3R Blasphemy?

Sounds cool & interesting, ….it’s your railroad, your rules,……enjoy as you see fit,…

Pat

I think that you have a good plan.  It will be interesting to learn how your hand built switches work with 3-rail wheels.  I feel that battery power is the way to go for engines.  You avoid many electrical issues with batteries.  NH Joe

There is the HONGZ forum. Kind of a catch all. Your biggest worry will be the locomotive flanges you have collected.

I have some code 48 on my railroad and some locos thump the ties. No big deal, but something to consider.

@Ron H posted:

There is the HONGZ forum. Kind of a catch all. Your biggest worry will be the locomotive flanges you have collected.

I have some code 48 on my railroad and some locos thump the ties. No big deal, but something to consider.

Thank you very much for the warning!

In that case I need to buy a section of track and take a careful look before I go full speed ahead with this.  I actually own 2 Williams Brass Niagara's one 2R (item #6602) one 3R (item #5602).  The wheels on the tenders are noticeably different.  Of course the 3R has Blind Drives the 2R doesn't, but the flanged Driver heights are noticeable different.  Also the 2R has more piping detail, but no smoke unit.  I bought the 2R so I could run at the Kingston,NY Club.

@Ron H posted:

There is the HONGZ forum. Kind of a catch all. Your biggest worry will be the locomotive flanges you have collected.

I have some code 48 on my railroad and some locos thump the ties. No big deal, but something to consider.

Ron, did you mean to say code 48 or 148? Code 48 would be suitable for N gauge.

Pete

Follow your dream. However, me, i am tired of batteries. They either need recharging all the time or replaced. Yes lots of battery powered things are convenient but oh what a pain. 

@Norton posted:

Ron, did you mean to say code 48 or 148? Code 48 would be suitable for N gauge.

Pete

Yes, of course, 148, Duh me!

Jim you're setting yourself up for a lot of work!  I totally understand that real track has only 2 rails.  If you want that look, I would start with Ross or Atlas hi-rail track and remove the center rail.  Hand-laying track is tedious, and going down to Code 148 may get you into trouble with the flanges on 3R equipment.  Most of the loco wheels are pressed on, so it's not like you will easily be able to swap wheelsets.  Heck, you'll have to pull and press wheels just to turn down the flanges!  For most of us, 3-rail O is what it is.  Only a highly skilled few can make it into something it wasn't from the factory.

I like your idea of wireless control direct to the loco.  Given the availability issues with Legacy hardware and signal issues with DCS, it makes sense.  However-  if you don't want to mess with batteries, you could get many benefits of direct RC by installing a "helper circuit" to rectify and smooth AC track power to filtered DC.  The wireless receiver won't know or care whether the DC voltage comes from a battery or a rectifier circuit, as long as it's smooth and well-regulated.

If I decide to abandon Legacy and cash out (I probably won't because I have several), that's the way I would go.  My $.02.

@Jim 1939 posted:

Follow your dream. However, me, i am tired of batteries. They either need recharging all the time or replaced. Yes lots of battery powered things are convenient but oh what a pain.

not at all

Thank you to EVERYONE for the replies.  I truly am looking for input to "flaws" in my plan.

The issue of recharging batteries is understood, as I mentioned in the opening post I have RC Electric planes.  My concern was operating time per charge.  In a prior post guys that are using, quoted 3 hours as typical which I am fine with.  If other USERS think that is overly optimistic PLEASE let me know.  May put the battery in a "power car" (box car at the head end).  Down side is can't operate the loco alone in that case.

Hmmm, i took stock of things that need charging, cell phone, tablet, laptop, tools, flashlight, e bike, probably missed some.  My one deadrail loco works fine, looking fwd to converting a few more.  To date run time has never exceeded battery capacity,  down time is when it recharges so it appear to be a viable option.

@Ted S posted:

Jim you're setting yourself up for a lot of work!  I totally understand that real track has only 2 rails.  If you want that look, I would start with Ross or Atlas hi-rail track and remove the center rail.  Hand-laying track is tedious, and going down to Code 148 may get you into trouble with the flanges on 3R equipment.  Most of the loco wheels are pressed on, so it's not like you will easily be able to swap wheelsets.  Heck, you'll have to pull and press wheels just to turn down the flanges!  For most of us, 3-rail O is what it is.  Only a highly skilled few can make it into something it wasn't from the factory.

I like your idea of wireless control direct to the loco.  Given the availability issues with Legacy hardware and signal issues with DCS, it makes sense.  However-  if you don't want to mess with batteries, you could get many benefits of direct RC by installing a "helper circuit" to rectify and smooth AC track power to filtered DC.  The decoder doesn't care if the DC voltage comes from a battery or a rectifier circuit.

If I decide to abandon Legacy and cash out (I probably won't because I have several), that's the way I would go.  My $.02.

