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A while back I made the decision to illuminate all of my structures with 12V LED bulbs. I settled on using screw base units that were constructed with 6 LED's for 360* illumination.  I purchased some bulb sockets from a dealer at Allentown, the bulbs on eBay ( about 35 cents each)  and a bunch of small $1 full wave rectifier boards also via eBay. The boards were about 1/2" x 1" and contained 4 rectifiers, a filter capacitor and a tiny red low glow LED that shows operation. Figured that pure DC would give the best illumination and longevity for LEDS.

Here's what resulted. For certain the illumination was far brighter than small 12V bulbs would have provided but the color is a bright pure white light and not the soft glow of incandescent bulbs.  Painted the LED's with a small brush and Amber bulb dye and that softened the glow to a softer yellow and it now seems to blend in better with the 1950's theme of my layout. Was it all worth the work of soldering the rectifier boards in line using LED's for illumination and painting with bulb dye?  That's a tough call . Seeking opinions on your lighting methods?

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The smart decision was to go with 12V DC in the first place!  Tons of lighting options from the automotive world.

As GRJ suggests, take a look at 12V DC LED strips.  For building lighting it's hard to imagine a scenario where a screw-in/bayonet LED bulb would give a better modeling effect.  In other words a typical 12V LED screw-in/bayonet bulb might be, say, 1/4" to 1/2" diameter.  To scale (1:48), that would be a 12" to 24" diameter light bulb!  That would be quite the elephant-in-the-room so to speak.

If you need to pack more lighting into a small area you can double/triple up on LED strips running them side-by-side or you can buy 12V LED modules with multiple LEDs.  Here's a 12V module with 36 warm-white LEDs along with a typical 12V LED strip.  In both cases, the per-LED cost is, say, 2 or 3 cent each on eBay with free shipping from Asia.

12v led strip module

 

 

 

 

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  • 12v led strip module
gunrunnerjohn posted:

You can buy warm-white or even amber or yellow LED's or LED strips, no painting required.

Yes John, I realize that but the decision to go with soft white automotive LEDS was made a while back. Next time around I may buy amber LEDS  for interior structure lighting, but the tinting does allow for some unique possibilities. You can just tint  2-3 out of 6 LEDs on each bulb assembly for a different effect. Perhaps I am splitting hairs but that's the way I do things. Still undecided if I should continue to go with all LED's for lighting. LED's may outlast bulbs but I don't see that there is much if any power savings to be had. You really need that miniature AC/DC rectifier board so initial cost is more but replacement cost is about the same.  

Last edited by Dennis LaGrua

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