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I'm sure several of you have seen this awesome tutorial from Mike Reagan:

 

 

I just thought I'd add a few of my own notes and observations having just performed this on my Lionel 28052 Class A. This was exactly the type of locomotive this technique is aimed at - TMCC 1 locomotives with anemic fan-driven smoke units. In my case, my Class A didn't even put out smoke at all unless holding the boost button, which eventually charred the old wick. After performing the upgrade, here's some additional notes:

 

1. First and foremost, cut the new gasket hole larger than the diameter of the fan. The old hole was small enough to clear the fan blades on the inside perimeter, but cutting it larger so the rim sits on top of the fan blades themselves will cause the fan to bind. I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures to show what I mean more clearly, but the point is to remember to cut the new gasket hole larger than the diameter of the fan so that the blades spin clear of it. I spent an hour looking for pinched or broken wires until I figured this out.

 

2. Replacement wicks for Postwar locomotives also work. I just had to take several of them and wad them together to make it the same size as the old one. Since I am only here for the weekend from school I didn't have time to wait for the official one from Lionel.

 

3. JT's Megasteam further enhances the smoke output.

 

Now that the smoke unit was "breathing" far more freely than before, a solid stream of smoke now poured from the stack. Thanks again for that tutorial Mike!

 

 

 

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I have a similar situation with our Class A too Nick. Running at 20v gives decent output but I gather it's not recommended! The A is still one of my favorites. We just acquired the PRR T1 from the same year (2000) and it has surprisingly good smoke in density but the airflow must be somewhat restricted. When we have finally moved, I may have time to catch up on these and many other train projects...

 

Thanks for you informative post.

I did this to my TMCC engines as well. Besides cutting a larger hole in the gasket, you will also need to drill a larger hole in the PCB board but be very becareful of cutting the printed wires. If you only enlarge the gasket without boring the PCB, you will not see benefits. 

 

Also, i use a either pink or white fiberglass insulation as the batting and it worksextremely well and excellent value for the money. In fact, i just went into my attic and grab a handful!

Correct on the part about the PCB board. Since Mike demonstrates it in the video I just left that out of the original post.

 

On another semi-related note, be aware that these early Lionel articulated locos can be a bear to disassemble and reassemble. It took me about 2 hours to get mine back together without something binding the motor....

Originally Posted by Ansonnn:

 

 

Also, i use a either pink or white fiberglass insulation as the batting and it worksextremely well and excellent value for the money. In fact, i just went into my attic and grab a handful!

I would not recommend this, I tried it some time ago and the insulation burned right onto the resistor after one operating session. Fiberglass insulation is to fine and cannot stand up to the heat without quickly charring. I used lionels "pre cut" batting from their parts website. It has much larger fibers and holds up better and lasts much longer without becoming charred or burning to the resistor.

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