How cool it that?

Originally Posted by DoubleDAZ:

That's why I asked. There were several with and without teeth that were called "knife" blades. I'll check for the same ones you got. I tried the carving knife thing, but my blades are serrated and still made a mess and overheated.  This looks more like what you have, but the review says they received something different, so I'll check Lowe's and HD. When I searched for the 113a3's, the blade with teeth came up, so I think Amazon has the wrong pictures for some items. I think it'll be safer to see what I'm paying for in a local store.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T3...ef=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y

My Menards didn't have them, and I didn't try running around to HD or Lowes. I think the difference between the 113A and the 313A is the length. The 113 is a 4" blade and the 313 is a 6".

 

The material I'm cutting is soft, but the blade does tend to over heat and dull quickly. I wonder if I could put a new edge on it with a stone.

 

I was downstairs cutting and fitting more fiberboard this morning. I just have a couple pieces left to cut, then it has to be glued and screwed. I plan to hit it again this evening.

Fixed a light in one of my houses and experimented with recording an operating session and running it for a friend who stopped by. Definitely need to learn how to heed the advice to remember exactly where it starts.

 

Oh, and based on the background in the photo in the post before this one, I decided I'm going to paint some sheets of 1" foam I have, so I can use them as a backdrop to hide the tools in our garage from visitors who are coming over on Thanksgiving.

Last edited by DoubleDAZ

Making about a 120 cantenary poll for the overhead wire system. Finally got a shipment of 1/16 brass wire for the cross arms. That's been holding me up. I did about 60 a few months ago. I'll try to finish this batch today. I now have enough wire to do about 80 additional poles if I need them. Hope that's enough, might order more wire to be on the safe side. Don

I did work on the layout 5 out of the last 6 days. I don't do much each session, but I am persistent. Patrick and I did the plywood for the yard on Monday, and I spent the rest of the week cutting, gluing and screwing down the fiberboard.

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When I was done with the fiberboard, I installed 4 ground throws. I use spikes to secure them to the ties, then I add 2 more spikes to serve as stops. This prevents the lever from being thrown too far, and shortening the life of the throw. I also add red and green paint for a simple position indicator.

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I think the next project is going to be clearing off and moving some shelving in order to make room for a permanent workbench. It will be nice to be organized.

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Don, what do you use at crossovers for cat; I've a double-crossover I'll need to do.   Does the Marklin crossover piece work?
 
Originally Posted by scale rail:

Making about a 120 cantenary poll for the overhead wire system. Finally got a shipment of 1/16 brass wire for the cross arms. That's been holding me up. I did about 60 a few months ago. I'll try to finish this batch today. I now have enough wire to do about 80 additional poles if I need them. Hope that's enough, might order more wire to be on the safe side. Don

 

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