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The small transformer was provided with most K-Line starter sets.  It will run a small engine with 3 or 4 cars around a loop of track.  I wouldn't try to run large trains or passenger trains with lights with it.

I use my K-Line transformer at train shows to run a small engine test track.  It will run a Cab Forward back and forth without problems.  I also use one to power accessories under the Christmas tree and on my layout.  It will provide power for lights without issues.

NH Joe

Bob, this was made as a very basic NO frills, starter set transformer, which may account for the bargain price you paid. Williams always recommended a 90 watt transformer for proper sequencing of the electronic e-unit, so this transformer may not run the Williams Geep satisfactorily.

In the very beginning of my re-entry into the train hobby, I utilized this K-Line transformer. Yes, it does have a circuit breaker inside. It's a very low amp transformer. As I recall, I could run an MPC-era loco with it, but no extra illuminated cars without tripping the circuit breaker. As matter of fact, I recall trying to run two dual motored K-Line S-2's with it, and that tripped the transformer.

The one advantage of this transformer, is the low start up voltage, so you can run a K-Line DC motored engine slowly. On the other hand, the high voltage of the transformer will allow the loco to fly off the track.

Yes, the transformer would be useful for something like running a trolley car or a handcar. And you could certainly use it for accessories that might work better with a custom set voltage, versus the fixed voltage posts of a larger, more powerful transformer.

Last edited by brianel_k-lineguy

I never had any issue with that Bob. The only way you would have an issue is if you had accessories operating off an insulated rail. Even with that, you just have to be consistent with wiring from the transformer terminals. 

But again, the transformer isn't really powerful enough to power to power accessories along with an operating train. But maybe a trolley and a crossing gate or flashing gate crossing.

Bob,

Volt Amps is a strange way for K-Line to rate the amp.

Providing the maximum output is 18VAC RMS then the Current available would be 1.67 Amps.

If you feel the wires to the track getting warm you are probably pushing it.

I was looking at one the next size up for another forum member. I am waiting for him to get some trains running to test the breaker. I don't know what to expect from it, other than they are usually for transformer protection and not train protection.

Listen to the others and keep the load small.

Took myself back to school on this one, so, yes, for DC they are interchangeable and for AC... not exactly.  However when it comes to a max rating, yes, they are the same, as VA is still equal to maximum Watts.  VA is probably the better choice to use for all things in electric model trains as it gives us the information needed for wiring choices. In AC, actual Watts is the real power consumption and dissipation, and is only really of use for two things, calculating heat loss and billing for electricity actually used.  when it comes to the label on the box, there is no difference in the power output of a transformer with a max of 30 Watts, or one with a max of 30 VA.   the difference on our transformers are that the ones I see rate watts on the input side, and VA on the output side, so the VA rating gives a better picture of how much power can actually be put to the track.  for example a post-war ZW may consume up to 275 watts, but provide only something like 220 volt-amps on the output.  

Conclusion:  When you get down to it, not quite the same thing.  Watts are more useful on the wall plug side of things to measure cost of operation.  Volt-Amps are more useful on the hardware side to determine wire gauge, switch and relay contact capacity.  However when something gives a max rating there is no difference between Watts and Volt-amps.   

I think it would be nice for the manufacturers to rate our train transformers in both max watts on the input side and VA on the output, as having the input side information might be nice to keep folks from overloading a power strip or wall line.  

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