I need to clarify a few points (now realize I wasn't specific enough in my opening post).

I do NOT currently own Legacy or any other system.  My only investment to operate at this time has been (both) bought USED at local train shows:  An oval of Atlas O 3R track (no switches), a 1950's KW for $15 which needed some help so an additional $7.50 in parts.  So nothing to sell.  I plan to keep this for testing of new purchases, and operation of a few Prewar Lionel Items that have caught my eye.

I am planning on using Micro Engineering Code 148 Flex Track.  In HO I used Atlas Flex Track and Switches.  I found it was much better than using sectional track due to less joints.

The hand laying will ONLY be the switches.  I am doing this for 3 reasons: Cost of Atlas O Switches is astronomical, ability to build "ladder switches" for the yards, I can adjust the "guard rails" for big 3R flanges.

Thank you for your comments, they are what I am looking for, to avoid pitfalls.  If you still feel this plan is flawed please let me know.

I have moved this to the 2-rail forum because it is apparent that future posting by the OP is likely to be mostly 2-rail.  He has stated he will be converting to 2-rail thus it makes sense to discuss this here.

Jim, a lot of us run three rail because thats what we started out with, at least in O scale, and by the time high rail scale locomotives and rolling stock came along we were too heavily invested in trains and/or a layout.

Given that you are just starting out I would only suggest either converting or selling off your three rail equipment and just go with two rail. Not only will it save you a ton of work but look much better.

Dead rail is up to you though I am in the group that is tired if changing or recharging batteries. The fewer the better, but thats just me.

Having spent most of my time with trains in HO I agree hand laying track and building switches is not a big a deal also greatly improves appearance.

Good luck with any direction you decide to go.

Pete

There is no blasphemy in this hobby outside of those who prefer to focus on the negative aspects over the overwhelming benefits this hobby provides to all who partake.

Good luck with your adventure and keep up apprised of your progress!

@MainLine Steam posted:

Before entering this hobby, it is important to know I flew RC Planes and Helis, most electric powered.  I also was in HO all my life so like the Scale Look.

I have bought considerable 3R equipment in the last year and a half.  I have been purchasing used (15-35 years old) 3R Scale Sized (no additional details added) Locomotives and Freight Cars.  I have also bought K-Line Passenger cars 15" and 18".  The intention all along has been not just to collect them, but to build a layout and run them.

I have been struggling with the implementation of the layout and how to control the locomotives.  Most are conventional, a couple have QSI Sound, a couple have TMCC.

Anyhow I am NOW leaning toward Wireless RC Locomotive Control with batteries (Deadrail).  I am planning to convert the passenger car lighting to LED Tape Strips.  The cars will have wire "pigtails" installed.  The Baggage car will carry the battery to power the consist.  Center rollers will be removed from everything!

This will give me the ability to use 2R Code 148 Micro Engineering Track (very scale like) and way less expensive than 3R Atlas O, and even Gargraves.  I plan to hand-build the turnouts, which is WAY Easier with 2 rails than 3.

So am I Blasphemes?  Will I be banned from the Forum for this?  Do I post in 2R from now on?

There is still time to stop me at this point!  Please let me know if I need to wear an ankle bracelet!

Your comments "adhering to Forum rules" are welcomed and actually encouraged.

You bought them they re yours to enjoy.

@MainLine Steam posted:

Please let me know if I need to wear an ankle bracelet!

Only if it makes you feel better,

In the meantime, don't worry, be happy.

Jim

  Have fun in your endeavor.  I am also fairly new to deadrail/Battery Power. Charging batteries is no problem with me cleaning track and electrical problems with legacy remote control is. Since I have changed to deadrail I really enjoy running trains. Before it seemed that in the back of my mind in running legacy before I even turned the transformer on I was going to have an issue. The only problems I have with deadrail is operators error. The only thing that I wish is that I would have started my layout like you are doing , making changes to a layout can be messy and costly.  Have fun welcome to deadrail.

@MainLine Steam posted:

Anyhow I am NOW leaning toward Wireless RC Locomotive Control with batteries (Deadrail).  I am planning to convert the passenger car lighting to LED Tape Strips.  The cars will have wire "pigtails" installed.  The Baggage car will carry the battery to power the consist.  Center rollers will be removed from everything!

So am I Blasphemes?  Will I be banned from the Forum for this?  Do I post in 2R from now on?

They are your trains.  So long as they are not pre-1970 in LN condition then whether you convert them from 3 to 2, from 2 to 3, go battery or even live stream.  I am good with your choice so long as you don't look down your nose at those who chose to go a different route. Be sure to keep us updated on your progress.

I am looking forward to your idea for converting passenger car lighting to batteries.  I am 3 rail conventional, but I have been toying with the idea of doing something similar.  I thought perhaps have mated male and female mini plugs would make a good way of connecting up the power lines so they could easily be connected and disconnected.  At the moment though this is theoretical.