3rd Rail/Sunset heavyweight coupler replacement

John,

I just emailed you.

Ron

Why not post it here instead of privately? Others (including myself) would be interested in any information about it.

I can do that. Still have to wait for my wife.

Email sent John.

It is pretty straight forward.  The mounting holes are already there.  I don't have photos of the underside, but I will get some.  Here are the results though.

John, just making sure we are talking about the brass heavyweights. Not the the GGD cars   I have done both. The brass cars are pretty straightforward. I used 805 couplers and I don’t remember scrounging for screws. So I’m guessing they are 2mm. A thick shim will be needed for the correct height. If this is your first go round with Kadee’s. Or maybe your only one.  The height is important but not a deal breaker if you are converting cars that are the same and will only run with one another.
Problems. I run 072 180 degree turns with easements entering and exiting. Running from a piece of straight track right into an 072 curve chances are you will have derailments. Once the cars seem to settle into the curve. They should be fine.

The other issue. The body mounted couplers seem to have no issues coupled to an engine. On my RR they seem to have an issue with say a 60 ft. Baggage car with a factory claw coupler. The couplers will mate. Put a body mount on and your fine. Just make sure everything in the consist has Kadee’s. Or have a transition car. Claw on one end. Kadee on the other.

Kadee does make a longer shank coupler that will create more distance between the cars. With the 805’s the cars will be close together. They will look much better and the corners will get a little close on 072 curves but they will be fine.

I have a Brass Heavyweight Diner. It’s put away at the moment. But if you need pictures of the conversion I’ll take some.

Here is how I do mine. Same thing as GG1 above.  I shim for various manufacturers. The Kadee couple height tool is a must.

If you are doing a manufacturer that has a tang attached to the trucks, one must remove them. Unscrew or cut em off.

Best of luck to all of you wanting to make the change. Send me pictures of your successes.

Ron H

Fortunately, I have  broad 12 ft curves or broader so I haven't tested the smaller radius effects except, I guess turnouts which are also broad radius on my RR.

Further thinking about it, if you have tangs, maybe you can keep them. Perhaps someone else has experience. I don't.

I’m probably overthinking this as most don’t seem to have an issue.  The GGD cars a very easy to convert. I’m not a fan of how the vestibule mounts. 2 small screws 2 plastic pin like dowels grabbing holes in the roof. the coupler mounts to it. I had one car for whatever reason the vestibule started pulling away from the roof.  Put a string of these cars together and that’s a lot of strain on these parts. Seeing a thick shim is needed anyways. I just extended the shim so it bolts to the metal chassis on my recent conversions and the middle hole is tapped for a Kadee. Slowly going back and re doing my earlier ones.

@Dave_C posted:

I’m probably overthinking this as most don’t seem to have an issue.  The GGD cars a very easy to convert. I’m not a fan of how the vestibule mounts. 2 small screws 2 plastic pin like dowels grabbing holes in the roof. the coupler mounts to it. I had one car for whatever reason the vestibule started pulling away from the roof.  Put a string of these cars together and that’s a lot of strain on these parts. Seeing a thick shim is needed anyways. I just extended the shim so it bolts to the metal chassis on my recent conversions and the middle hole is tapped for a Kadee. Slowly going back and re doing my earlier ones.

That is very clever Dave.  I'm going to steal that idea! 

Thanks Johnathan, I bought a strip of aluminum from Home Depot. Pretty sure it’s 1/8 thick. Easy to work with and pretty cheap. The vestibule is offset a bit from the metal chassis. I tapped the metal chassis for a 2 56 screw and  threaded it down from the inside. Tightened it to the chassis and then secured it with a nut creating sort of a double nut which it would make it act like a stud. You can then shim the aluminum mount with a washer or 2 so it sits level.

I know in some situations on large layouts operators can pull a long string of these. Maybe my opinion. But once you add pickup rollers cars don’t roll quite as easy as maybe a 2 rail version. This gives a little added insurance and takes the stress off of the plastic parts.

@Dave_C posted:

Thanks Johnathan, I bought a strip of aluminum from Home Depot. Pretty sure it’s 1/8 thick. Easy to work with and pretty cheap. The vestibule is offset a bit from the metal chassis. I tapped the metal chassis for a 2 56 screw and  threaded it down from the inside. Tightened it to the chassis and then secured it with a nut creating sort of a double nut which it would make it act like a stud. You can then shim the aluminum mount with a washer or 2 so it sits level.

I know in some situations on large layouts operators can pull a long string of these. Maybe my opinion. But once you add pickup rollers cars don’t roll quite as easy as maybe a 2 rail version. This gives a little added insurance and takes the stress off of the plastic parts.

A majority of my GGD heavyweights are 2 rail, but still that vestibule design leaves a little to be desired.  Any insurance to keep that intact is good practice.  Most of my passenger trains tend to be 10-20 cars.